colin_ross

Tempted, could do with adding a few miles to my motor to get it run in asap.

No bolts on the my99 indicators (thats the sidelights), just one philips screw. Take it out and the indicator will just fall out. Twist out the bulb, twist it into the new one (orange bulb would be useful here) and screw it back on. My missus could do it.

Glad to hear you're back on the road Colin. Running a new motor in myself at the moment so I feel your pain. You're not going to stick to 3k for 1000 miles are you? I've been advised it's best to start stretching it after 4/500 odd miles and even start using some boost. Lets put it this way, when mines done 800 I'll be getting it mapped and that mean full throttle all the way to the red line [].

Don't AWD do a check FOC for members at open days (like on the 22nd April)? Or am I thinking of someone else?

Just post up when you're going and someone can tell you to follow them. The place is like Suchiehalll Street at the mo with so many Scooby owners going there. It's like a regional meet is going on 5 days a week.

BTW, Costco's crappy booklet that tells you what battery you need doesn't cover Subaru's. You need the 6PN.

Costco - Bosch silver top, £34 with 4yr warrenty

Sorry to hear about your bad luck Sandy, there's no good time for this sort of thing to happen. I drive an sti5 myself so have always been nervous of engine failure for a couple of reasons, 1 - it can't run on jap rated fuel and 2 they go through maf sensore like nothing else. The ecu is the same as the P1 but it has extra knock-monitoring built into it as Subaru knew that UK fuel would cause issues. I cannot understand why supplying an engine without chassis number would make it impossible to warrenty but what I'm not surprised about is they way they've treated you. In my experience as the owner of a grey import they really don't want the business. One garage local to me (Glasgow) made it as diffilcult as possible to order parts for a service and EVERY gasket they supplied was wrong. One word of caution though, dump valves and decats can make the situation worse. DV's have been proven to cause bore wash which in turn can lead to bearing failure. Decats lean out the mixture and can lead to burnt valve, holed pistons, you name it. If you are looking for suggestions on where to speak to I'll be the first to mention Greersport. Their quote will seem like half price after a dealer one. They can also supply and fit 2.2's or 2.5's. You could carry your turbo and most of everything else over if you wanted but a chat with them would be best as they can advise you on cost/specs etc. Oh yes, and they won't leave you high and dry if there's any problems. Best of luck.

You read my mind (bet it didn't take long).

Glad to hear you're nearly there Callum. How does the gearing feel on the road, too long (not likely), too short or juuuuuuuust right???

If you'd got a tug you could have told them you were simply bringing your own brand of Squirrel justice to the roads. How, you got a problem with that [:@][:@][:@]

Oil pressure at idle when cold should be 7 - 8 bar, when warm it may go down as low as 3

As long as you carry over your old inlet manifold and wiring you should be fine. The coil pack should fit version 6 heads ok (I think). Couly is running with my old version 5 engine in his version 2 and everything went together just fine. You'll also notice that you can't use all of the bellhousing bolts. Think the v6 engine has 6 but the 95 only has 4 but thats not a problem either, just do up the ones you can. What are you carrying over from your car, turbo, manifolds, etc?

Shock horror! JC reveals spec of his rear bulk head!!!! Ha haaa, the cats out the bag now.[]

It looks good in the pics guys but looks even better in the flesh. Nice to see someone break from the norm and push the boat out with something really different. Well done mate. One question though Callum, how long till you start phase 2?[]

Yup, that was TOTB last year. A few of us were down there when it happened and it was a crscking day. Should be even better this year.

I'm with you mate.

Holy flurkin schmit!!![] Did Bill empty all the blades out of your intercooler?

They'll probably be original.as any space saver won't fit over them. If you get a puncture on the front you're meant to put the saver on the back and take that good one and put it on the front. PITA though.

That seller has some well tasty stuff. Was lusting after a set of te37's he had for sale for ages. Don't forget to add the £266 import tax to the total will you. Still worth it though.

And how much do you use the car? If it's a daily driver you should be fine but my weekend warrior has to have a new battery every spring due to the tracker. With it lying unused for a few weeks the tracker completely drains and ruins the battery. It's a complete baw ache I can tell you.

Get it HPI'd yourself no matter what they tell you and an inspection would be a good idea too. Buyer beware springs to mind.

A boost controler is a cheap and effective way of bringing the boost is quicker and stronger for that wider spread you're after. Full decat is always a good way to go too.

Thats a good start Ed but what is your final goal? Are you looking for a fast road car or a big power drag style motor? It has been said many times before but if you are going to improve the breathing on the car you should realy fit a knocklink too in order to make sure you don't bring on any det. A remap would ensure this didn't happen though.

Is the car still standard? If you still have a top mounted intercooler they have been known to cause problems at high speeds. The air that is normally forced through the scoop gets blasted over it instead and you can suffer with high charge temp's causing det. Don't know if this can cause a flash of the CEL on a standard ecu but certainly can on the Apexi PFC ecu.