thewelsho

Cars looking fab mate. The wheel-colour and matching calipers is a nice touch. Wouldn't mind powerder coating my track-wheels in this colour (I have the same wheels) but £200 could be spent better elsewhere!

OK Thanks Andy. The guy from Subaru who brought up the error on his monitor thingy also cleared it off, do I still need to do the reset?

Yeah, if it holds up. Here's hoping...

Welcome mate, glad to have you!

:angry:

Thanks Colin, that looks like an option. I was able to get the tube out by gently screwing a self-tapping screw into the plastic which then allowed me to pull it out. I then cleaned both surfaces of the plastic and super glued it - madness I know! I have spent near enough 30 grand on the car and here I am using a £2 tube of glue to fix it. Anyway, did all that, fitted it back and took it for a blast. Roads where a bit too busy to keep the boot down but I did hit full boost a couple of times (near 1.5 bar). When I got back the pipe was still in place and the car is idling better than before. The hissing has stopped, but there are some other weird noises, I dunno maybe its jsut the alternator whizzing. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again!

Trying to do that now, it wont budge and I dont wnat to force it too much in case I damage it further. Edit: Twisted a self-tapper in and pulled it out, now to glue it!

Pics at your request Pete.

Well, I'm going to have to try! Trouble is getting access to it though and the broken part is still lodged inside the rubber hose.

The fault reported was "Running too lean" The probable cause is a broken attachment on the "Valve assembly duty solenoid" This is located under the alternator and connects by a rubber hose to the inlet manifold. The plastic extrusion onto which the rubber hose fits over, has snapped off meaning that the full item has to be replaced. The part is £200! I'll try to post pics later once the engine cools. Note to self: Modding is not for me!

Its the oil temps that's reading near 100 mate. Its actually about 95 as I wasn't reading the gauge properly!

It would be easy enough if it was a case of just popping the pipe back on, but the little hard-plastic extrusion has broken off, so the rubber hose has nothing to slot onto. I suppose that means that the plastic component that the pipe connects onto has to be replaced. So yes easy enough for a man that knows what's what, for the likes of me... its a not easy!

The pipe marked in the picture has broken off at the end under that little round thing. The top part connects to the inlet manifold. What is it for and coudl that be causing me a problem?

WOW! How will that ever stick to the raod with 1000bhp/ton!? And how much will it cost? Well out my budget, that's for sure!

The hissing seems to be coming from this litle bit. When I move it around the idle changes dramtically at times almost to the point of cutting out! What does this do? It pulls out with ease.

AndyF said I should fit one of these... hmmm I wonder.

Thanks again guys, I'm going all red in the face!

Ok thanks mate. NExt time I talk to Duncan I'll ask him what went in. Cheers!

I got a brand new MAF fitted about 4K miles ago, so not likely to be that, I don't think but who knows!? Erm, I don't think the batt was disconnected!

Colin No idea about the pump, it was fitted by Hypertech when I got my rebuild done. Yes, just using the water temp guage on the dash. It is the same all the time and has never moved since I got the car. John

Hi Folks. Car is MY06 WRX VF34 turbo and sports cat. Mapped to 340/400 My CEL has come on and I have no idea why. Here are some conditions that might give pointers to the issue: 1) Installed gauges 6 days ago and the Intercooler and alternator had to come out to get access to the sensors. 2) On idle the car is not idling smoothly, instead it fluctuates in that every half secnod or so the revs drop then back to 900 then drop then back to 900. At the point of drop the car shudders slighly as thought it is read to cut out. It doesn't do this all the time though. Also, when this happens, both the boost gauge and oil pressure guage drop and climb in time with the rev counter needle. 3) Crap fuel consumption (18 MPG) The car seems to drive fine albiet off-boost for the moment. Any ideas, does any one in the GLA area have a diagnostic connection thing that can tell me what the error code is? Thanks J EDIT: Just had a look under the bonnet and there sound like a hissing sound coming from around the alternator region (this is where the sensors for the guages attach), though hard to say. When I turn of the engine, the hissing is more noticable as it dies out.

Thanks for that. I run 15/50 and do have an uprated oil pump. I was perhaps misreadingthe gauge as I it is more accurate to say it is around 95 drgrees. I also have a STi V8 Intercooler as well and the water temps are as normal. I now have a CEL, but I am going to post about this on another thread! One day it will all just work without all these stupid issues.

Thanks man. I'm a bit worried by the temperature though. 100 degrees is my normal running temperature, which, going by what you said seems a bit too high

What should I be looking for in terms of levels? I have three gauges: 1) Oil Temperature: Once I get going under normal driving conditions, this goes to about 100 degrees. Is this about right? The red values start at 120 degrees and I am thinking that I could easily dip into that on the track. So what is a normal and safe reading and what does a "too-high" temperature indicate? 2) Boost gauge: This is straight forward enough. When I floor it, it hits peak boost around 1.3 - 1.4 bar. I'm pretty sure this is about right for my turbo (VF34). 3) Oil Pressure Gauge: This has a max level of 7 bar and when I first start the car and drive off, it sits at the max for a while before slowly coming down to about 3 bar. The needle goes up and down as I give it more gas. Why is oil pressure important and what sort of readings under what conditions show that there is a problem? Thanks!