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iainc

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Posts posted by iainc

  1. Post pics up its getting on my T**s now

    iv forgot how to do it :waving-santa: :santa: :D

    AHHHHHH

    Ummm... for me, all I do is when replying hit the "choose file" button towards the bottom right, then once picked, hit upload and that should be it.

    Will be different if you already have pics posted on the net elsewhere though (like photobucket or whatever).

    Saying that... I guess it depends on your permissions... recently found out that the RO's were getting a more restricted setup than the std users for CC'ing, etc :P

    Iain.

  2. correcto mundo ;)

    i'm totally hyper at the fact that we've finally got the print finished and how quickly they are selling! :boldblue:

    Cool... ordered mine before I'd replied the first time anyway, getting it sent to work so that theres always someone to be there to collect it (24/7 operation) and so I get a look at it quicker (don't have to wait to get home) :beer:

    You'll probably need to post the morn' saying they're sold out :D

  3. If I had the spare cash I'd buy a set of 18" OZ Ultralegerras for the summer and stick winter tread on the standard 17's... But spent too much on silly things with the car in recent months.. New front brakes being the main one...

    Maybe next year... If I survive the winter B) Just need to take it easy again...

    Aye... I've the original 17's off the STi sitting in the shed with barely legal RE070s on that I was planning on fitting winter tyres to... would hate to even think of paying for winter tyres on a 19" wheel :rotfl:

    :rotfl:

  4. WHat sort of prices are you seeing?.. LAst time I looked (last year) the prices were more than normal tyres!! DOn't need them to last long.. Possibly pick up some cheap wheels and slap some cheap chunky block tread onto them for a few weeks in winter!

    £100-130 a corner fully fitted (via mytyres.com) just for a rough guide. Winter tyres do work an awful lot better in the winter time than std tyres, chunky or not. We've a set of Michelon PA2's on the Leon and they work well (assuming you can get over the greater movement underneath compared to RE070s, etc).

    Bear in mind that from Oct-say about March, you can run the winter tyres and they'll last you a good few years... plus you'll not be using your "decent" summer tyres so they'll last longer too. I'd already have the ordered if it wasn't for the fact I've not long put a set of F1's on the 19's and just gave the scoob the 20k service too. Still reckon I'll probably put a set on though before the year is out.

  5. Same ere TBH.. WOuldnt mind so bad if I had a spare set of gravel/snow tyres.. The summer/wet tyres are useless in snow! Traction is good thanks to AWD just don't expect to turn into corners! My old Volvo 440 was grippy as hell in the snow! Not as good from a standing start but my god it gripped well in the white stuff! Impreza is in a different league! (a lower one B) )

    TBH, I was just having a look online at winter tyres. Had always planned on getting a set but never have, now that the car has a bit more power it's maybe more important as well.

    Was looking at possibly either the Nokian WR G2s or the Toyo Snowprox S 952. Although after a quick look it looks like maybe the Nokians are the better performing tyre.

  6. If you have a UK model you need electric adjustment lights.

    As I tell my kids... you would LIKE... not NEED. Just means on a UK car you can't use the adjusters in the car... you do NEED the manual ones for the imports though otherwise you'll not be able to adjust them at all B)

  7. Was enough snow here this morning, a good chunk of it had gone by the time I got home though... made going into work this morning "fun"... sideways to get onto the main road (at about 10mph at most B)) and then not much faster all the way in due to a queue of cars in front going at next to no speed at all.

  8. Dunno about the lights being a straight swap, but if your gonna get them then you'll need a V3 or later grill, the V2 one is for the lights you have just now :thumbup:

    I swapped the std (crap) lights on my old 94 wagon for a set of Morettes, which I'm sure were only made in the phase 2 form, fitted without any problems for me, albeit the bonnet/grill wasn't 100% due to the gap, the right grill would make a difference though (esp when you already have the newer bonnet).

  9. what ever you do keep away from the fibre glass ones, they tend to fall to pieces as soon as they see something comming towards them :thumbup:

    Dunno what the revolution splitter is made of that I've got on the STi but it went on fine and I've never had a problem with it yet. Guess a lot depends on how low your car is though.

  10. Must admit the bonnet did weigh a ton, but overall at the current money it isn't a bad buy.

    Where the wind deflectors are stuck on requires some paint and tidying up as well.

    Not sure about the box, and I'd also say that it was a UK block that had been stuck in so there is no way it was running 265bhp

    Mind you, if all you were after was a cheap Turbo, then I guess it sounds as good as any?

  11. didnt have time to look at black wrx mate. auctioneer couldnt find keys to open display cases. container outside which had me curious was apparently full of cleaning equipment and wasnt for sale pending claim to entitlement.

    Which black one was on the ramp then? Thought that was lot 7?

  12. *cough* theres rusty and theres never ending work keeping on top of it. wouldnt let you fire them up. oil looked better in my tractor than in a few and he must have had a thing for overfilling.

    So by Good/Bad/Ugly you all really meant that you guys looking were the good and the rest of the stock made up the remainder of that statement :thumbup:

  13. Yep, there was The Good, The Bad & The Ugly.

    The Good were outnumbered though!

    Just too many things different (some minor, some major) on various cars that didnt add up to original cars or even what some were claimed to be!

    Bear in mind as well that the initial page for the sale mentions "A Buyers Premium of 10% will apply to all lots sold" which could add on a wee bit once you are into the 1000's IYKWIM.

    So other than the black one, which is rusty underneath and needs an engine/work done, the rest of them are well dodgy looking/sounding then?

  14. Looks good, I was thinking about doing something like this using the Deltadash software and some of the customised gauge software, might do it next year using opensource once I get a dev. car.

    Yup. Was still wondering if it was as well getting a "normal" in car screen stereo and then hooking the in car PC up to that (using the aux port(s)) rather than simply a complete in car PC doing all of the work. It'd remove some of the requirements for an FM modulator (if you want to listen to the radio) and would speed up the starting times, etc.

    I'd really not need the sat nav stuff, 'cos I tend to know where I'm coming/going to and there are not too many speed camera locations on my normal routes either.

  15. Now thats something that I wasn't sure about and I think that you kinda answered my question there, its only basic ecu stuff that it can handle... now, this is something, I might have thought that it would have been capable of doing anything, as the system is Win XP based...? I guess its a lot down to ports also...? but then also, I know that you are running press pretty abnormal programs (being that most of is wouldn't touch that stuff...) that the normal driver like me wouldn't have much use for...

    But yeah, the backup, and the tidyness of the system is one of the things that draws me to it... and the price tag is not THAT unreasonable considering that you can buy a lot less for more money...

    Years ago I had a go coming up with something that I could use mainly for the audio side... never ever came up with a finalised solution to it, and certainly not one with a screen (you kinda needed to know what buttons to press IYKWIM :o).

    Ever since then I keep getting drawn back to it again, esp with so many advances in the screens (and the prices dropping, etc as well). I do fancy having a go at one again, esp after having a wee read of a few other forums today ;)

    I do think that having it being able to read the ODBII port while you are driving along would be quite cool too... less requirement for a heap of gauges dotted about the cabin as well.

    Al, you mentioned your existing ITX PC was a bit underpowered, what kind of spec is it?

    Iain.

  16. Cheers mate! Although may still need the wiring/relay for it.. Got bits lying around but maybe not enough... Would want to wire it in so they can be disabled if necesary.. i.e. "flashing" doesn't blind people during the day <_< Or maybe I do want that :mellow:

    I just had mine wired directly into the main beam the whole time... ran with the covers on unless I was going out in the dark so it never blinded people.

  17. yeah understandable... same reason i wanted the STi headlights to replace the WRX ones which were crap at full beam. STi ones are much better all round both dipped and full beam, but need more distance :rotfl:

    As mentioned, the PIAA ones are well worth it then... made a HUGE difference over the Morettes (which were a huge improvement over the std 94 lights).

  18. I had a set of PIAAs on the front of my old classic (plus Morettes 'cos the std lights were crap). Made quite a difference, although the main problem was always that it made the dipped beam look even worse IYKWIM.

    Don't know about the fitment of other types... would imagine that it would probably be possible to fit other kinds as well, but mounting other types might be a PITA if they don't use the same holes as the fog lights (not sure if the bugeye is the same as the classics for that).

  19. :icon_butt: they are much the same Dunk, its just that the Jigsaws have a lot more cool toys and less seats (For stretchers)...

    (Yellow and black is Search and rescue - Red is taxi!)

    ...and the SAR ones cost a LOT more.

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