AlanG

Welsho Why are you doing all this? If it's a road car but you do the odd track day, why bother? Go on track, have your fun and go home. If you're going to go down a route about being serious about competition, set the car up to suit the sport you want to participate in. Modifying what manufacturers spend millions developing and testing for durability and the key word safety, isn't to be disregarded, just to make a car look good and allowing you to play at pretend rally driver. Soz if that sounds nasty or a put down, we all love our mods and i'm not trying to demean your enthusiasm in any way, but in terms of safety, don't muck about with it. IIRC you had 3 bolts on your wheels at some point in the past ? Same thing. The manufacturer put 5 on there for a reason. don't accept anything less.

They will be a pain in the neck. It means you either have front seat occupants or rear! Not both!

You're going to use the seat belt clips in the rear... what are the rear occupants going to use?..

Don't recognise the discs John, what make are they?

As long as it can turn the rod adjuster it'll be fine. I think they're all much of a muchness? A bit of a pisser without one though..

You got a remote adjuster for the pedal box John?

They seem to be.

It *could* make difference. In Oz, credit card is king. For the majority of transactions, a UK debit card is not allowed. That's not to say you can't use your UK card over there, but only for withdrawing funds from an ATM. For Oz accounts, you can pay by debit card (called savings), credit card (preferred) or by cheque ( 2nd most popular method of payment), so if someone over here is trying to use your uk debit card for an aussie transaction, then more than likely it'll be refused.

"Ebay" link of sump looks fine though the item is "used". Remember, It's easy to paint a sump and make it look like new, so worth asking how old it is, or even find out how much they are new. You never, know, they might be quite cheap!

Hi Cal Are you able to do the work yourself? I not, it's no big deal for a garage to with the car on a ramp. And looking at your sump, yeah, i'd change it! From memory, those headers don't look like Gruppe-S to me, though it's been a long time since i had a set. The Gruppe-S should have their flange at the base of the up-pipe (not at the front like in that pic) and be a 2 bolt variety. They look un-equal to me.

Dodgy switch?

I don't understand why you keep on "feeding" companies like this, more so when you already know what they're like!

Give me an A.......?

Did Andy say there was a problem with the dump valve and suggest what to do to rectify?

trigger All you need to check on your own is if you have the coilpack on the centre of the inlet manifold the same as in the E-bay auction. If it is, then you can remove all the ancilleries and place straight in. You can always sell the ancilleries to reduce the cost you paid for the engine. If your coilpack isn't in the centre but to the side as seen on the pic seafar99 posted, then you can only use the block, but again, at least you can change over your own heads, inlet manifold etc onto your replacement engine and sell off the other heads etc to recoup some money and reduce your total outlay. At £800, you can still reduce this by selling off the excess parts. Btw, 400bhp from a VF22? La la land. One other thing to be aware of is that 98 was a transition year, whereby you could have had the ver4 stuff under the bonnet but the later white dials from the 99 on year.

I believe so.

I would reckon Irish Al means it's already got DOT 5.1, as it's easy for the uninitiated to assume there is only one type of DOT 5. If it is the case that it's 5.1, you don't need to do anything, unless the fluid has discoloured to a heavy golden or more worrying black colour, in which case it would be worthwhile flushing through with new fluid. DOT 5.1 is quite a clear fluid to begin with.

emoe is right, don't use DOT 5 in your system, though i suspect for different reasons. DOT 5 is a silicone based fluid whereas DOT3, DOT4 and DOT 5.1 are polyethylene glycol based fluid. If you use DOT 5 in a system which has 3, 4 or 5.1, then a reaction is likely to occur between the two types of fluid which causes solids to form. Obviously this isn't desireable and can cause braking problems. All polyethylene glycol fluids will absorb water to an extent from the atmosphere. DOT 5 does have an advantage over 3, 4 or 5.1 in that it doesn't attract water, but it's not worth the effort to change to this type of fluid. If you're going for DOT 5 make sure it says 5.1 on the container.

Sounds like it wasn't sitting square in the lathe when it was machined..

Sounds like the clutch face part of the flywheel was left rough Dave?

Just an addition, i should have said you don't actually have to take the bumper support out but some prefer to do it that way. The alternative is to remove the grille, headlamps and sidelights (doddle) and remove the plastic bumper retaining clips from the support panel.

£275 for a flywheel? Ouch! Didn't know they were that kind of price. Nah, better off spendin' £30-40 for a machine shop to lighten a std one!

Cheapest and most effective way is since the gearbox is coming out, get your own off the engine and have it skimmed. You can half the weight by lightening the std one from around 15Kg to 7.5Kg and it's got a clean surface for your clutch to boot. Any machine shop can do it easily enough and is probably the cheapest way to have a lightened flywheel.

You'll need to peel back the arch liner to get access to a self tapping screw at the top of the rear edge of the bumper each side (10mm spanner). There will be some body clips as well which need to come out. On the underside at the front there's two bolts which have very thin heads on them (17mm), these need to come out and if it's a '99 - '00 car, there is a bolt in the aperture in the centre of the bumper. After that, take out the (17mm iirc) bolts which you'll see if you open the bonnet and look down on to the chassis legs, this will allow you to pull out the bumper as it's attached to a bumper support panel. You should be able to get access to anything else that needs doing. As for foglamps, you should be able to get access to the connections if you take the indicators out and fish around for the wiring, but you can leave that until the bumper is pulled out enough to expose what you need.

Or if you don't want to fork out for a torque wrench, use the spanner Subaru gave you in the toolkit and tighten the nuts up by hand and not your foot or with extension pieces slipped over the top of them. They are the length they are for a reason.