badbaz

Fixed your link for ya Dave Well done ScoobieFloz, you'll love it and be made very welcome

Already looking forward to the fun Can I just add at this point that although Friday night's stop over is in Inverness, there is a Friday run up starting much lower down in Scotland. Dave will fill in all details as they are confirmed, don't want all you Southerners looking at the big scary map and freaking out Make it a date, you won't regret it

keep us posted

Had some spare time today so out came the dash bar, heater box and fan then I started looking at wiring - big headache now Everything to remove is now off the car so it's time to start chopping, cutting and generally removing everything that is not needed. When I did the first weight loss it was all big and unbolted easily. It's diminishing returns now but needs must It's gonna be a slow process now as I move through the interior and sort the wiring. Already spent two hours today downloading wiring diagrams and made a start to the rear loom. It's gonna be real slow

On top of the engine at the left and right, if you look you should see two injectors at each side. One forward from the other. The fuel rails hold them in. Also check all fuel pipes under the bonnet, they come in on the RHS as you look at it and then go onto the engine, into the RHS fuel rail, then across under the inlet manifold to the LHS fuel rail. Closely check all these areas but be careful of the fire risk. If you are sure it's not leaking here then you'll need to check on top of the fuel sender at the tank just to be sure.

Don't panic but I'd make 100% sure that there isn't a leak somewhere which is allowing the pressure to leak away. It won't be a massive leak, or that easy to find.

In particular I'd check the fuel rails. May not be that but better be safe. Are you able to go try the ignition on then pause then start?

Remind me what you changed again?

Try the ignition on for two or three seconds and then start it. If you do have a fuel leak be very careful!

Hi and welcome to SIDC

Are you sure there are no fuel leaks? It could be losing pressure. If it was, turn on the ignition, wait two seconds and then try it. Is this from cold or hot or both?

What exactly do you mean 2 or 3 turns of the key? Do you mean 3 separate attempts and how long are you winding it each time or are you flicking the key and expecting it to start instantly?

I do these things just for you Kenny. I know how you like an opening

Just use any brand plugs like, NGK, Bosch etc, every supplier will list the correct ones for you.

Standard or modified?

Max , fair point - however, I stay in Scotland. Beyond that there isn't a need to justify my decision but I will The heated windcreen doesn't demist the side windows, a heated screen costs money, so overall weight loss v cash and inconvenience equals forget it! I'll check over the set up and might even report on it's weight but there is no way it goes

His wife has posted on Scoobynet to say that sadly Harvey died during the week. He was a good supporter of SIDC Scottish Scoobies Santa Cruise over the years and I personally won a prize from him through the Santa Cruise a couple of years ago. It was the only time I dealt with him but found him to be more than helpful. RIP Harvey

Pushing on with the strip down tonight, seats and harnesses removed, then the dash. It's slow going because I'm trying to mark what's needed and what's not as I go. Anyway, I'm now ready to get the wiring looked at. The heater box is probably as stripped as it can be but there are many brackets, bolts, captive nuts and double skin mounting points that can get the chop! A few pics from tonight, thing is, after all this it'll just look the same inside! I also received an upgrade today, nothing too exciting but it's a braided hose kit which will simplify the rather overcomplicated clutch hydraulics. The standard set up has two outputs from the master cylinder which then become one through the connector block before entering the slave cylinder (circled in bottom pic) via a damper. All this will go, one output on the master will be blocked off and the slave cylinder will be fed directly via a stainless braided hose. Hoping this aids the launches, and of course a little weight saved The kit was purchased from AS Performance - excellent and efficient service

Still stripping things down. Split the diff from the cradle, hubs and arms. I have a childish plan to get the car capable for launches. Just for the hell of it. The ECU already has launch control enabled since my first remap back in 08. I did a few at that time but my mechanical sympathy prevented any more. Once the power was boosted there was just no way. However I am now gonna go for a clutch that will be capable of launching. The gearbox 'should' be fine, as will the propshaft. The weakest link will be the rear shafts and/or their CV joints. I'm looking into upgrading the shafts for harder material if possible but the joints will cope so long as the geo doesn't cause high shaft angles. The rear cradle I was considering would have helped to dial this out, but at this stage it's just too much expense. I suppose we will see just how it all pans out next April ..... Tonight I split the gearbox from the engine. A simple task when out of the car if it weren't for the bloody dowels being seized shitless in the bellhousing. Some heat and gentle persuasion finally got them apart. Only thing left to do now is split the engine from it's X-member. Just waiting on an engine stand to store it on before I do that. It will keep it safe, allow good access for working and save my header heat wrap from getting damaged My mig welder has been out of action for a while now - managed to survive without it but found some time today to get a look at it. Eventually found a broken track on one of the PCBs, repaired it and bingo back in business. So I'm thinking about making a spit for the shell so that I can work on the underside without it being above my head. Anyone using a spit and recommend it? Some items ordered for the car today, and an ever growing list of 'to dos' got a little bigger. Stay tuned Tomorrow night I'll start removing the dash so I can assess the inside properly.

Thanks Mark. The standard shocks and Whiteline springs may look naff but they are still the best set up for my car and previous budget. On local back roads, the cars with coilovers struggle to cope with the undulations. My setup is unfazed. The rears are needing a regrease as they are a bit sticky and the biggest issue now is, despite slightly lowered springs, the car is getting higher due to the weight loss! Anyway, to end the debate, I have made a decision on coilovers, if I do finally take the plunge and all will be revealed soon. Ramp is defo a big benefit when playing at cars Craig, strangely enough my helper's mental age is also 3 & 1/2 Thanks for that Dave, it's the exact science that impresses me most with you. I did weigh Frazer's Teins when he got them and compared them to a strut which was definitely heavier.

Good results, VF35 is a good upgrade. I'm more interested in the lunch control. Does this limit what you eat, or restrict your lunch time, or is it for another purpose?

Did you weigh them Dave lad?

Welcome to SIDC, nice pic

Didn't like the DTM pipe? What do you tow with it?

No rule Marko, they should be replaced if worn, problem is deciding what's worn and what's not. The tensioner is hydraulic and has to be pushed back and pinned to allow the new belt to be fitted, these can be damaged in this process so a lot of folk will renew as a matter of course 'just in case'. A tensioner and idler pulleys are much cheaper than an engine rebuild. I would recommend that these are changed with the belt for peace of mind. I, however, did not change any of mine when I fitted a new belt. The engine had only done about 34k at that point though. Another item lots would change is the waterpump, that along with tensioner and idlers eliminates all things likely to fail prematurely and cause the new belt to fail. Of course new stuff fails too To sum up, the person fitting should check the above components. If deemed worn, rough etc then they should be renewed. It's common sense. And good luck