Mother Theresa

The TD turbos can take it no problems. API have removed the BOV on mine and I get the squirels all day long on lifting off. There are two things going on here. The sound is the impeller chopping up the air and it obviously loses speed as it does so but it does keep a positive pressure built up in the system for longer so hopefully what you lose in turbo speed you gain in the pressure remaining built up. The sound is great though and for now I will be keeping it....

How much were the head up displays, not seen them before?

Will do later, pm me your mobile number and i'll send it that way.

I have 225/40/18 and I did need to roll the rear arches but that is a Wagon which has a narrower track (so it goes faster....)

Am at work so can't measure it but it was £80 from API and the pipework for one of Harvey's FMICs goes past no problem.

Try scoobynet as well if you haven't already done so.

I have had a standard Evo battery put into mine so the FMIC piping can get past it.

I think you'd be lucky to get to 320bhp tbh. The turbo just won't flow that much air whatever you do to it. Your options on exhausts are generally a catted section (restrictive but quiet) (3 on a WRX, 2 on an STI), resonator section (not restrictive and quiet) and straight decat (not restrictive and noisy). Most aftermarket systems will offer you a choice of which bits to have. You have an up-pipe (engine to turbo with a "pre-cat" on your car), down pipe (turbo backwards (catted in your car)), mid section (not catted I think in yours but is in std WRX) and back box. All can be changed to your requirements.

Size Details: Width - 215 Profile - 45 Wheel Size - 17 Speed - V Load - 98 is what tyre shopper says.

Well most of us have upgraded them so like me can't read them off for you but I seem to remember they were 215/45/17s and any rating from W up should be fine.

Even if you are awash with dosh you can do so much better than PPP. Please take our advice (MY03 WRX here at about 400bhp), for £1500 you could have 350BHP if you wanted - and change for some decent springs.

My stepson got a 306 1.6 XS and it goes a treat. He bought it and insured it when 17 and still learning, group 5 and £900 TPF&T. It is also cool enough that his mates still don't mind being ferried around in it two years later. It handles well, as most pugs do, and when things go wrong they are not an arm and a leg.

Std pistons can take 1.3 bar apparently, I got a full set of forged jobbies for £400 so someone is being hopeful.

Tricky one this, the 555 type R is one of the better editions. It says 70,000km so previous owners have not bothered to get the clock converted - unless it is a fresh import. Who is the dealer - as some are not as well thought of as others?

£10k will buy you one hell of a good STI with prices dropping fast. If you can find an 05 one get that as you get DCCD (variable centre diff) and better suspension. Scoobies are very strong engine-wise so an unmolested one will serve you well. Nothing really goes wrong with them tbh. If it were me (with quite a lot of experience of modifying them) I would buy a well loved and highly modified car from here or scoobynet, look for someone with a lot of posts who has probably showered lots of love and money on their car and you could have a monster for similar money as modifications do not add any value to the car really so let them take the hit. Attend one of your local meetings and someone there is bound to know of a perfect example for sale.

I have written instructions with pictures if you want to PM me your e-mail - for an 03 model as well so no excuses to cock it up.

You get a fuel pump as part of the STI's PPP. A simple remap from any of the above will get you to 340ish. Power is limited by the turbo and your VF35 just can't get any more air through the system so more more power than that = bigger turbo.

I had anthracite tarmac-2 s and they looked excellent. They were quite light and rather mean against my silver paintwork. Midland Wheels Services are seriously cheap and not a million miles from you (only 5 miles from me). The anthracite is very close to being black with just a few metallic flecks being the difference.

Probably true - after you have done a remap.

You need to undo one caliper bolt completely, you can just slacken off the other and swing the caliper out of the way - it doesn't need to come off completely. Defo get some copper grease or you will curse yourself next time you do the job. If the discs are very warn then pulling back the discs may cause some fluid to come out of the top of your brake fluid reservoir so have something down to collect it, I would remove the lid so you don't get a jet coming out.

If Ian at Godspeed said they were fine then they without doubt will be. If they need a change already then you are a hooligan and will need the best you can get.

This is a huge can of worms. Most dealers seems to use mobil 1, a lot of people won't let anything other than silkolene fully synth in at £50 a pop. I doubt it matters for an unmodified scoob to be honest. Ditto discs and pads. For normal use the standard items should be fine. Regular spirited driving they might scare you so get something better - though hopefully at 6000 you won't be needing anything yet unless you are a complete hooligan. The pads will be the first to go and I would suggest Mintex 1144s or Ferodo DS2500 as the next step. There are many others out there and other people will suggest Pagids etc but I have experience of these two and they are excellent.

Servo won't make it spongy though. When bleeding the system did you do it by pumping the brake pedal? You can knacker the seals on the master cylinder if you depress the pedal all the way to the floor each pump. I learned this to my cost about 20 years ago on a Vauxhall Viva, and relearned it more recently as the same thing applies to scoobs too.

and there you have answered your own question - can't blame them for trying though. The rear shocks seem to be a weak point on newages, I assume they have it fixed on the new shape....

YOu can get a stone caught between dust shield and disc which causes a rattle, try reversing and it might fall out.