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Thanks Davie message on its way.

Cheers Johnny Still looking if anyone knows anyone

Anybody work for one of the windscreen companys or have a mate who is looking for a homer, and not one of the simpson's variety

Could also be crankshaft oil seal

No wasnt loganair before Manx one of the few that wasnt lol.

I suppose some of my posts may appear negative its genuinely not the intention. Certainly from my point of view I have been lucky in having good people around me to advise me and wanted to try and help stop what in my opinion, and it is only one opinion, may turn out to be things you will later change and incur expense in doing so. I try to do thing right the first time as the money invested in these cars is never recovered and the cost of changes soon add up. Specing a car for a season of hills and sprints only to find rule changes mean expense in adapting to fit rules is bad enough but having to redo something you have paid to have done is not a good scenario. As an analogy if you were building a house and had sub contracted the building work to a builder and decided to project manage it yourself. Would you simply give the builder the plans on day one and say, build me that and walk away until it was built. Live in the house and then discover, i don't like this or that and have to redo it.

Agree Colin. Your intercooler pipework is at the bottom because you havnt flipped it so the pipes are at the top but that has no bearing anyway on the outlet of the compressor. The coil pack and power steering resevoir are easy to relocate with zero performance issues. The compressor outlet pipework will have no"obvious issue" but there will be a penalty to pay.

Looking good some nice touches there. The only point I would make is I def wouldnt have routed the compressor outlet hose the way you have the sharp bend at the outlet is not the best idea. Think about what your actually trying to do with the air in the compressor stage and what a right angle like that will do. Thats the reason people have advised you to relocate your power steering resevoir to avoid the very scenario you now have.

Snap was with MANX at Glasgow Line and still there with Flybe.

I have a phase one set up so dont have the coil pack on top of the manifold. In my opinion you would be much better ditching the current coil set up and going to newage coil packs. It will save you space and will future proof things. As I said previously keeping your current power steering set up is going to cause you problems.

I was thinking about the wiring but as mentioned not difficult to adapt. The i/c pipework and proximity to the aux belt will be determined by how they mount the alternator and what size alternator is used. Just slacken the bolts on the compressor housing and rotate it but the fact you do not have a remote power steering reservoir makes the routing of the compressor outlet pipe work a bit more awkward. In my opinion you would have been better going with a new age power steering pump and reservoir. That way the pipework can route nicely under the inlet manifold. and then run between the manifold leg at the power steering pump. There are other ways of doing it such as over the top of the manifold but going under it gives the shortest route. I had my pipe running under the manifold ceramic coated.

I three options to try. 1. Give Ian godney a ring he may be able to help. http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/ 2. Give Alyn at AS Performance a ring he has just about everything for a subaru on the shelf you might get lucky http://asperformance.com/ 3. Try a wanted add on scoobynet.

Just looking at the last picture. The wedge that you have had welded onto the inlet manifold, is the throttle body angled downwards? It looks like it in the pic which might well give you an issue once you fit the alternator and fit the belt. It will depend on what size spacers you have used but looks to me like you have an issue when you fit your intercooler feed pipe to the throttle body. ICV?

that makes no sense when the item has to go from Dumfries to northern scotland.

Have you tried interparcel.com cant see them beong expensive to courier. I have sent R180 diffs for £20.

Mark do you work for flybe by any chance?

No worries that was from a manual I had for 2002 0n so prob accurate.

Pretty sure its 137Lb/ft for both rear disc and rear drum brake assemblies.

Give Alyn a ring at As Performance he will advise on best option and is always competative on price.

Message with you.

Will have a look over the weekend as I have a couple of 754VN1AA boxes and gear sets. What exactly do you need.

You would be better with 550's but to be honest in my opinion you should be looking at a mappable ECU as a matter of priority. I am assuming you are using the standard ECU, but have changed the downpipe, induction system etc etc but still using the standard ECU and map not the best idea. You should be able to pick up a TY754VN4AA box out of a blobeye WRX for around £300, poss another £100 for the diff at worst if you cant get it thrown in with the box. Clutch, might be worth looking at the ACT range from the states, they are getting good revues and work out fairly cheap. Other than that that its an uprated exceedy.

A TY754VN4AA for example should hold up ok at 300/300 it did for me with 400/400 on a 2.5 with a 20G, with standard RA engine, you would need a matching 3.54 rear diff which are cheap as all uk newage WRX's use this diff. I would advise changing to a mapable ecu cheapest options would be a Power FC or a SimTek. I am assuming you are still on the standard 16G which will give you just under 300/300 if mapped properly by the likes of Andy F. You may need to upgrade the injectors if you have standard fit items.

No idea why you would want to weld the bolt on just make sure its tight and it shouldnt come off. Never had an issue on my RA or road car neither have come off. If you weld it up you will not then be able to fit a wideband if you wanted to.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/O2-Lambda-Sensor-Bung-Plug-Bolt-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-/160645581606?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2567390b26