Dave K

I'll be going to the rally........... GB I should be sat in the Millennium stadium with GrahamWR1 watching the rally GB super special stage, so can’t make this one. Plus I don’t think the car will be functional by then anyway!

The noise will be reflected by the type of back box you have, some people have full decat's and they don’t sound much louder than standard. Does yours have a prodrive back box? From what I have found you have a 02 sensor in manifold, EGT probe in up pipe and an other 02 sensor after the 3rd cat. Cat in up pipe, down pipe & centre pipe. You will either need an ecutek remap to take full advantage of the decat and at the same time disable the CEL error or fit a CEL fix. Hope this helps.

Morning all, calm before the storm of today’s work!

Just a note for everyone, dont upgrade to Internet Explorer 7 unless you want all your posting to be screwed up. Just tried to post with it, right pain. So using Mozilla Firefox to post now. Best stay on IE 6.

Christ that is very bad Jim, I thought the plug gaps you posted was bad enough but that [] the things you cant see hey[]. As you say dont look good for the rest of the engine with that lot floating about. Is it going to be a full rebuild now then? Was going to ask you how you finding the agx shocks since you put them on? Thinking of replacing mine.

He gets a tapping noise on overrun, which sounded like it was coming from the heads. So when we pulled the covers and checked the timing to find the tooth out was an obvious problem. We thought it might have been down to valve piston contact. But it wasn’t so chances are its big ends, which as you know we wont find out till the blocks in two [:@] bloody engines.

Lol, Nick had his fair share of that on his cambelt covers. Bummer Jim thought it was just new shells and get her running.

Engine not out more the case! When we looked at the timing marks we discovered that the o/s inlet cam had jumped a tooth[]. So we re-timed it correctly and had a clean up, which Nick kept telling me off for [:$]. Then put it all back hoping it had fixed the problem, unfortunately it had not, had to give it a go though.

Cheers, only time will tell, hopefully I wont have to many problems. Moved on to sorting out all the ancillaries ready for the rebuild. Started on the power steering pump; What a place to put the bolts, think the older style units are on the outside; Which revealed the leaking o-ring that has been pi$$ing all over my cambelt cover for months [:@]; Started cleaning up the mounting brackets before and after; And then got a tad carried away with the reservoir housing!;

All the best Jim, might see you out then, out Sat night myself. Now here's a line this thread aint seen in a while! ENGINE OUT NICK lol

Very nice bike John, take it you aint doing anymore racing then?

Bloody forum can’t edit old posts, they fixed it at last.[]

How to mod a Knocklink to fit A-Pillar pod; Kit required to do the job; Split Knocklink case open; Drill case and fit; Remove led's and replace with wire of appropriate length to reach pod, also note only one earth wire is require; Fit back in case and feed through; Finished unit; Led's fitted to pod with eyelets and all negative legs soldered together; Fit to pillar and job done; First led shows unit is powered;

I found All round tyres to be very good http://www.isleofman.com/organisations/all_round_tyres/ when sorting my goodyear 18's, which can be a problem on the island. He also takes a lot of care fitting the tyre to the alloy, equalled the price of UK so was a good deal.[]

The quality of the construction is fine, however most people on Scoobynet that have had the headers end up with a blown flexi joint, including Andy Forrest when he tested a set under 1.5bar. So not having a dig at the quality it’s just almost all the cheap units on eBay that are of similar design tend to have a problem with the flexi joint. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> My cast headers also have a flexi joint in the centre joining pipe.

Will have to check with Jim as he has first refusal, otherwise not a problem. As Andrew said get his unit then modify it to extend the leds, will put how to in my project thread for you. Any interested parties on the scoob yet?

Hi Rob how's things? If it's got gold alloys with gold decals then I think Richard knows the guy.

Had a few days off after the hol so got stuck back into the engine strip. First had to purchase a 14mm allen socket to remove the access plugs, gudgeon retaining c-clip can be seen; Plug, c-clip and gudgeon pin removed; All access points are 14mm allen plug except No.4 which is a plate held with two impact driven cross head screws; Plate, c-clip, gudgeon pin and piston removed; All removed, no signs of and major damage to the pistons; The empty bores; Ready for sump removal; Oil pickup removed; On inspecting the oil pickup I found a piece of swarf in the mesh; All block bolts removed and ready for split; A few taps with a rubber mallet seen the two halves split; All main bearings look good on o/s half; Crank sat in n/s half; Bearings in n/s half with slight pitting to one bearing; All the big end bearings had slight wear, which was expected; No.1 rod; No. 2 rod; No. 3 rod, which had picked up and is where the swarf in the oil pickup had come from!; No.4 rod; One crank; One set of rods;

Hi John, dump valves get mixed opinions re benefits, if setup correctly they will help but mainly added for sound. As for a filter, I would put a good K&N panel filter in your existing air box, works just as well and it don't mess you MAF up due to vibration that some filters cause if not mounted properly. But to be honest if you are looking for some more go then I would concentrate more on the exhaust side. Get rid of the cats in the system, this is where you will see the biggest gains, in power and sound. []

Cheers Andrew, Hmmmmmmmmmm Yes I did, sent a few e-mails back and forth just sorting out the plan of attack at mo.

I agree with Andrew don't get cheap headers; they look like the Megan ones that most people have said split after a while. I have Gruppe-S headers aswell, better construction etc with the expansion joints, and yes they do make a big difference. When the car was first mapped the spool up of the turbo came in earlier and a lot harder, so much so that you felt it in the car, I made an extra 30lbft with them. And I haven't ported the flanges like Andrew yet.[] Same a V1 Gruppe-S headers; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-WRX-...emZ320000938772 Same a V2 Gruppe-S headers; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-WRX-GC8-GDB-T...5QQcmdZViewItem I run the V2 style not sure which Andrew has;

Evening, got back to the island yesterday morning.

Lol, that was the easy bit! Removed cam pulleys; Removed cams and ex buckets/shims; Some major torque in those head bolts; Bores look good, can still see the honing and no score markings; Fair bit of carbon build-up on pistons, from what I have found on web this is because I have been running around on low revs but with safe fuelling for a while. Plus the car has done 75k, No3 looks to be the odd one out on the burn pattern; Valves looking a bit grubby, discovered why there is so much oil being burned, the PCV was goosed so that is getting binned and blocked off with block venting to the catch can for rebuild; Repeat on other bank; Heads ready One redundant short block;

Welcome to the forum & the rock bopalula. May be a while before I can flash you in mine though.

Nice car John, must admit prefer those headlights to the standard bugeye ones.