emoe

see bold above Prices are hard mate, as they change a lot and you have to shop around. Ive been as honest as i can, i run the same car as you, a 98 MY and i am making 300bhp. Mine has a turbotronics Hybrid TD04, BIG top mount IC, modified airbox intake (better than a cone filter i promise you!! always try to keep your airbox!) HKS full 3" turbo back straight through exhaust, and water/methanol injection. all controlled by an Apexi Power FC.

It comes down to the fact that at that speed, the car is on teh cusp of being able to roll againt the wind resistance without needing more input from your right foot. So if you go a little slower, you need to press down a bit more to keep going, therefore the maf sensor reads changes in air volume, the throttle pos sensor notices changes and the ECU dumps fuel in to help. I notice it on my Apexi, i have airflow and injector duty showing and when cruising at 60 it shows something like 8.-% duty and 3400cfm, but at 85 it shows 5.-% duty and 3600cfm (or so) so it shows that even though its pulling a bit more air in at higher revs cruising, it needs less throttle input to keep stable so the fuel isnt needed so much! There ill take off my Mythbusters hat now!!

HOLY GOD!!! i am stealing that comment and using it in the WAR Thread between the men and women!!! A woman stated that so it has to be worth 1000 points!!

bedfordshire

I think you can just get standard discs on the back, you dont need tarox ones. Std ones will be much cheaper. pads id stick with those ferrodo ones. front pads id look at getting the pads out and matching them to the ones that come with AP 6 pots. Im sure they used a generic type of pad, or you may find they had 4 pads to each caliper. Basically remove the caliper, and using soapy hot water and an old toothbrush, scub the inside of the calipers good, then make sure the cylinders are all free. youll have to push them back in to service the pads anyway. If youre not competent to do it IN ANY WAY, or you are SLIGHTLY nervous, then get a pro to do it. brakes saves lives. Pay the money and have it done properly. Unless youre near me and ill do it with you for free.

I think youre sleeping with Mr Fuji!! he must be paying for your bedroom services with subarus!! all joking aside, you have some lovely scoobs mate!!

Get the Aero Flat blades mate, they are superb!! Also i use rain-x too and i have noticed a difference. The bugs dont get stuck as fast either with Rain-x in the windscreen bottle

thanks guys! Harvey has just spoken to me, he has a set of ported and wrapped headers and uppipe for my car, on exchange. So thats what going to happen!!! wheeeeeeee im all excited!!!

You have standard calipers on the rear (sliding calipers) so pads for those will be easy, also the disc itself will be simple to locate. The fronts are Bremsport 6 pots, so youll need to get the right size disc (i think they were 322mm but someone may correct me on that... please!) The pads will also need to be the correct fitment, and im not sure where to get them or what others fit. Im not all that up on Bremsport, They are definently better than the standard sliders or 4 pots, so the brake system is a good one you have. The rear discs LOOK like Tarox 40 groove, but to be honest, any disc will be better than worn, warped ones. Those calipers look a bit manky on the back, get yourself an old toothbrush and cleam them off good with some decent cleaner when you change the pads and disc. If you are changing the pads and discs yourself, touch my goat and ill talk you thorugh it. As i said before, make sure the fronts are working properly too, and if i were you i would change the brake fluid. nice car by the way, hope youre pleased with it.

OOOOOOOOOOOO

yep thanks mate, i emailed him after EuroSti touched my goat and told me about him. thanks guys!

how is that?? it looks like a homosexuals running shoe!!

A good mechanic will be able to tell if the cambelt is still good, as long as there isnt fractures from time on it then it will be ok. And as long as the pulleys and stuff isd good youll be ok As for the brakes, this is my advice. Pads are generally cheaper than your life. So i would replace all the pads regardless. Depending on what you want to spend depends on what you get. Theres plenty of choice and a lot is about personal preference. I stick to a fast road pad for the road, but lots of others use different pads. As for the rear brakes, i would certainly change both the discs and the pads, and have the calipers checked to make sure they are free, otherwise have them serviced. Same with the fronts. have them discs looked at, and if they are in any way worn change them. Personally id change them anyway. Did you find out what brakes are on the front? BREMBO are 4 pot with BREMBO written on them, have 2 bleed nipples and a balancer pipe from left to right cylinder blocks. Std Subaru 4 pots have either SUBARU written on them, cast in or sticker or may be plain, but are a solid 4 pot caliper, 1 bleed nipple. Std 2 pot sliders are firstly JUNK!! and are a carrier with a caliper sliding on two pins attached to the carrier. Youll need to know all that before you buy pads and discs for the front. Your rears i would imagine were standard. Why dont you take a photo of the front and rear brakes, up close , post it up and we can tell you what the brakes are

]Who ported your headers>? Id like to get mine done, but done want to do it myself.

Den, youre right it SHOULD be cleared up, problem is there is so much cloak and dagger with it its unreal. We are told when we compete to make sure the Comp insurance is valid to drive with the numbers showing. If we have an accident while involved in a rally or race, we are covered 3rd party. Now i have heard of someone that used their normal insurance, told the insurance company they were doing a charity roadrally as a support vehicle, but would be displaying NUMBERBOARDS on the side of the car, who informed them it was fine, but unfortunately had a prang. Now months after that incident, the insurance company wrote to him, told him that he was infact NOT insured as all policies state not for Racing hire etc etc. and the fact he was displaying Race Numbers the Underwriters pulled on it, So he was then sued by the third parties insurance. Im not saying if you have numbers youll be prosecuted, im just saying that with the numbers on there, the insurance companies and underwriters can and Sometmes WILL pull on you. Not only that you end up having the Law prosecute you too. In this day and age, its just not worth it is it? Just to have numbers?? Put the numberboards on the car, and buy magnetic numbers for the shows, take them off for driving every day. Better safe than sorry.

Wuz, the way you have yours piped is a good idea and safe too. I agree there isnt normally a problem, but a lot of unknowledgeable people will just leave the pipes there which is a hazzard. Like you say, as long as the vent is out of the way then its fine. But i still stand on the fact that unless youre racing, or you need that space, then whats the point? De-catting the car makes for some extra power so is worth the time, but the canister wont make a drop of difference surely?

You can remove your carbon canister, but id advise not doing so!! It traps the excess vented fumes from both the fuel tank and the system itself. 1: in doing so you may cause the ECU to wibble and it wont like that! 2: youll be venting fumes *they are flammable still!* into atmosphere right where you get some heat! 3: a small spark or some sort of iginition source will ignite the fumes vapour and poof!! so my advice? You can do it as we dont have them on the race cars. The vents need to be blocked under the bonnet and their scources vented to atomsphere OUTSIDE the car. Its just for emissions reasons, so its not necessary. But i do have to ask WHY do you want to remove it? It will NOT EVER make any more power, and the weight saving is in the Grammes, so unless you competeing in the top classes this seems a pointless excersize costing money and making work.

pump it up while your feet are stomping?

Thats not quite correct! Competition cars have competition Insurance, therefore are allowed to run with the numbers visible as some races are run on the public roads, (like road rallys, done at legal speeds, timings taken from ability to drive perfectly and mapread) If you have standard liability insurance and you have COMPETITION NUMBERPLATES with NUMBERS on the car, it can be construde that you are partaking in Racing (WHICH IT STATES ON YOUR INSURANCE YOU ARE NOT COVERED FOR) and therefore are technically running illegal. If you have an accident, i guarantee the insurance company will pull that and youll end up being fined. On top of that youll be prosecuted for not having insurance. My brother and i have raced since 1968 for him and 1981 for me, the law has ALWAYS been that and i doubt it will ever change. You can listen to all the stories you want, but dont say you were not warned!

Its the same up here. Mallory park now has a noise meter, so i cant run Wednesday practice with the race bike, and i cant go set up the Clio for the Cup races. have to go to Silverstone and pay silly money. Also the Motorcross track here in Beds has been closed due to some tit building a housing estate 1 mile away 2 years ago and the new residents saying it was too noisy to have that there!! The motorcross track has been open since 1993!!!!

Cambelt was changed 5k miles ago (but over 2 years ago ). CHECK TO MAKE SURE ITS STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND YOULL BE OK Is there a manual available that describes how to check the fluids?? im not very technical when it comes to cars but i have the patience and willingness to learn. Or am i best to take it to a subaru garage but i don't know if they would look at it due to the age or rape me on labour? PULL THE DIPSTICK ON THE GEARBOX (behind the intercooler) FRONT DIFF IS A SQUARE HEARD BOLT, REAR DIFF SAME LOL have a look at the steering wheel on a honda s2000 - then sit in my scooby ... feels like driving a bus lol but ill get used to it lol I reckon its because of the SRS airbag technology not being as compactable in 97 as it is nowadays. BUY LESS MAGNIFYING GLASSES How high should I be revving the engine? ( maximum power is at 5600? and trq at 4000rpm) AS HIGH AS REQUIRED TO GO ALONG AT PACE REQUIRED IN GEAR SELECTED!!!! ACTUALLY DONT REDLINE IT. DONT REV TOO HIGH TILL THE ENGINE IS CHECKED OUT ANYWAY Also how do I know when the engine has properly heated up? USUALLY WAIT TILL THE TEMP GUAGE SHOWS FULLY WARM (1/2 way up) BEFORE LETTING IT FULLY BOOST. when cooling down how do i know? I normally sit for 2-3 minutes to let it cool down. SUBARU MANUAL STATES 1 MINUTE TO COOL DOWN. GET A TURBO TIMER IF WORRIED. THEY WORK WELL. Would like at somepoint to go to knockhill - not far from me but never been to a trackday and dont want to break the car lol YOU CAN BREAK THE CAR ON THE BACK ROADS, SO DONT BLAME TEH TRACK!!! YOUR RIGHT FOOT IS THE KEY!!! ALSO DONT TRY TO IMPRESS ON THE TRACK. HAVE FUN AND DRIVE HOME SO YOU CAN COME BACK ANOTHER DAY. 23 YEARS OF RACING EXPERIENCE TALKING THERE!!!!

OIL is OIL is OIL. as long as its good quality and the right API then oil will work as oil should, Cheap oil is cheap oil and shouldnt be used for your lawnmower let alone a car. If you buy high quality well known manufacture oil then its fine. and POOH to all those who say MILLERS ONLY!!! gimmicks put their kids in college!!! Ive used silkolene, castrol, mobil and duckhams and had no problems. I wouldnt use tesco, halfords or john roberts cooing fat. Amen!!!

your ecu may control the fan by the temp sender in the block (just below the intake manifold in the middle at the front.) Id check to make sure, but sounds like thats right. However, if it were mine, i would make up an adapter and fit the temp sender in the pipework to the rad. Id much rather the fans run when the water is not being cooled at the rad than it getting too hot at the engine!!!

Subarus are incredibly reliable if looked after, serviced well and not thrashed to an inch of their life, they will take a fair beating and hold, but in the hands of an abuser, ANY car is unreliable. Your car (if its a UK spec) did come out with 217bhp, but if its only got 170 now then that engine it totally knackered!!! Id imagine youll see 200odd brake at the flywheel still if its still standard. The brakes you have on there (if they are BREMBO) were not standard as they should be Subaru 2 pot sliders. Some people uprated to 4 pot SUBARU discs and calipers (294mm from 275mm). If the brakes are pulling to one side, id have ALL of them checked out. Better safe than sorry especially on a car that has sat for a while. The steering wheel is not too big!! Please remove the binoculars before driving! When you take the car for this oil filter change, check when the cam belt was done. Change this for definite if you have no knowledge or its over 50k old. So if i were you before looking at upgrades on power, 1: check the brakes. Make sure front and rear brakes are in TOP form. (no point going faster if you cant stop, youll only kill yourself or someone else faster!) 2: Check the cambelt and make sure the engine is in good condition (worried about your claims of 170BHP!!) 3: change the brake fluid, and check the gearbox oil for discolouration and water ingress (because its stood) and front and rear diff fluids. 4: Drive the car for a couple of weeks before thinking about upgrades as you dont know the car, its stood a while and why spend £1000 on upgrades for the engine to develop a problem that then cant be traced because you messed with things beforehand. Patience in a virtue my friend! Anyway welcome to the club!!