crispyduck

Looks good mate. If you ever feel like doing a write up on your project I'll publish it as a technical article on Scoobypedia for you. If interested let me know as we have a few related articles including: Hawkeye STi Door Card Upgrade, Installing A Spec C Roof Vent, and Slant Eye Dash Upgrade. I could see that Roof Vent on yours too ;-) -Steve.

My friends MY04 STi PPP target boost in the map says 19.34psi but it actually boosts to around 18.43psi in third on a WOT run. I've looked at the maps on your MY02 STi (A4RG060Q) and the target boost is 16.86psi from 2800-4400 RPM. I'd expect you'd get anything from 16psi on the road. FYI your boost map is below: -Steve.

I don't have the final answer but someone may know. In the meantime the page below lists most EU cars we know about so far: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...bilityList#toc5 Yours will likely be a A4SE700D (AF530 7554) or the newer A4SE900D (AF531 7555) then the PPP maps added to that. One thing I have found is that the PPP ECUs can show up as all sorts of different ECU IDs. For example my friends UK MY04 WRX STi PPP showed up as the older MY 01/02 ECU - A4RN1000. -Steve.

Sorry to here of your problems. Take a look at the following page that explains what you need (software free, cable to purchase): http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...ReadingECUCodes -Steve.

Paul N reminded me. The options and accessories you get for an EU import as nearly half the cost of UK options e.g. leather, wheels, towbar, etc. So if you getting any of the expensive options get them done at time of purchase. -Steve.

I did the EU import thing for my MY03 WRX however I did it direct with a Subaru dealer in Belgium. All you do is register the car with IM in the UK for pan europe warranty purposes and you're good to go and covered for three years. All insurance companies I've ever contacted are fine with UK or EU cars, same price. They only discriminate against JAP imports. I saved a little more money than you at that time although I took the gamble on the currency exchange rates, etc. Assume you're going with a UK import company. You should know that if you are likely to tune your car and want to keep your warranty you'll likely be getting the PPP option. I think that option is only available from Subaru UK supplied cars. So if yes to PPP then no to EU (parallel) import. Would I do it again? most definitely if it again saved me my first years depreciation.

My MY03 WRX says 97RON Super Unleaded

That's quite a touching picture - never seen anything like it.

Welcome to 'the club'. Others will be along with exhaust manufacturer recommendations. Power to 260BHP is fine on standard internals (PPP is around this as standard anyway). I did some tests with how my MY03 WRX responded to various states of tune. With respect to exhaust, when only using a decat downpipe the standard mapping on the car made the injectors max out at 100% duty cycle from around 5500RPM. This was because it was running off the end of the fuel map given it's flowing more air. In fact the car was running plenty of fuel and didn't actually need to run the injectors at 100%. Thus my advice is, if you go for a decat downpipe or sports CAT downpipe then remap would be best. If you only do dump valve and middle CAT then it won't really make any difference so no remap is needed. You'll be impressed with a sports CAT and remap, that's about the best bang for buck. Any more and it gets much more expensive per BHP gained. -Steve.

In addition to the advice above you simply give the VIN number to the UK dealer. If it comes up on their system then it's a UK/EURO car. If it doesn't, then it's a JAP import. -Steve.

Nick, IIRC a PPP kit for the bug eye would consist of a piggy back ECU modification, unlike cars a year newer, which were a remap of the existing ECU. For future flexibility I would encourage you to go for a remap vice piggyback option - so check that if you end up going PPP. I'm surprised about your fuel economy, and assume you don't do a lot of long journey's or have a 'fun' right foot. All my experience is based on my MY03 WRX and I usually get 340 miles per tank on my long commute to work each day (almost ideal conditions for fuel economy). If you don't need to use the extra power of the PPP you can expect fuel economy to be better (it was for me) - reasons; better ECU map, better fuel (Optimax/VPower), more efficient exhaust system, and the more power sometimes makes you use less 'right foot' to gain speed. If you are a DIY person and happy with the risks then the other end of the spectrum is PPP-like performance for poor mans money (see link below): http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Pro...epModifications If your not a DIY'er then I'd recommend you pay for an off the shelf or custom map from a tuner recommended on here and a high flow downpipe CAT so it passes the MOT. -Steve.

The physics are a little different. Octane of LPG is higher than Optimax ;-) but its calorific properties means it burns quicker than petrol. -Steve.

Axson, thanks for your feedback. Can you give us any more details on why you can't convert a PPP impreza, as apposed to a standard impreza turbo? Is it the amount of power per LPG injector is too high?

I've progressed my researched quite a bit and chosen my installer. I'll soon be requesting a written quote with the installation customations I'm after. The guy has a long waiting list at the moment so it won't actually be getting done for two months :-o If my car sales in the meantime then I'll not be getting it done. I haven't read emoe's findings, but I would say unless you're a high mileage driver and can not get your investment back within the first 12 months on petrol savings then it's likely not that attractive to people. I've learned that if you find the right installer that has previous experience with your car and uses the right kit then things should be good. I guess I'll be finding out if first hand if what other have said is correct! -Steve.

Agree with the above. It's unlikely all these have occurred at the same time - they build up over a period of time and are stored. Also suggest you reset and find what code(s) trigger your CEL. Have you had your car long? i.e. are the codes from the previous owner? Also assume you have a Classic right?

emoe, all done. See: Water Injection Article on Scoobypedia

Nice write-up emoe. Would you have any objections if I republish this as an article on Scoobypedia? -Steve.

Good advice emoe. I thought this warranted a quick article on Scoobypedia for future reference, see below: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...atMotFailureFix Feel free to hit edit and correct anything if I've miss quoted you ;-) -Steve.

Link sorted mate - I migrated the old FAQ to Scoobypedia and forgot to update the link you found. This is where it is: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/SidcFaq/SidcFaq -Steve.

With the current price of fuel and the fact I'm close to spending £400/month on fuel I've been looking at alternative options. Some obvious and some not so. I've been doing a lot of research in to LPG conversions for our Scooby's. I came across a guy who converted his modified Classic himself. I've posted up a Scoobypedia Technical article from his web site here: http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Kno...e/LpgConversion Looks like the quality of the kits on the market have got much better over the past two years and I'm really swaying that way at the moment. I'm a bit of DIY person and tempted to do the same myself - especially when I break even after just 4-5 months. I especially like where he located the LPG filler - under the rear number plate! I've since caught up with this guy is still really happy with his DIY conversion and would do it again. I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else out there has first-hand experience of an LPG Scooby Turbo and let me know how it's going and if they have any words of wisdom in the cold light of day. -Steve.

Just searched - Aug 2001 for me. Where has the time gone? Time flies when you have a Scooby :-)

Phil, Just a quick observation. In general batteries do not go flat every couple of weeks if they are not being used. How old is your battery? If it's over 4 years old then you need a new battery and you'll be sorted. Something else to consider is that something might be draining your battery more than normal when your not using it, dodgy alarm, boot always on. Might want to check it out. -Steve.

Don't 'they' say that when you drive the car out the showroom you've just lost the VAT - just under £5K for your friend! So tell him he's really only losing £1-2K ;-) It's not fair I know.

This is good advise and some thing to consider. I remember hearing about that issue so did some research a while back. Higher Exhaust Gas Temps (EGTs) was discussed back then also. What I couldn't do at the time was get a feeling for how much of an increase in EGTs, say over 200 degrees from standard, would cause the pre-turbo CAT to accelerate it's break down. All of this being discussed here is very valid and without simple monitoring tools and/or instruments factors like IDC's, EGT's and Knock Correction can not measured and certainly can not be guessed at. I posted an article on an innovative DIY tool to let you hear knock, some say it works quite well - not good for your image though ;-) Just keep listening to all the advice and do what you think is best. You can't learn too much, that's for sure.

From personal experience on my newage WRX MY03 I would say yes. Standard car plus decat downpipe and prodrive back box saw my injectors working overtime at 98-100% Injector Duty Cycle (IDC). This is not good for long-term reliability as I've learned injectors should be run up to around 80% IDC at max revs. My injectors maxed out from about 5.7K RPM. With that said it doesn't mean you car will run lean, just your standard map will max out fueling in this configuration and not have control over fueling. A remap would really help tune your specific car to these mods, likely resulting in lower IDC's at max revs. If the tuner can not do this then an uprated fuel pump would be required and then remap again. I've read some on these forums just go for an uprated pump to ensure at max revs you never go too lean. This way you'll be even richer, which could also be bad. Too much fuel could wash the bore of oil causing more engine wear and heat to be generated. So having already done what you have I would get remap. Obviously it's all expense. Anything less and we all starting to gamble and hope it's all fine. People take calculated risks on this all the time, it's just better to be informed. That is unless you do your own data logging directly from your ECU to see really what is going on. That's what I did, and why I can quote the figure above. Every car is different. Just my 2p worth, -Steve.