emoe

Forget DOT 5 fluid!! It will absorb MUCH more water from the air than normal DOT4 and you WILL NOT SEE any difference in temps, unless youre running CERAMIC BRAKES which i HIGHLY doubt. The only reason to use DOT5 is for the Extreme heat produced with Ceramics or CONSTANT race use. Its a waste of money and youll end up changing it a lot, as the pedal will go spongy much quicker. So ill say again there IS NO DIFFERENCE in dot 4 and dot 5 that you will notice or gain from use on these cars.

Dont feel down mate! think of all the tax money youre making our wonderful Leaders in London!! You have to make a decision. Are you going to play for the rest of your life or are you going to earn some money to pay for the toys that you want to play wioth but then once you got them youre working too hard to pay for them to play with them. Your decision!! :D :) :lol:

if they are standard bulbs you need H4 hi lo beam

thats disc by what i can tell

your rear brakes are only doing 25-30%of your stopping power so you are fine uprating the fronts alone.

PMSL!!

OOo that sucks Stu!

Do you guys rate these over the Yokahama Pradas or the Toyo proxies? I fancy trying these out

Sounds to me like you need new discs too, they probably got hot and warped a bit, so change both and your problems will go away!!

if youre getting Squeal, its three things that can cause it. the old Slider type calipers are terrible for it! Firstly, clean out the calipers and pads well, as dust can cause it. Second, the pads are glazed causiing the squealing third, you have ridged discs and the edge is vibrating under braking. Putting an old set on may not actually fix the problem or give you any clues. Check the discs, if they are ok, then buy some decent Ferrodo pads, or EBC red stuff, and clean off the claipers really good

You running Toyo Proxies on that?

thing is, you could say anything and who can check? I still have Alistair Mcraes gloves from his Hyundai Rally days, (he used to come to MSD in milton Keynes years ago) but theyre mine now, wouldnt sell them anyway. My point is that can you PROVE that is Colins? I wouldnt trust the dealer, salesmen would say it was princess dianna's if it would make them more money. I sincerly hope that for the memory of Colin, and his family, that this guy is being honest, If not then i hope it doesnt sell. most of the people who are claiming on his name arent worthy of licking his boots!

If you get yourself a length of decent cable fitted with a 5amp fuse, then connect that inline with the battery cable, do the same with a sinlge piece of wire for the negative to an earth point (no need for a fuse on that one) you can then remove the battery terminals, and get the battery up on top of the intake manifold to remove the headlight cover. The fuse will let power get to the headunit keeping the settings you have, but allows you to remove the conection to the battery. If something does short out, the 5a fuse will blow, saving the headunit damage and ECU damage too. Make sure you use some electrical tape and tape up the battery connection after you take it off. hope that helps

More than likely the temprature of the air and item were not warm enough, and the fact there was moisture in the air made the matt finish. Always paint in a dry and warm area, and allow the item to warm up to the same temprature. If painting bu using a spray can, use very light coats, and plenty of them, laying on more pain each time. Each coat should only tack dry, not totally dry.

LOL thanks Welsho!! I do get out quite a bit, but ever since i was 8 i have raced, even throughout my Military Career (hic* can you have a career in the army nowadays?) Theres years of experience and knowledge locked up inside this head of mine, including the solution to rubiks cube, the answer to why the plughole makes a gurgling noise and the infinte question solution to the universe

To do this mate you really do need two people. I have only ever done one box on my own and its a killer!! The alignment tool is what you use to refit the clutch to the flywheel (which youll need if you want to change the flywheel) It basically makes sure the center plate is aligned in the pressure plate and aligned with the recess in the flywheel for the gearbox input shaft. If theyre not aligned youll spend all day trying to fit a square peg in a round hole!!!! :-)

yes the flywheel is straightforward. Remove the clutch, then use an impact gun REMEMBER THE THREADS ARE LEFT HAND!!! put the new bolts on with decent amount of Threadlock and tighten well. Refit the clutch with an alignment tool.

Well done mate. As far as im concerned i couldnt afford to buy a new car (even though id love one) because of the way this country is headed! BUT, you are right, you only live once, and if you want it then go for it. its a lovely car you have there, Well done!

Those bushes will get hot there!! We use a alloy heatshield with some heatwrap on the front, mounted to the down pipe on the race car, that seems to keep heat off our left hand bush and the gearchange bushes.

Welcome to SIDC!

Welsho, it really isnt that hard mate. Its really simple, just undo the things as i listed and put your new studs in. Any decent motor mechanic should charge no more than 2 hours MAXIMUM to do the job. I would think that you should be able to do it in a couple or three hours easily. Surely one of the guys up near you can sit in while you do it?

bit worried mate!! Youll need some hefty sockets and probably a good impact gun (1/2" id imagine) Youll need to remove the caliper, and the carrier (if its 4 pots, just the two bolts on the back of the caliper, then move it out the way. The disc will then come off, revealing a large castelised nut. Remove the TANG device or split pin whichever yours has and remove this nut. Its a 32mm i believe. Once that is off, remove the track rod end from the steering and the ARB drop link. then undo the bottom ball joint and use a spreader. Dont smack it as this will weaken the ball joint and youll end up having to replace it down the line, then remove the bolts and nuts holding the upper strut on the hub, abnd using a copper or hide mallet, knock the splined driveshaft through the hole in the hub as you pull towards you. Dont pull the hub off with the driveshaft or youll make a complete mess!!! refit is reverse of removal! easy innit!

Hey mate! this isnt really a hard job, but you can run into difficulty getting the old studs out. You will need to remove the hub as the studs go in from behind and they dont go in or out with the hub still fitted to the car. Once the hub is off, you should be able to douse them in some BREAK FREE (WD40 or equivalent) and leave them to soak for a while. Then you MIGHT have to apply a little heat if they are really stubborn. Get yourself a good 3lb hammer, and put the hub on an old socket that clears the back of the stud head. Then Hit the stud HARD once. it should come out the back. Once all are out, check the splines for damage in the hole, and clean out with some wd. Insert the new stud from behind (ooerrr missus!) and hit once hard with the mallet to seat. Refit the hub and fit the wheel. Tighten the wheel nuts up with a torque wrench first (DONT USE AN IMPACT YET!!!) then release the wehhl nuts again. Do this about three or four times just to make sure everything is seated well. Go for a drive 5-10 miles then recheck the nuts. Now youre all done!

If you want to clean something before painting then use PREPSOL from an autobody supply! dont use alcohol or brake cleaner as they leave a slight deposit afterwards that your tack rag needs to try and get off!!