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I Bought An Impreza ! But Is It A Dog?


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Hello all

I am new to this site, just picked up MY96 classic import for £1400. I offered the guy £1500 but he gave me £100 off to get some road tax on his own accord (what a nice guy?).

i repair laptops for a living and am a novice with cars.

The guy who i got my impreza from in clydebank told me that the car had been sitting for 6 months and not driven, because it had some issues and he couldnt afford to sort them out. So now hes replaced the radiator, and turbo and something else that i cant remember to do with the radiator and turbo maybe air pump ? and that the radiator needs to be bled.

the problems with the car i can report so far are

1. the engine temperature goes up to near maximum and the check engine light comes on

2. steam seems to be coming out of the coolant lid and bubbling( passenger side at the very front of the car)

3. oil burning from the turbo area (the guy said it had just been changed and was burning off)

4. the breaks dont work very well and makes a horrible noise when slowing down, the guy said the back pads had just been done and gave me pads for the front. but the discs didnt look in great condition but i dont really know.

5. when i press the a/c button on the dash some loud noise comes from the engine area

6. the wiring for the passenger side headlight is dodgy and comes loose and the light goes out(same place as the coolant lid)

7. the spoiler break light isnt working right now and water is getting through into the boot.

I guess i need to bleed the radiator first. I read somewhere to turn the car on without the cap on, wait for it to bubble up or over and then top it up and close it ? and turn off the engine.

if anyone has any time to spare to give me some advice or help me out

thanks

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Listen bud, its a bit late to tell you that you should have checked this car over thoroughly, or got a Subaru enthusiast to look for the obvious things. You probably dont want to hear it so I think you should look at the car on the strength of how much its going to cost to repair. As stated above, first port of call, headgaskets. It looks very much like you have the full dead headgasket symptoms, and if it wasnt that way when you bought it, running it to full temp will have killed it. You are probably looking at around £800 to get it sorted, but dont scrimp on the repair or you will have compression problems etc. Ie. dont trust some backstreet garage to do it, get an expert to do it for a bit more cash.

Dont use the aircon until a mech can have a look, could be a simple fix.

Brakes sounds like a pad issue, but check the discs. They may be scored to hell, and be an MOT fail next time round. They dont have to be expensive.

Turbo oil drip. One for a mech to have a look at. Could possibly be dealt with when the engine is out for the headgaskets.

Headlamps. Get a mech to see where the problem is. Youll be in the garage already to sort all the above out.

Dont throw money at the coolant system buying new rads etc. Get an expert to look at it, do a sniffer test which detects exhaust fumes in the coolant system, do all the other checks that will prove its a headgasket. (I hope its not, but forewarned is forearmed)

Please dont think the Impreza is an unreliable car, it appears the last owner was the Josef Mengele of the automotive ownership game.

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Did you bleed the coolant system after he said it needed done? And I'd get the brakes done sharpish too.

Take it to a decent mechanic - it's a Japanese car so will be excellent underneath all the niggles if it was looked after prior to lying for 6 months - it will certainly need serviced though. And make sure you put in decent fuel - Shell V Power and octane booster would be good for it.

At least the guy was honest about the work needing done and you got it cheap. But it will cost to pit some things right.

Good luck and keep us posted. Don't be afraid to ask any questions (after using the search facility first).

Welcome to SIDC.

Brian.

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Doesn't sound too good, but symptoms are the head gaskets. So get that checked first with a leak test.

If the turbo has just been changed, it may be old oil that's spilt.

But on the top of the turbo is the oil "in". Easy to see if it's dripping. At the bottom of the turbo is the oil "out". Not so easy to see, but check the drain hose has been re-fitted properly.

For the brakes, a good clean and free off any bits thats sticky. Replace anythings that doesn't look safe.

For the air-con and spoiler, leave those just now. The above is much more important.

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thanks for all you replys, i contacted eaglesham subaru and spoke to chris there who i am going to take the car too to inspect and give me some advice.

sti_steve - i did give it a test drive but it was snowing heavily and i really didnt know what to look out/listen for, i looked around the bodywork and underneath and it seemed to be good so i took into consideration it may need a whole need engine + gearbox and exhaust etc. i researched on ebay and saw people were offering engines including fitting for around 1200. this is probably a very expensive way to do it, but it could be fun ? and im hoping to learn a few things before i spend real money on these things, i am niave but i will learn. hopefully

myles - all information/advice noted, after i hear back from chris i would be really interested to hear what you think i should do, eg resell car on ebay, take a little loss and a lesson and buy another better checked out one :thumbup: or replace all the parts which i prefer to do.

WRXMANIA - hey thank you for welcoming me to this community, i havent built up the courage to bleed the coolant system yet i was just going to leave it for the experts. my plan was to take a very slow and easy drive to eaglesham and see chris. i probably need to learn how to bled the radiator for future use so i will see if chris will do it there and then for me.

DR Motosport - thanks for the useful tip on the turbo, no doubt i will need to stop half way to eaglesham so i will look and see if the oil is coming from the top or bottom.

StewartyBoy - Im in southside in govanhill, i did some research on google and tried to work out which garage was best to send it to, i choose eagleshams after considering scottish subarus in old kilpatrick, ian grieves in falkirk (a bit too far away to get a taxi back from) and hypertech with the same problem. i can imagine i will probably use them all at some point. do you know of any others?

i will update you all when i know more, also pics of the beast to come

peace

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I've used Eaglesham in the past and very good reliable garage but being an approved servicing agent rates are more expensive. It would be worth sending Duncan at Hypertech an email detailing the problems and getting a rough idea of a price for the work.

When you bought the car did the guy say anything about the car being mapped (imports don't run properly on uk fuel). What other mods are on the car, decat, induction kit, etc. Also was the turbo a direct swap to match the original or is it different.

Sorry for all the questions, more info we have the better we can advise.

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Hpertech, as mentioned, are close enough and get a lot of positive feedback although I've not used them myself. If you motor is scrap they'd be able to source a secondhand replacement and fit it where as a main dealer would simply open up the parts book and you'd have to pay for a brand new one and all the other bits and bobs that go with it.

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Hpertech, as mentioned, are close enough and get a lot of positive feedback although I've not used them myself. If you motor is scrap they'd be able to source a secondhand replacement and fit it where as a main dealer would simply open up the parts book and you'd have to pay for a brand new one and all the other bits and bobs that go with it.

Extreme Motorsport in Whitburn, just off junction 4 of the M8, have a very good Subaru mechanic too.

Brian :thumbup:

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playsatan2 - thanks for the advice, could you suggest any?

cheers

Don't use eaglesham. They are ok for genuine parts but thats about it. The guys are sound but unfortunately they couldn't diagnose a knackered maf on my car which, if i didn't know myself something was wrong would have eventually killed my engine. It wasn't even hard to spot, massive stutter when coming on boost.

As Playsatan says Hypertech seem to get a good name.

Have you thought about cutting your losses with it and buying another? It may work out cheaper if you can find a decent classic. ( i might know of one aswell... :thumbup:)

Johnny

Edited by JohnnyR6
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:thumbup: -phoned them about core plug for me hard water pipe(one that runs under inlet manifold) and the feckers didn't have a clue....ended up that fasteq in cambuslang had right plug and knew straight away what i was on about.... SO CALLED SCOOBIE GARAGE :slap:
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Don't use eaglesham. They are ok for genuine parts but thats about it. The guys are sound but unfortunately they couldn't diagnose a knackered maf on my car which, if i didn't know myself something was wrong would have eventually killed my engine. It wasn't even hard to spot, massive stutter when coming on boost.

As Playsatan says Hypertech seem to get a good name.

Have you thought about cutting your losses with it and buying another? It may work out cheaper if you can find a decent classic. ( i might know of one aswell... ;))

Johnny

massive stutter when coming on boost??? mine does that...ie kangaroos when comin on boost when driving but not when stationary??? thinkin it was dirty boost solenoid...:thumbup:

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if i'm thread jacking i apologize...

mine is an r reg.... got green label maf......have noticed that when driving if i just plant the foot it kangaroos.....but if i go up the rev range progressively it builds boost pressure no probs.. even then it's not all the time it...

was thinking dirty boost solenoid and that this was causing the fluttering...

how do i test the MAF????

oh and no probs stewarty :thumbup:

Edited by Jon B
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i just tried to bleed the radiator, alot of air came out at first. did it for 20minutes and less and less air came out until at the end air would only come out if i revved hard. the temperature only went to half on the gauge as well. but i didnt drive it. i read somewhere it may take longer than 20minutes to bleed.

decided to go with everyones advice and bring the car to duncan at hypertech instead of eaglesham subaru the main dealer, doing that this afternoon, going to go via the back roads because i dont fancy having to pull over on the m8 in case anything bad happens.

will update you all after duncan has seen it.

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if i'm thread jacking i apologize...

mine is an r reg.... got green label maf......have noticed that when driving if i just plant the foot it kangaroos.....but if i go up the rev range progressively it builds boost pressure no probs.. even then it's not all the time it...

was thinking dirty boost solenoid and that this was causing the fluttering...

how do i test the MAF????

oh and no probs stewarty :)

From what i've read (many times) on the MAF sensor...

Start the car, let it run then disconnect/remove the MAF. If the engine dies instantly then your MAF is fine.

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:( did that and it died straight away......so cleaned my boost solenoid out with brake cleaner....hopefully she'll be acting like a scoob and not like a kangaroo now :)

can't test drive it as no tax :( and still waiting on logbook coming through :o

Edited by Jon B
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UPDATE. bloody battery went flat so couldnt bring it to hypertech, bought another one because couldnt get anyone to give me a jump and my bmw has the battery in the back.

when i tried to jump start off the new battery it sparked loads and the alarm went off constantly so i gave up and have arranged it to be towed to hypertech. the keyfob doesnt seem to work anymore now.

will update you when i know more.

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