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More progress all be it slow. Managed to fit the solid shifter bush kit from SD Motorsports which should make a huge difference to the feel of the change on the 6 speed. I had previously tried a B&M quick shift and it was horrible so it came off straight away. Also had this arrived again from Steven - thanks appreciate all the help recently. And fitted The tatty bracket in the pic is for the downpipe its just hanging loose in the pic when tightened its well clear of the cradle. I test fitted the downpipe as it was custom made on the car but no clearance issues at all so all good. Made a start on the fabrication for the rear diff support so hopefully finish that tomorrow. Mocked up the engine bay fuel plumbing so will hopefully crack on with that over the weekend in between work. Once thats complete its a case of fitting all the ancillaries to the engine and start looking at the wiring.

Not managed much time on the car over the last week or so but got 3 full days now to get as much done as possible. Managed to get the fuel set up plumbed in at the rear and it seems to work well in terms of fit so that I can swap tanks without moving anything around. All the hose is teflon now so shouldnt have to do this again. few pics below with the small tank and slightly bigger tank. And the bigger tank Connections underneath to hard pipes. I have used three 8mm hard pipes, two for the supply and one return. Huge thanks to Alex from Torques for all the help with various bits, service well above and beyond - thanks. I have also sorted my prop issue by having the Universal Joint replaced at the diff end so its now a perfect fit for the 95mm flange. Very neat job and its a far better UJ than the standard items. The guy doing the job commented on how poor they were and how they have replaced a fair few on 6 speed props but not so many on the earlier 5 speed props. Also got my TGV deletes back and all cleaned up ready to fit a set of Carl Daveys billet rails. Plan for tomorrow, well today now, is mock up the engine ancillaries and inlet manifold and see what size spacers i can get away with as I am struggling to find a 20mm spacer anywhere. Also work out what fuel fittings and hose i need for the engine side as well as that hopefully start fabricating the rear diff mount.

Anyone on here handy with a mig?

take it across to Andy and get it mapped/checked.

Thanks Kenny how is yours going?

Lol thats if its ever finished.

If anyone is intersted in getting anything airbrushed onto any parts i.e cam covers rocker covers etc I really cant recommend Adam highly enough. His email address is t6customs@hotmail.co.uk if anyone is interested drop him mail.

well hopefully things will start moving forward a bit quicker from now.

Thanks appreciate the kind support, but not feeling that way at the minute.

Baz Pretty much as Peter said the choice of two pumps was mainly a result of not being able to find a single pump that would deliver what I want and be proven reliable. The cost of these pumps is also less than some of the single pumps out there and allows me to buy two and a spare and still make a saving. The downside of course is twice the number of filters and fittings so when it all adds up its close on price to initially buy but cheaper to have spares if that makes sense. The current draw is also a consideration, the obvious route would be a pair of 044's but the max current draw there could be as much as 31A for the pair the max current draw from the two 979's would be 20A so fair difference there. I have had to try and keep the total current which the car will use down as much as possible as that will affect the size and rating of alternator I need so again that was a deciding factor.

looks not to bad phil just bought it 3 months to late for some gucci parts i have sold.

Thanks guys appreciate the feedback. Baz once they get to the engine side then they will combine before feeding the fuel rails, pumps are bosch 979's which I chose due to flow and current parameters. In terms of the electrics the pumps will be seperate circuits.

Lottery numbers ? Sponsorship ? Joking aside thanks Peter

Baz I have decided to go with a twin pump set up so both tanks have twin outlets. I have a sytec pre pump filter which basically gives a degree of protection for the pump although the particle size of the filter is slightly larger than I wanted but the pumps will not exactly see huge miles so that will be fine, then there is the pump and then on the output of the pump is a fuelab filter which to be honest is more important hence the decent filter and proper element as that will be the protection for the injectors in particular and the engine side in general.

Well it’s been a few weeks since I updated the thread. I have made some progress but given the hours I have put in the car is nowhere near where it needs to be. Progress has been slow and very very frustrating; I have never come across so many compatibility issues as I have this year round. The engine is eventually in so I am in the process of mocking things up to see what has changed and try and work out what I need parts wise and what can be reused. I have been pleasantly surprised by how much bonnet clearance I have, this will allow me to raise the inlet manifold which helps with clearance of the turbo compressor output pipe work as it runs under the manifold. Also decided to uprate the engine mounts. Had been looking at these for a while so decided to get a set from Kev at Scoobyclinic. Very well made and should be a good bit stiffer than the hardrace ones, to be fair the hardrace ones are very good and for the limited time they were fitted they worked very well. I wont be using the 5 speed gearbox mount that came as part of the kit so will prob have it and the hardrace engine mounts for sale. I have also just about completed the fuel set up in the boot just got a couple of pipes to make up and then bolt everything down and that’s done. Will then look to sort the front. I have already fitted the hard pipes back in and have 3 of the 8mm pipes, 2 feeds one return. AN fittings also fitted to both ends of the hard pipes. All the pipework at the rear changed to Teflon. Big thanks to Alex from Torques for all his help wih the fuel side of things. Mock up with small tank And with the big tank Front suspension and brakes now complete, just new pads required and bleed the brakes. Rear suspension almost complete. Just need to sort out a rear diff carrier, which is causing an issue due to my inability to weld so that is becoming a stumbling block. I have hopefully sorted my prop issue by having a local company change the UJ at one end so should have that back on Tue, another expense I could have done without but hey there’s no legislating for Subaru's ability to change things from year to year. I also got lucky when I found Adam from T6 customs. http://www.t6customs.webeden.co.uk I asked Adam to airbrush a saltire onto my cam covers and was a happy bunny when these arrived the other day. The quality of the work is superb the pictures do not do the covers justice. Will get some more pics of these once they are on the car. Lots still to do before the car is anywhere neat ready so becoming concerned time wise. I have decided to give it another 2 weeks and then look to make a decision on the viability of getting the car out at all this year.

I would suggest you contact Alyn again and let him know what you were quoted for by Scoobyspares and double check exactly what Alyn quoted you for. I would be surprisd if he is dearer like for like.

Are you comparing like for like as it looks like your first quote is not for Brembo branded discs just an after market disc for Brembo's?

Unbolt the old caliper and leave the brake hose connected and prop it out the way, bolt the brembo onto the hub and fit the wheel to check clearance that way you will know for sure that you wont have any problems and you wont have broke into the system. Its fine everyone saying they will fit but no one has asked what the offset is compared to their own wheels, chances are they will fit but for the sake of 5 mins its worth checking.

I have always used PF in the past but after speaking to Alyn I may well be moving over to Pagid as they have some really good compounds at the minute.

I will need new pads for my AP's in the next couple of weeks, if you want I can ask Alyn if he is interested in running something.

Good luck with this Chris, you will be keeping Steve happy If you need a contact for some ID2000's let me know.

LOL you could say you made a small error in judgement lol.

Thanks appreciate the comments but way way behing where I had hoped to be but hey such is life. Next main items are to get the fuel instal done in the boot and get the engine in and start seeing what needs changed in terms of pipework. Neil message on its way.

No chance of making it unfortunately John just to much to do and not prepared to cut corners this time. Target now is Kames in May then Golspie in June.

Well it seems longer than 3 weeks since i have updated this although I feel as if its one step forward and 3 steps back at the minute. The cage is now in. Huge thanks to Kenny for a 14 hour stint welding the various brackets, of which there are many. I must admit to being very pleased with the way it has turned out. It is by no means a bolt in cage and there is a fair amount of work needed to mock up and weld the various brackets. The main floor brackets are pretty simple but the other ones for the roof bar and front leg section need to be spot on so it takes ages to measure, mark, bolt everything up, check again then remove and weld etc etc. The section that goes through to the strut top is very awkward as it involves bolting two brackets together one between the strut top and the bulknead and one in the wheel well, matching the holes up was a nightmare as was fitting the link bars through but in the end well worth while. The rear section is one piece and was NOT easy to get in the car so once in it didnt come out so we welded around it. At the same time the cage was going in it seemed logical to rub down and paint the inside to freshen it up. Nothing Gucci but functionally clean. Also plated over the holes left from the old cage. The one problem i didnt think about was the horizontal hole for the section mounted to the tunnel, it goes into a box section so I couldnt get to the back of it. If I had thought about it I would have just got kenny to weld the section on instead of leaving it as a bolt on. To get to the box section it meant taking the diff back out and removing the t-cradle and then cutting an acess hole to get a bolt through, ah well lesson learned but all done now and hole patched over. Well thats pretty much the progress. I had a look at the diff flange today before removing it and noticed the holes didnt line up with the prop, no problem thinks me its obviously the usual PCD problem, although I was a bit confused as this diff was used with a six speed box, anyway i think to myself I will just redrill it like I have done twice before with previous diffs. But after marking it up its now obvious that the diff flange is to small to allow the prop to fit so quick call to my advisor and yep there seems to be two sizes of diff flange and I need the bigger one no shocks there - deep joy so diff now needs to stay out until I can get a flange. I had also planned to fit a newage STI servo but after trying to fit that, it became obvious that square pegs do not fit in round holes so back on with the old servo. Anyone need a newage Blobeye STI servo and master cylinder lol. Well newage quick rack is fitted, column now mates with the rack and the steering wheel boss I have fits perfectly so just need a little welding to extend the mounting plate and its good to fit. Started mocking up the fuel set up in the boot which is proving to be a challenge as I want to be able to fit the pumps and flilters but have it all plumbed in such a way that i can swap the small tank and the large tank by only undoing the two feed unions and the return and vent. Think I have sussed it but it wont be as neat as I wanted and wont be symetrical but hey function over asthetics. Just need to get the post pump filters and I can make up the pipework and get this part finished. Few more whiteline goodies arrived, needed a new roll centre kit as the other set was tired and also needed new drop links because the arms I now have use a standard drop link, so not much suspension wise on the car now that isnt whiteline - thanks for the help with this Graeme. Few other bits arrived which will need sorting at some point including some weld in seat rails. Now that its out I am now looking at finding the best route, within time limits, to do away with the T-cradle for the rear diff. The main reason for this is to make some space to take a side exit exhaust out just where the t-cradle bolts to the chassis. I cant see any other easy route to getting an exhaust out the side. I had a look on the underside today at the possibilty of triangulating some roll cage tube across the chassis legs bit not convinced this is the best route. The other plan was to attach a couple of weld on saddle clamps to the roll cage. Need to find some use for the 18 metres of 38 x 2.5 MSA spec roll cage tube i have lol. Then drop two bars down to a form a new mount for the diff. I know this is how several others have done it so prob go with this route. Would be interested to see any pics of how others have done it tho. Had these arrive the other day but not sure when they will be used at this rate. And thats pretty much it, so way behind where i need to be but hey plodding on.