scoobydude

I've done repeatable GPS verified 4.9s, and a never to be repeated 4.8 in my GB270. Mine is a 2.5 rather than a 2 ltr though. I could get about the same from my stock blobeye STI. The other Prodrive odds and sods on the GB270 mean the STI didn't have the upper hand in the handling stakes either. The STI would be into oversteer with much less provocation than the GB270 ever has

What an absolute prize dick. "I have a good job in IT", what at 17 years old, of course you do. " I was going to insure a VXR for 5000 quid", of course you were.

I'd say that winter tyres are a complete waste of time on most cars, in this country. It rarely gets cold enough for long enough to warrant winter tyres. However, with the scoob I will make an exception. Winter tyres fall apart quite quickly if the temperature isn't low enough, however i'd rather pay for more tyres than a bent scoob

It looks like it's got several bits from a UK300 on it. The front lights, the front splitter / driving lamps /bumper, and the rear wing are all off the UK300.

Welcome back / along I'm pretty sure the 2006 subframe (hawkeye) wont fit the 2004 (blobeye). The 2004 Uk STI would be fitted with a Traffic master( formerly Trackstar) Tracker as standard. Give Traffic master a bell with the vehicle details and they can run a check to see if it's still functioning. If it is you just need to pay the subs for the year and it's all good. I'd try ebay for the parts you're after as a first port of call. Good luck

Buy the STI, the CTR is a girls car. Except for when the VTEC kicks in, then they can actualy do time travel (so I've been informed by some monkey I know who bought one)

Hell yeah. If for no other reason, do it for this. My GB270 has been perfectly reliable thus far, except for the rear struts, which would have been more than the standard units. Also the steering racks / pumps have been known to give up as well. Mines a bit noisy right now, and I'm getting it checked out next week. Where are you getting a warranty for 375 quid?. The proven warranty is 600 quid on the turbo models, still worth it though IMHO.

I'd say it sounds like the engine mounts broken. It's not uncommon, and not a major issue if you get it sorted quickly.

the monitor tracker uses rf radio to tell the police where it is and will activate when the motion sensors detect movement without the keys or if tracker activate it if you inform them it's been nicked with the keys. The horizon system adds a gps positioner as well. There's a really cool new one as well which let's anyone authorized to see where the car is real time on an interactive rolling map on their computer. You can get an annual subscription at about 135 quid a year or pay about 300 to get a subscription which is for as long as you own the car. If you plan to keep the car for more than a couple of years that's the cheapest option.

The hatch sti ppp and 330 s both have major issues with the one size fits all prodrive maps. I personaly would go for the 330s and then make my first urgent job to get a custom remap.

I run 30 psi all round. It's easy to remember and does the trick

Regarding Trackers, UK STI's do have them as standard, but they are Trafficmaster (used to be Trackstar). I had a bit of an issue with them when my STI was towed after a prang last December. The WRX doesn't have a tracker as standard, but I had a Tracker Monitor fitted to my GB270. This is very good. When I had the bodyshop deliver it back to me (after someone drove into the back of it a set of lights), the Tracker people phoned me to ask if I knew it had been moved without the keys almost instantly.

I'd only use Tesco 99 if I needed to test a knock sensor. V-power is the only fuel I've used in my scoobs (optimax as it used to be known).

Yes you're right the UK models do get a STANDARD unequal length header (hence the burble). What I was trying to say in my post about headers is that if you're aiming for show over go and want a big noise get a better after market unequal length header and exhaust. If you're aiming for big power get an aftermarket equal length header and exhaust system. The post about removing the cats was just me not reading the OPs cars spec properly.

If you want a real "scooby rumble" sound, you'll have to get youself a decent unequal length header (manifold). You can then play around with different pipes to get the volume you want. If you do go down the unequal header route you will restrict yourself somewhat with any power increases you want because of the problems with EGT variations. It's all down to what you want to achieve really. If you want big power you'd be better off with an equal length header and sacrifice some of the sharpness of the exhaust note. If you want a nice loud sharp rumble and aren't after big power hikes, go for the unequal length number.

I agree the standard headlamps on the blobeyes are a bit gash, get some superbrights in there and jobs a goodudn. As for the exhaust, if you remove the precat and replace with a straight through pipe, then take out the scrubber and replace that with a straight through pipe, but leave the main cat in place, you'll pass the emissions test and free up some more horsepower. Add a free flow panel filter and have a rolling road / remap done (just to be on the safe side, it's probably wouldn't be an issue, but you never know), and you'll be a good few horses /Nm up for not much outlay.

If you fit an insurance approved tracker you will get cheaper insurance, which will bring the running costs down nicely. My Hawkeye has been very reliable thus far, with the exception of the damned rear struts / topmounts. It ceratinly isn't quiet, you can't hear yourself think when pressing on . I tend to steer clear of power hikes, I've witnessed too many newage scoob owners throwing money at tuning them up only to have them go bang because they didn't chuck enough money at them and were unrealistic about the consequence of trying to screw too much power out of an engine which really doesn't lend itself to big horsepower.

A couple of week ago I was talking to this chap about exactly this subject ( how to launch an AWD rally car) He told me that you want as much torque as you can to go where the weight transfers to. In this case, with a DCCD equiped scoob, an open diff (DCCD set to green square). This will give you approximately a 70:30 rear to front torque split. It's because the traction increases almost linearly with the applied weight . He said you should launch the car with the tourque split at 70:30 (the optimum for this type of car apparently) then roll to a locked diff as the car balances out, and then floor it. Just in case anyone doesn't know who this is, It's Rauno Aaltonen, otherwise known as the original fliyng Finn, and the guy credited with bringing left foot braking to rallying (otherwise known as the rally professor). He's a fascinating guy and very very clever. I also talked to this guy about the best way to do donuts That was a very interesting conversation. (It's Ken Block BTW)

Change the clutch fluid. That should sort it

I used to get this problem on my 05 STI. I had a suspension specialist put some extra positive camber on the fronts and a bit more negative camber on the rear and it sorted it a treat and as an added bonus the car handled much better on the twisties afterwards

You mis spelled ditchfinder

The hatch is an absolute abomination. It was built "to cost", and it shows. I drove a couple of hatch STIs and just couldn't believe I was in an impreza. The switchable ECU system is the only redeeming feature IMHO. Subaru tend to change their head honcho periodicaly, some have been more interested in producing the best car they can, ands some have been more interested in making as much money as they can. The hatch is being killed off thankfuly, and replaced with what promises to be a return to some kind of drivers car with reasonable build quality in the new MY2011 saloon. It's still slightly reasuring to know that Subaru act on their balls ups (albeit a bit more slowly than they used to).

if its the sti you have it fitted on there will be a lift reverse collar with a spring on top of it. Check that a bit hasn't snapped off the spring. If it's a wrx with no collar I don't have any suggestions.

Good decision. I spent the first week of the snow and ice spell ****ting bricks if I did more than 30 mph. Then I spent the last 2 weeks of the icy spell taking taxis and a 3 cylinder 1 litre vw polo courtesy car everywhere. Back on topic, nice car you have there OP. You must be chuffed to bits.

Those are bridgestone RE070s. They really don't work well in bad weather (as I found out to my cost last December)