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I agree with the FAQ info but that isnt the manufacturer recomended pressures.

Let us know what it was when you find out.

Should be inside the drivers door mate. Its 33psi front 28psi rear for unloaded (ie driver/driver and one passenger). I have made mine a tad more even with 30 rear and 33 front.

No matter how good they make the STI look.... have you seen the Evo X? Its gorgeous.... I always prefered the Impreza but the new EVO takes it by a mile. I can't afford either but If I had to choose I wouldn't even bother to test drive the Impreza. I just can't get past the looks, half of my love of Impreza's is the way they look and now thats gone its just the performance which can now be easily found elsewhere with better looks. Just my opinion of course.

Um just the running costs. Been an owner for a year and a half and its just the insurence, fuel and parts that get to me. But its all worth it and the fuel cost isnt half as bad as most people make out. Peformance wise I don't think I have found any weak points. Paint tends to be thin on the bonnet and the interior plastics scratch easily but hey it doesnt bother me.

No imports are not more robust the WRX engine is the same as the UK turbo just a different turbo (TD05 rather then TD04) and ecu. As i understand it this givens the WRX's more top end bhp but a bit more lag over the TD04 which spools up faster but runs out of puff quicker. WRX's are 240bhp, 260bhp and 280bhp depending on year. STI's are 280bhp but rev higher, have stronger internals, extra performance bits and different gearboxes. R's are two door versions and RA are stripped out basic rally one with short gearing. There are loads of other bits which vary from model to model but it all gets very complicated. This all reffers to classics.

What sort of import? WRX, STI? Type R? RA? What year? There are lots of differences but it depends what you want and how much money you have.

If you get one, get a good one! Cheap ones tend to leak and go wrong. I would reccomend the HKS SSQV it cant leak due to its design and doesnt need setting up at all just plug and play. They mainly just make a noise and make the car run very slightly rich on over run (giving a pop and bang or two). My car does seems to run slightly better with the SSQV fitted but I think it may be in my head and thanks to the noise...

Lol yet another caught out by Subaru hehe! It keeps the side lights on with the ignition off. I think it was a bit of an after thought on subaru's behalf.

98.9 for me

Oh god where did this get dragged up from? It might surprise you to learn that most police officers couldn’t care less about fog lights and generally just make a commet like "numpty" when they see the chavs and their corsas.... What information do you base that theory exactly? Have you compared statistics for the amount of various fixed penalty notices handed out? I think for your own safety you should give the AK47 a miss....

It depends also on how much they offer you for the car if its a write off.... My last car cost me £3000 and they gave me a sum total of £1100 when it was written off by some ###### in a van driving into the back of me at 30mph.

Gutted for you mate, I really am! The switch you speak of will be a fuel cut off switch but unfortunately I have no idea where they are on a scooby. Airbags can be had on ebay and i would have thought £200 would get you both. If the car isnt too damaged and its just cosmetic just fix it mate getting it wrote off will be loads of hassle unless its put down as the other driver completely at fault. Second hand bits im sure you could get lights, wing, bumper and airbags for £500 then you will need it painted up.

As has been said UK Turbos are 210-220bhp unless fitted with a PPP then thay are about 240bhp. WRX's started at 240bhp then rose to 260 and eventually 280 on the last classics. STI were always 280-300bhp but are very different its not just more power it a whole other car. A 1993 WRX is obviously an import and will have around 240bhp standard. A few things to watch out for: That qoute seems reasonable but is that definately a WRX you have been qouted for and not a UK Turbo. The WRX (being an import) is usually a good few £100 more to insure then a UK Turbo and a lot of companies wont insure you an import if your under 25. The other thing is has it been modded well? Bad mods good have trashed it to death and I would be uneasy about buying a moded car. These things are expensive to fix if they go pop so be carefull and I would personally never buy a car from a mate... lol.

Just for more info (as you said thanks for the lasst bit ): Prodrive are the tuning company that prepare the UK Subaru World Rally cars. They made a set of upgraded parts for imprezas that could be added as extras when you brought one new. As has been said this was a way of moddifying without ruining you warrenty with subaru. Prodrive did handling and styling packages for the impreza as well as the famous PPP. The PPP was basically a remapped ECU giving more bhp and torque as well as a slighty different exhaust setup and a different intercooler hose. Getting a PPP for a classic these days can be a pain as they are quite sought after. To be honest as the others have said you might as well just use another option as the warrenty is well out of date anyway. To get 280bhp from your car you will need to remove the cat from your exhuast to allow the gasses to flow away from the engine more freely and allow the turbo to boost more easily. You will also need to have your ECU remapped (for 98-00 cars) or for pre 98 your ecu cannot yet be remapped so you will need a new mappable ecu. A bigger fuel pump is also reccomended to stop it leaning out. Induction kit results are mixed at best and the standard airbox will do your fine right into the 300's so just get a green cotton pannel filter and you will be fine.

No worries just that I thought the wheels you have on there are UK ones and that the WRX had different ones Basically with classics the WRX was the standard Turbo Impreza in Japan. The Sti obviously the top of the range in japan. The Uk only got the Turbo 2000 and then later P1 as a special edition. The Uk turbo had between 210-220bhp as standard and the ones fitted with the Prodrive Performance Pack had around 240bhp. Jap WRX's had 240bhp to start with then it rose to 260bhp and eventually 280bhp later. The Sti always had around 280bhp+ but was a more hard core, quicker accelerating stronger better equipt 280bhp the the WRX. Hopefully that clears things up. When the Bugeye came out Subaru started calling its UK models WRX and STI to match japan and dropped the UK Turbo 2000 name.

For service parts mate, follow the service schedule in the handbook. If anything is over the time or mileage allowed then get it changed asap. As long as you stick to the book you should be fine and your car should last you a long time. As for brands I use Subaru OE parts for everything with the exception of using Green Cotton airfilters. I use GTX Magnatec for engine oil and the other fluids are a bit less vital brand wise. The most important things to be kept up with are the cambelt and oil as they will kill the car. The other bits will just give you a poorer performing car but can still lead to long term issues. Is yours deffinately a WRX? The pic looks like a UK Turbo.

To be honest I find the standard pads and discs are well upto the job on the road and looking at the service history for my car its now on 76,000miles and all around has only been changed twice so they do last. Groved discs will clean the pad surface off better and provide slighty more bite at the expense of a bit more noise and will wear your pads down quicker. Drilled will cool better but cheaper drilled discs can crack accross the drill holes. I had a bad experience with tarox G88 (fairly expensive) groved discs on my last car and since then only go for OE discs. I wouldn't go for the cheapest you can get as brakes and tyres are the bits that keep you where you want to be on the road and allow you to avoid accidents at the end of the day.... fairly important bits of kit.

My guess (and it is just a guess), is that you are boosting high enough to hit the fuel cut. Basically you have so much air going in the fueling cant keep up so the engine cuts fuel, to control the engine speed. Thats what I think is happening... As for the 95ron being ok and the optimax not being ok heres a theory: The 95 is allowing knock which is reducing the performance and therefore not reaching such a high boost level and therefore the lower boost is stoping the fuel cut from occuring? Of course all we can do is guess really you need somebody who knows what they are doing to check the car.

Cheers guys. Anymore for anymore?

It says it has a Prodive ECU which was a subaru fitted option called the Prodrive Performance Pack. This boosted power from 220bhp up to around 240bhp. It also boosted torque. It says prodrive ECU and remap... Im not sure if he means it just has the prodrive ecu (which is a remapped ecu) or if he means it had the ppp which has since been remapped again to get more power. You would need to ask him about that.

Standard UK fuel is 95ron 97, 98 and 99 are also available here. So in theory you can map and get more power as the higher ron will prevent det at higher boost. As you car is mapped for lower ron fuel it should be fine to run on our higher stuff. You just wont get the fuel performance benefits without a remap. Its when your car is mapped for higher ron and you use lower stuff that you have a problem.

My original headers are looking a tad untidy and rusty after 7 years of sitting under the engine. Im after a nice set of stainless ones to replace them but dont want equal length. I want to keep unequal lenght so i dont loose the burble and If possible just get a set that are the same as standard but in stainless. Basicall I want an OE set of headers in stainless steal. Does anybody know where I can get some? Also I have heard some of the joints used on header sets can break... is there a type i need to go for over another? Some appear to have flexible joints and others have overlapping solid ones.

As standard the wagons tend to be a tad slower but not by very much. There isn't much difference performance wise but the saloons are more popular hence the higher price.

Looks pretty reasonable to me but i cant see the miles listed on there.... It says the cambelt has been done at 85k so its obviously more then that. These cars can go on for a long time but i personally wouldn't buy a car with more then 90,000miles. Have a look around and test drive a few as there are loads for sale.