Big 'D'

Faulty knock sensor would only put the car into limp mode. Was that the only code? Cheers Iain

Fitted an Afterburner Vortex2 to my scoob so no more quiet scoob for me LOL, oh and its quicker now too Cheers Iain

Hi SP + Co I have some bad news, my other half has pointed out to me that this event is on the same day as my Christmas present that her parents got me LOL, I will be going to MK to have a go on the AIRKiX skydiving simulator thingy, I am really sorry but I will not be able to bring the Support Vehicle/trailer on the day is there anyone going to this event that has a towbar and could take the trailer? I feel really bad now Cheers Iain

2 Limos then It was a good Santa Pod style launch though Cheers Iain

Great to meet you Marc Must have been 2 bus lengths infront before you moved LOL, launch lessons it is then Cheers Iain

Post cat exhaust temp sensor, you do not need it and car can be run with it unplugged without CEL. Cheers Iain

Was nice to see you all tonight, sorry about all the turbo 'text' talk Ed My head hurts too after all the questions I got asked tonight, I had a great time though, it not very often I get the oportunity to bore people with turbo talk LOL. Cheers all Iain

Been a while mate, will be good to see you Cheers Iain

I am coming but might be closer to 8pm I will see you all there Cheers Iain

I am afraid the MAF will only show as a fault when it is dead, my one hickuped the other day and left no code then a day later the MAF went which left a code, lucky I had a spare with me though. There are so many causes of hesitation on the scoob it can be quite hard to diagnose them over the forum. Cheers Iain

Assuming that your car is a classic as you have checked the code if you disconnect the battery for about 1 hour and reconnect it then check for fault codes again, any previously stored fault codes should be gone Do you have a boost gauge fitted? If so where in the boost range (if in the boost range would you say it was chugging) Common causes for hesitation are MAF (on its way out, prior to failure, hesitation will be very random), o2 sensor not cycling correctly (hesitation quite constant), clogged boost control solenoid. (hesitation @ around 7 or 8 psi whilst boosting) Cheers Iain

See you all tomorrow Cheers Iain

The car will not start if the signal from the Crank or Camshaft sensors is not seen by the ECU, if the MAF is not working the car will start but will idle very roughly, very poor throttle responce and will cut out alot. (simple test is to disconnect the MAF and start the car) if the idle is better it is pretty certain the MAF is at fault but the ECU fault check that I posted earlier is the best way of finding out what is wrong with your engine when the CEL comes on. Cheers Iain

Have you checked your ECU for fault codes yet? The car can tell you what is wrong with it. How to read ECU Fault Codes What the codes mean. A simple one to try first would be to unplug your MAF sensor then start your car, if the car idles and revs better it is highly likely it is that, but to be 100% certain the ECU fault check will point you in the right direction. Cheers Iain

HAPPY BIRTHDAY All the best for today mate, have a good one Cheers Iain

Out of interest the V3/4 topmounts can be modified to fit the V1/2 scoob, the elbow that the DV fits to on the V3/4 intercooler needs to be removed and welded shut then a new port for the DV needs to be fitted/welded to the drivers side of the intercooler, its a bit of work to get it done but would give you a larger intercooler option. Cheers Iain

Hi all There will only be a 35 car stand at Japfest this year so the chances of us going as a region will be very slim to impossible due to the popularity of the event, however I do feel that it would still be a great day out for any individual member and would give you the opportunity to meet and mix with members from other regions within the SIDC. For full details of the event please click on this link..........Japfest 2009 Good luck getting a ticket, I will be trying for one Cheers Iain

Great news there mate Cheers Iain

Good luck with getting it sorted mate If the solenoid is not cycling or lazy (was an issue on the classic which caused lumpy + slow boost responce due to oil vapour getting into the solenoid from the breather system) switching maps would have no effect to the output of the turbo. Cheers Iain

Hi mate, you say it does not feel like it is giving you full boost, that may just be your problem, I am afraid that most of my knowledge is with the classic Impreza but this would be worth checking out, if your boost control solenoid is not working/cycling, it remains closed which allows your wastegate to open @ roughly 0.5 BAR (on the classic anyway) you will not get a Check Engine Light but your boost will be limited to 0.5 BAR, do you have a boost gauge? Cheers Iain

You have done the same as me Steve with the stealth fog in the reverse light Cheers Iain

Ah I see, all you need then is a power source at the front of the car, dash area (mount a fuse as close to the power source as possible, I am not sure off the top of my head what the rating is) run a wire to the switch from the power source then from the switch tho the +ive terminal on your light then all you need is an earth from your light to the body of the car Cheers Iain

Why can you live a little closer mate I am quite good with electrics lol, I could probably find the fault It would have been added as an extra after the car was imported so it is probably a poor/broken connection if it is not the bulb. Cheers Iain

Hi mate, you can pay whenever you want I need to confirm with Craigy the entrance fee, he was going to post it up closer to the time but I will ask for you If you want I could take payment next week at your meet Cheers Iain

Happy Birthday mate Cheers Iain