Big 'D'

And you too You need anymore truegrips? Cheers Iain

That is correct mate the 3 port seems to be the method of choice as far as aftermarket boost control is concerned, I run an Apexi AVC-R and cannot fault it. Neil, your boost problem is directly linked to your MAP sensor, if you have a dodgy sensor or it is dirty inside preventing it from sensing the, ecu goes into a safe boost mode (by safe mode I mean it stops the boost solenoid from operating and you run off wastegate pressure roughly 0.5BAR) and the check engine light comes on, you can simulate this fault by unplugging the MAP sensor, it is also possible that the pressure switching valve (the other sensor that is attached to the MAP sensor) has a blockage or one of its pipes is blocked? If attempting to clean this system out use only carb or clutch and brake cleaner as it vapourises after use. Good luck with sorting this mate. Cheers Iain

I think we had noticed that about you Cheers Iain

The fault code 32 could also be the o2 sensor which could cause running issues, have you tried an ECU reset? If you disconnect the battery for an hour or so then reconnect it and check to see if the faults have gone, take it for a run and if it does it again and the fault code is the same (32) then I would be tempted to change the o2 sensor. Cheers Iain

If running higher than standard boost of planning to fit a bigger turbo in the future, fitting a 3 port boost solenoid (some models have this as standard) or a full boost controller will give you much better boost control than the 2 port solenoid found on most scoobs. I can explain in detail if required Cheers Iain

Bling Bling Looking good mate Cheers Iain

Hi all I would like to invite you to join us for our monthly meet at the Kings Arms 'Harvester' in Kidlington on the 8th of March from 11:30 onwards, the food has always been great and well priced here, with a very friendly welcoming atmosphere Click here for location map.........Link to Map If you would like to join us for this meet please add your name to the list below. 1. Big 'D' and co 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Cheers Iain

I think that covers it mate there is no need to go any deeper than that Cheers Iain

I will post the next meet plans up tonight, it will be at the Harvester in Kidlington next month. Cheers Iain

Who would want to strip her down, looks like all she needs is a little TLC Cheers Iain

No probs mate, should have looked earlier I would have offered sooner LOL Cheers Iain

If you ever need a hand with this mate please do not hesitate to ask. Cheers Iain

What you want to be asking is "will my sport fit in that?"LOL I have seen 747 jumbo jets with smaller turbines Cheers Iain

No bloody wonder we have no 'jet engines' to fit to our aircraft these days as you lot are strapping them to your cars LOL Laggy? Does that thing come with an afterburner? Cheers Iain

LOL sorry mate so you are I will sort it for you now. Cheers Iain

I am very pleased with the turnout so far and I am sure that all the spaces will be full before the show Scoobywags primed arches will be gone by the time of the show because I am sorting them is what I meant Thanks again everyone and especially you Craigy for sorting this for us Cheers Iain

Scoobywag, if your arches are still in primer by then something has gone very wrong, it will be sorted by then mate Cheers Iain

I am happy to have a look at it mate, I am waiting for the better weather to come in then I can get started on the body work side of things again, I have a bit of work to do for WhisperUK first then I am at your disposal mate, if you can get the car to a meet or down for me to look at before then it will give me a better idea of what needs doing. I look forward to meeting you mate. Cheers Iain

You are welcome mate, I just noticed alot of the words in my last post dont actually exist LOL (spelling) Cheers Iain

A very common place for a leak is the plastic end caps of the radiator on the back of the rad on the drivers side they commonly split after around 100K or so, would be worth checking. The other more obvious ones to check would be all of the pipe joins in the coolant system, be veay careful with any attachments on the rad as they are/can be very brittle. Cheers Iain

When you topped the coolant up could you see coolant in the resevoir? If not it may still need more water putting in. If you top it up then start the car for a few seconds then stop it and check the level again. If your water was low you have either got a weak pressure cap or a leak. Cheers Iain

Let us know what you find. Cheers Iain

Again to be on the safe side use a Subaru or Subaru specialist garage as the water pump is driven off the timing belt you want to be 100% certain that there is a fault there and if there is that it is going to be rectified by someone who knows what they are doing Let us know how you get on Out of interest have you checked your water level? Cheers Iain

A blockage in the pipework would cause constant cold air, that is why I said a restriction For example if you had a hose that has a slight kink in it somewhere that might not let water through at idle but when you increase the revs the water flow would increase and squeeze past the kink in the hose but then when you back off the kink would seal off the water flow again this could be the same for an internal restriction. Cheers Iain