colin_ross

You need to cover the vent. Without the cover the maf connections get soaks and give the exact symptoms you've described. Does the car live outside? Might be something else but like I said start with the simple stuff.

Any smoke, rattles? Do you have the vent covers on?

I'd start with the basics. You've changed the plugs already, pull them out and have a look at them. Are they the normal coffee colour or sooted up or oily? If they are you may be over-fuelling which would point to a boost leak. If not check they're gapped correctly, 0.7mm if memory serves. Weak spark could be another cause. Being an rb5 you should have the single coil pack, easily swapped out. Borrow one to check and save you spending more cash. Another thing to consider is that the sti and the rb5 ecu's are not a direct replacement for ecu other. They'll have the same plugs but I'm certain that a couple of the sensors need to have their wires swapped over. A couple of minutes on google should confirm this. Also, list your mods. Not everything on the market performs as it should and someone may have had a similar issue. Keep at it mate. If you don't mind doing the basic stuff yourself I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it.

Just noticed you've actually rotated the manifold and not altered where the TB bolts one. It's certainly simpler but also moves the coil pack from the near side to the off side which will make i/c pipework more of a challenge.

Here's how we did mine. It's also a v5 manifold so has the same iscv set up but has the relocated power steering as Arch mentioned. Re the iscv - it's been a while since I looked into such things but I don't think a simple rewire is possible due to the way the v5 & 6 use a stepper motor.

How is Wilky these days?

I've only ever used dastek at dalgetty bay. What ever one you go to make sure you stick with them for comparable results.

Not looking to criticise mate. God knows I've made a few wrong turns along the way. Enjoy the build and keep the pictures coming.

Why ask for Andys advice (or ours for that matter) and then ignore it when it differs to what you're going to do anyway? I'll be interested to follow the progress and genuinely wish you well with it. I'm also sure it'll make plenty of power however the area under the graph will not make good reading for a fast road car. Don't be surprised if someone running 400/400 on a standard engine hoses you up a country road.

But I assume he chose this spec based on your brief? If so what did you tell him you wanted? It may seem that people or nit picking over this and that but to those of us who have been through it all before you spec seems at odds with your intended use and the parts used a bit of a miss match. There is no "right spec" only whats right for you. One last thing - you seen to answer questions with "I don't know, my builder chose it". It's fair enough that they should be advising you but you should chose based on their advice. That way you know what you're getting, why you're getting it and can make informed decisions.

You've missed out a hop Archie. The hard line should pass through the filter first. That may have been relocated so may be closer than the standard location. For simplicities sake I prefer to use the FPR to tee the rail return lines back together. That and the less joints you have the safer the fuel system will be. Oh, and because those unions are bloooooody expensive. The fuel system may be man enough for the power levels stated but it's too close for comfort for my liking. I'd twin pump it from the off as a second mapping session, to go to full power after upgrading the system, would cost the same as installing the proper one in the first place IYSWIM.

Need naked pictures before I can make any suggestions. PM if you prefer.

Would expect 600 plus on that spec. Best to chose a turbo size after you've chosen what the car will be used for (road, track, drag etc).

Well he's had plenty of practice kicking yours in over the years. Must be like a broken cat-flap by now.

And it's one you've earned over the years. Different strokes for different folks mate. Speaking of strokes.........have you worked your way round ALL of the gay bars over there yet? Heard you and the LHFOJ had hosed the place rotten.

Highs and lows mate - the sort of stuff that puts the car into a distant second place. You know me mate - you wont see a thing

Not bad mate. Have taken some time off from the car due to a mixture of personal reason. Been popping back in here and there to see whats happening and to make sure I don't get too out of date. Car is still tucked up in the garage and actually has a few new parts waiting to be fitted to it. Looking to have it out next year and ready to kick some arse (again). What have I missed anyway?

In my humble opinion if you're pushing an ej257 to the point where its needs to be pinned then you've got the wrong engine. Get a cdb, stroke it if you wish and build the rest of the engine to spec. While I'm making sweeping statements I'd also try and avoid linered blocks (sorry Callum ) as the cast in liners are far superior from a reliability point of view.

Shocking. I would say I hope your luck changes soon mate but let be honest - this has nothing to do with luck and everything to do with a conning barsteward. It's taken longer than expected, cost more than you wanted and been more trouble than you'd bargained for but it should all be worth it when it all comes together.

Thats your spec? If you can't be arsed to answer mate don't expect others to either.

Depends on a hundred different things. Whats your current spec?

Don't forget yoi left a bag of bits at my place - 'll sell you them back for a fiver

Nothing else? HGF not an issue ont the 33 at that level?

You want to see whats involved? I'll send you a link. Have your wallet ready.

Making 1000 bhp is easy. It's keeping the engine in one piece that's difficult.