johnnyr6

Wastegate chatter for me everytime.

Never mind the sump plug... look at the state of that workbench!![]

Unusual to see an increase in phase 1 cars, i didn't get any increase on my sti2 (although power went up a bit)

If fueling etc. is ok p1's and sti's can handle 1.5 bar. decat seems to have this effect on later classics. if you don't have an uprated pump and reg you may run lean so defo worth getting it checked by andy.

No, it wasn't on the twisties, i was in my scoob and beat the exup on the strip. As for the bikes, i had a R6 140 was just overtaking it would easily show 170 on the clocks. On a tight twisty road the car will win but on a sweeper its not so clear cut. Next time your at knockhill, on the way back to kincardine, once across the bridge see what speed your car is sitting at on the tight right hander heading to glasgow (all shellgripped) then it flows into a left hander. Both sweepers. My R6 would sit at 100 on the righthander and 140 on the left easy.

Back to subject.... A 400 exup (raceprepped) on crail. Havn't got my bike anymore but when i did i never had a car worry me on the road. Roads are just too busy and cars too wide (when was the last time you saw a car overtaking a car already in the fastlane at 140+???)

Squirrels way seems to work. A fuel pump and reg wont increase power on its own but make it easier to up power safely reducing the chance of running lean. A tdo5 is prob a good bet with a remap. A sti5 or 6 top mount is good enough for up to 350 and cheaper , easier to fit than a front mount. If 300 is your limit pump, reg, tdo5, sti 5/6 top mount and a remap should give you a safe and reliable 300. This can be fitted a bit at a time when funds allow. If your planning more at a later stage then fitting a front mount is prob a good idea.

1.Fai17(on track) 2.G6RAY(spectating) 3.Marc29(spectating) 4.Gumball (spectating/malingering) 5.Ally-b 6.G mac 7. Wilky (On track) 8. Big Daz & Scoobylav (On Track with project Puggy) 9. FastScooby (Hopefully with a fresh MOT) 10. JohnnyR6 (due to car probs.. spectating[]) http://nurburgring.org.uk/webcams.html'>

Get along to the local tool hire guys and hire one. We'll check your car and mine, if its too loud for sso then we'll throw mine on it.... Jobs a good un!!

No matter what power your running a 3" system is better as it's more free flowing so easier to get power from. Plenty of big power cars ( 400 ish) use a 2.5" but it takes more to get there.

As colin said i left my car at home, with him running his in and mine hitting fuel cut all the time i thought it was better to leave it at home. Next time

Funny, couldn't be bothered reading all of it but she is defo NO SEXY CHICK!!!

hold the revs steady at 5 to 6 k then as the lights change dump the clutch and nail it, need good tyres though, as colins car spins all 4 wheels for the first 40 feet (cheap crap tyres).

Raddish... funnily enough the bike won Fee.. your correct his name is Colin who was a bit miffed he couldn't run but with the engine only showing 200 miles and filled with crap oil there was no way i was letting him run it today. Well done to Scot (coulty's bro) who posted a 14.7 in his 1.3 polo (unfortunately blew the gearbox at the same time).

Depends what you want and who you speak to. i personally wouldn't run an engine in by keeping it under 3k, what i have done before with both my bikes and cars is to keep it low revs for the first couple of hundred miles ( under 4k ish) then gradually built up the revs up to 1k miles and with hte scoob i would gradually give it some boost (not full though). This way your putting the engine under a bit of pressure helping it bed in. The end result (fingers crossed) is a reliable engine which makes good power. As a rough rule of thumb, drive it harder and you'll make more power but engine life less, take it easy it lasts longer but make less power.

What year is your car? If early an aftermarket ecu is the way to go ( i know of a gems if interested). If later you can remap the standard ecu. As for how far you can go, over 400 on a standard unmappable ecu (my96 sti2) has been done. But not recommended unless you know what your doing with scoobs.

Nice bike control on this one.. GSXR1000 vs.Westfield http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=29...925&pl=true

Just saying a big thanks to the lads at Meercat for getting rid of the hole in my centre section today. Awesome work and my system now sits better. But more so for giving a guided tour of the Cossie powered MK2 Escort. Awesome looking machine.

They all do that, you get used to it. it's the wind pressure overcoming the window seal on the pillarless doors. Fisrt time i experienced it a shat myself, thought the rear window had just caved in.

FOOK ME proper name: air steward forum name: kiss ass

Aww... Happy Birthday Rosie..[<)]

Dunno about price, yes the3 timing belt will need changed (if it is where the leak is coming from). Give greersport a phone they'll sort you out no prob. They're in kilbirnie (or just outside it) so not too far to travel.

Is it coming from behind the crank pulley? The pulley at the bottom in the middle? If so it may be the crank pulley oil seal, quite a common prob. Not too bad to remedy if it is, at least the engine doesn't need to come out.

Good news m8, can't wait to see it in action. As for the power thing, i'm sure it'll keep you happy buy who cares? from what i've seen and heard from the greer boys its not just for out and out power its more a performance package, after all... Power is nothing without control.

St3ph3n, with the way you drive on track these would be better for ya.... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/off-road-range-rover...1QQcmdZViewItem LOL..