cusco kid

thanks m8 ,i spend a lot of time in preperation ,if its not geos way its no my way .thers a lot of money in her and i want it to be a good car .just the same as all my other rally cars have been

yeah my oldest lad is selling his car now he is a dad himself he has les time fo it now.

with the shell all painted inside, brake pipes run hyd hand brake all fitted master cylinder and both pedal boxes in place i will show some piccs of the engine work the old ra flywheel and clutch the headers removed some weight in these boys the new manifolds beside the old ones new clutch and flywheel fitted ,organic exedy kevin and gavin giving me a helping hand since fitting the engine in i have removed the old engine mounts and fitted group (A) mounts and g/box mount along with the whiteline g/box sandwitch plates the headers have been overwrapped in red for extra protection all air con parts have been removed inc evap from heater box and all pipes then GFB underdrive pullys fitted i have lots more to do ,and will post up soon more piccs here is some piccs of earlier progress cheers geo

hi tommo you need offset 53 to clear brembos

hi ritchie, the ideal set up for your car is 24mm rear and 22mm front. i take it they are both adj arb's if so try running the bars on the softest setting for road use. also have your geo set up checked. the arb's are there to increase roll stiffness and not to absorb shock which is the dampers and springs job. try a combination of adj tyre pressures and the geo set up and see how that goes. you have bought the front bar so you may as well use it. ( do you have an anti lift kit fitted?) by increasing the caster this may cure your problem. the prob might not be suspension! it could be worn ball joints worn,suspension bushes,worn track rod ends or steering rack bushes which will in turn effect steering geometry. geo

hi m8 standard ra type .my m8s car has been running for 8 months with no probs /inc track days geo

the car is an ra ,so we will be running hopefully 350 bhp with dccd lightned to the max .its going to be a fun track car and hillclimb car geo

tommo here is the answer you req if you look at a classic bottom steel arm the bracket on it is angled inward and has 2 lugs on it to support the alloy d/link bush. your sti alloy arm mounting bkt is streight. the d/link you have fitted is under stress at the top on to arb look at your own photos ,this puts the bushes under too much tension and they will fail .you need the rose joint type .the old units if standard were like mini track rod ends to take up the movement between arb and arm .the distance between arb and arm is greater than steel and arb thats why you need the correct type m8 geo

tommo thats the wrong type m8 they are for metal lower arms you need klc 39 bud geo

i have busy gathering bits for the track car ,here is the latest progress all the painting is done on the interior now ,i am fitting up the brake pipes ,most of them are aeroquip through the shell the connections cost an arm and a leg this is the bulkhead fitting under the master cylinder ,i have converted the brakes from diagonal split to front and rear so that a hydraluic hand brake can be used i am using a tilton valve to adjust brake pressure to the rear brakes as there are 4 pot 330mm type the two mounting bolts are magnesium, i am using these any where i can because of the weight saving ,10 times lighter than normal bolts this shows the algle that i have mounted the h/brabe still using the normal also the roll cage ready to go in soon its an omp bolt in type the crash bar sittin in place, its been beefed up to gain strength the 2 pedal boxes ready for fitting ,these have been modded for motorsport seam welded the 27mm rear whiteline arb and stout mount kit powdercoated in pink (sweetie) the rear track arms and drop links done in sti pink. the arms will be adjusted to give me about 3inches extra track width on the rear the next step is to fit the cage then dash then on to fuel system group a engine ang gearbox mounts to be fitted next i will post up more mods soon geo

hi m8 i have the same exhaust on my 08 sti 1) ask haward+ scott to give you there decible levels of manufacture 2) ask the traffic department to give you the adderess of local mot inspectors that can check with a decimeter to see if it complies with the law 3) if that fails use the old rally car trick bore a hole near the box on the exit pipe and stuff loads of wire wool up the pipes then use large split pins to stop wire wool from comming out ,after test remove pins ang blow the wool out when revving the motor .worked for me for years in rallying geo

hi m8 go for GFB best quality you can buy got them on all 6 of our cars geo

its just getting the time to get stuck in about it m8 hopefully it will be ready for the start of next year.

Hi guys, Dad has just let me read what was posted up about my new car. I absolutely love my scooby, it's by far the best car i have ever owned or driven. Thanks for the nice comments! As this is my first scooby i've still got alot to learn but with a dad who is a genius and two brothers keeping me right i'll get there in the end i'm sure. Hopefully i'll see some of you at the next meet. Cheers again Aileen

this is turning into falkirk cruise debating society(bored), leave the lassie to sort out her car herself .its nice to see a girl who knows what she wants. duncan at hyper tec will guide i am sure, and not steer her in the wrong direction .we are all modding junkies ,we all think we know best,some do some try, some better to keep their ideas to themselves. i have a daughter thats the same bugs the gonads off me. but i love all the same good on you honey geo

no p this is my daughters car m8 mary still using the new one to work geo

hi guys here are some piccs of J3 GEO .been busy of late had no time to do much in way of posting the track cars progress removed all the tar sound deadning from the car ,what a job that was reduced the weight by loads welded up the round plug holes in the rear floor for strength crossed braced the rear part of the cage cage plates welded in now painting completed it looks like this all parts have been powder coated or painted ,now for reassembly geo

this is aileen"s new car a 2.5 hawkeye with a few mods already pff 7 s in a new colour , carbon vents carbon grill carbon wing risers from the states big exhaust GFB blow off valve many mods being carried out whiteline front and rear anti roll bars 22mm 24mm alloy d/links w /line flat out springs -40mm w/line roll centre adj kit , bump steer mod steering rack bushes rear track arms and toe lock kit w/line poly xmember , and lock kit stout mount kit ,for rear arb w/line top mounts camber caster adjustment anti lift kit GFB blow off valve (FITTED under drive pully kit in red GFB short shift gearstick kit GFB atomic valve GFB turbo fuse and much more thanks to gavin at falkirk subaru for great deal, top guy

geo set up is limited to what it can do --to combat roll stiffness probs you need to increase bar size .manufactures can only allow so much adjustment to settings because of cost restraints /compromise . the only way to attain better performance is to fit high quality after market parts ----thats why most of you are doing it geo

the best set up is 22mm front arb 24mm rear arb alloy d/links f+rear anti lift kit poly steering rack bushes lowered w/line flat out springs ideal for road and track m8 geo

theres no such thing as annoyingly SAFE understeer - -understeer is the pits ,thats why we try to overcome it ,on nullify it geo

neil, 24mm front +22mm rear not a good combo the front bar should always be less stiff to allow grip . you have increased your front stiffness ,if 19mm front fitted before to 24mm your roll stiffness has increased by 155%, if 19 mm -22mm rear bar your rs inc by 80% the rule of thumb 2mm difference front to rear impreza small bar front large bar rear m8 geo

you dont req a wind back tool ,just push back with a screwdriver. you only req widd back tool for calipers with self adjusting hand brakes ie mondeo golf renanlt etc geo

im just kidding dude.