fmj

Hi nice to hear from an american impreza owner! I am no expert on this and I am sure somebody will come along soon with the right answer but I would imagine its the same sort of procedure as the may japanese imports people get brought into the uk. Left hand drive isn't really a problem as long as you can get used to driving on the otherside of the road with it. It will obviously make overtaking a bit more difficult. This might help you out: http://www.import-car.info/ In fact looking at that site its pretty good!

Im pretty sure there arn't any "old" style lights for them. They could be tinted I guess to reduce the lexus effect a bit.

Can't find them on the net but this is the number I phone to order paint 01202 761100. If i remember rightly the postage is the same for 1 can as it is for 2,3 or 4 cans etc... so to make it worth it i always order at least a couple of cans. Make sure you specify aerosol. Cheers, FMJ.

Excellent, thanks for that. Has anybody got any ideas about the other slots?

Dealers can get small cans i believe but they are fairly expensive for what they are. What ever you do, don't trust some muppet at halfords to mix some... they are usually way off. I have used a company in bournemouth called abbacus for years and they mix large sprays for about £10 a can. They do mail order over the phone and have been spot on with my last car and my scooby.

Just wondering if anybody can tell me what time the scooby's are going to be on track so i can make sure I don't miss them. Cheers, FMJ.

There is a website called brake parts or something similar (im sure google will find it). They sell calipre service kits. You may need a new set of seals or a new piston.

I wouldnt recomend it unless you want to get yourself in serious trouble. The speed guns always work and if they dont theres a reason. They will have your plate and they wont let it drop, they will either pursue you or you will be found at your home address or stopped via an ANPR. Don't bother. You are better off getting caught speeding!

Its a subaru only part mate. Either a main dealers for new ones or ebay/for sale forums/breakers for second hand. Jap performance parts are fairly good with this sort of thing. The only problem is that second hand ones may be near the end of there lives... New ones from subaru will be expensive but I would just bite the bullet and buy a new set for peace of mind.

This might sound silly but how long are these ribbons going to be? I can get some in town today but need to know how long people are going to be doing them, roughly.

No not noisy at all with the standard exhuast. If its had a stainless system fitted it may drone a bit. Yes from 97 or 98 onwards the interior is nicer with deeper far better seats, a leather (as opposed to nasty ribbed rubber) gear stick gaiter, metalic grey/silver plastics around the centre console and a generally more modern crisp look to it with a different layout including cup holders and more storage compartments. The 99-00 models also have better front brakes and a few other bits and bobs like crystal front lights and things.

Clutch slip? Boost Control issue? (boost solenoid) Maf sensor? (we blame the Maf for everything around here lol) Fueling issue? Is the fuel cutting? They would be my first thoughts after checking all boost pipes for leaks and splits and doing an ecu code check and reset.

6-7k should get you a mint low mileage (around 50,000 or less) 1999-2000 classic in either UK Turbo or Jap WRX. I spent £6,250 and got a mint UK turbo with 58,000 full subaru service history, one owner and with no mods. It will also get you a Jap STI but probably a slightly older model or a newer high miler. As for bug eyes its the same car really. As i see it: Pros for Classic: Better looks (sorry guys just my opinion) More raw performance feel (you feel more connected and the car feels a tad faster due to this even tho performance is the same) Pros for bug eye: Newer car Bit nicer interior A bit stiffer shell A bit more modern looking Other then all that read the FAQ as its full of info. If i were you I would go for the mint classic and make sure its a good one as for £7,000 it should be exactly what you want. Don't settle for anything your not happy with.

Is the standard oil cooler not where the oil filter screws on? with coolant pipes running to it? Perhaps my latter model is different...

Lol just the part mate... However they did say they do an exchange system and I asked for the full price rather then exchange. With an exchange it may be cheaper. I havent got one yet but was tempted by ebay....

Speaking from experience as I have just fitted an empty door to my car and refitted all the lock, handle, mirror, electric window + mech etc.... the window and mech is a pain in the ####! It will propably be the motor that has droped meaning there is no resistance holding the window up. The threads may have stripped but more likely the bolts have come undone. A few things to remeber: Becarefull with the glass, its very fragile. Lots of sharp bits inside the door and the scissor mechanism will take your fingers off or at least hurt a lot if you slip and it folds on you. Take some photos before you take any of the mech appart. Dont overtighten the bolts! do them until they stop and use thread lock. The threads are so thin they strip easily! The window will no come out easily unless you undo the height adjusters/stops and remove them. Good luck mate I have been arsing about with the adjustment on my drivers window and still cant get it lining up perfectly.

OE rad from subaru for my UK classic (V6) was £208. Pretty sure they are all the same... but not 100%.

Thats due to extra lag from the front mount... You may also have leaks in the pipe work (i know a few people have suffered from this). A front mount isnt really something you need to do unless you start uping boost a lot. As a stand alone mod you will lose power rather then gain it. I wouldn't have gone with the front mount until the rebuild had been done and have the intake spun around and turbo repositioned.

Personally I would go with at least a fuel pump before the map. And if you can stretch to it bigger injectors and a FPR. That should match your increase in air with a nice increase in fuel. Next up would be a different turbo... then its onto engine internals.

There is an old thread where it was tested back to back fitted and removed, i think removing it lost bhp. I would have thought that subaru who spent £100,000's on research and developement would have included it for a reason and if it gave a free increase in power they would have ditched it or redesigned it. Just my thoughts.

I would be fitting bigger injectors, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and the oil pump is a very good idea! If you want all those internal parts you are talking £1000's plus probably the same in labour. Its really not cheap. Plus if your doing all that then you really need to do a new clutch and i would seriously think about upgrading the brakes too. The thing with an engine rebuild is there are lots of bits you probably havent thought of like old knackered fittings, a new cambelt (maybe tensioners), all the gaskets, skimming of the heads etc...

I was under the impression that with classic's wrx's and uk turbos were the same internally (just different turbo and ecu/map combos). I know the STI is better ballanced with different internals but WRX and UK engine is surely the same.

Lumpy idle where the car would try to die and the revs would hunt. When you came up to a junction with the clutch down the car would try to stall unless you kept the revs up. Didnt show any codes but replacing it solved the problem.

Sorry to all those who have one of these already but I fitted mine last night and its excellent! I only have an afterburner vortex back box with a standard exhaust system, yet i am getting little pops and bangs just due to the blow off valve. I do accept driving through town i will look/sound like a chav but I couldnt care less, its great fun! Anybody thinking of getting one, get yourself onto Nengun performance and there are yours for around £130 delivered! Thats a saving of over £100 compared to most places (no i dont work for them). It took a couple of weeks to turn up but im very happy with the service and the product (got away with no import tax too).

Welcome to the wonderfull world of sensor problems mate. I would do an ECU check and i suspect its the idle control valve. When mine went it didnt show a code on the ECU bit i knew it was the problem. Did you do an ecu reset after fitting the new maf?