arch

Must admit I am surprised John S didnt put up any shots.

I still remember one shot from Alford a few years back of one of the nova's on two wheels as he got the cros sover wrong how the car never rolled i will never know. That is the best action shot i have seen for a while. That would have been my no.1 choice.

Mark do you work for flybe by any chance?

A calander pic would be good to remind me what it looks like it wont look like that next year lol

Arch & Gus - can you choose one image please

Sorry been on nights thanks for choosing for me I wouldnt have known which one

No worries that was from a manual I had for 2002 0n so prob accurate.

Pretty sure its 137Lb/ft for both rear disc and rear drum brake assemblies.

Give Alyn a ring at As Performance he will advise on best option and is always competative on price.

Golspie Scottish sprint

Message with you.

Will have a look over the weekend as I have a couple of 754VN1AA boxes and gear sets. What exactly do you need.

You would be better with 550's but to be honest in my opinion you should be looking at a mappable ECU as a matter of priority.

I am assuming you are using the standard ECU, but have changed the downpipe, induction system etc etc but still using the standard ECU and map not the best idea.

You should be able to pick up a TY754VN4AA box out of a blobeye WRX for around £300, poss another £100 for the diff at worst if you cant get it thrown in with the box.

Clutch, might be worth looking at the ACT range from the states, they are getting good revues and work out fairly cheap. Other than that that its an uprated exceedy.

A TY754VN4AA for example should hold up ok at 300/300 it did for me with 400/400 on a 2.5 with a 20G, with standard RA engine, you would need a matching 3.54 rear diff which are cheap as all uk newage WRX's use this diff.

I would advise changing to a mapable ecu cheapest options would be a Power FC or a SimTek.

I am assuming you are still on the standard 16G which will give you just under 300/300 if mapped properly by the likes of Andy F. You may need to upgrade the injectors if you have standard fit items.

No idea why you would want to weld the bolt on just make sure its tight and it shouldnt come off. Never had an issue on my RA or road car neither have come off. If you weld it up you will not then be able to fit a wideband if you wanted to.

I am to pikey to buy the uprated shafts so I just keep loads of spare standard R180 shafts lol. Only takes 10 mins to change one.

CV's break more often than the shafts might be worth thinking about them as well

Sorry re-read my post and it was a bit cryptic and wasnt meant to be. I meant Steve Whitson.

One thing I am a bit surprised about is your choice of engine builder, which I am assuming is David at API. Nothing wrong with that at all but given you have an engine builder almost on your doorstep who is held in high regard by many on here then it seems a strange choice when a local buildeer would have made the logistics of things much easier especially when it comes to having important face to face chats ref the build.

If you can feel anything with your nail I would suggest its gubbed. The journals would need to be line bored but whether that is possible would depend on the damage as there is obviously a finite amount of material that can be removed. I would suggest that it is only a matter of time until the cam bearings also show wear/damage.

Given your location perhaps a phone call to someone like Steve Whitson may be appropriate.

I dont think anyone is being negative, certainly from my point of view, I was trying to hint that taking advice from those that have the experience, Andy for example, and others who have already been down the road you are choosing may be advantageous to you. As mentioned by myself and others, I would ask Andy's advice FIRST, before deciding on any spec of engine and turbo/fueling combination. Experienced mappers see these cars day in day out and see/feel the results so are best placed to comment on compatability of components. From prsonal experience I have been round Kames in a car with a "large" turbo and it was comical.

I agree changing the turbo and remapping accordingly is no big deal but it will be an expensive learning process at around £2k+ once you take into account the cost of purchasing a new turbo, gaskets, fluids and a remap and the depreciation should you decide to sell the GT35 which will have a much more limited market than a GT30. In my opinion you should be trying this the other way round i.e GT30 first and if it doesnt provide what you want move up to the 35 and sell the 30.

The one comment I would totally disagree with is your assertion that you will use rev management to get the best from a 35. Depending where you are going to use this car i.e which roads/tracks you may find it very difficult to keep the revs within the required power band.

As mentioned good luck with the build and hope it goes well.

FWIW andy f also recommende a gt30r over the the 35

Speechless you obviously have far to much money can I have some

The problem you have is that fitting a higher pressure pump means you will have more fuel pressure available. So it depends on how good your regulator is, if your regulator doesnt regulate your supply fuel pressure to exactly the same pressure as before fitting the new pump you will either run lean or more likely rich. Realistically you should fit a decent fuel pressure regulator, fuelab or the like, and then have the car mapped to suit the fueling. Its not as simple as squirt in more fuel and crank up the boost.

The police should prosecute him for leaving the scene of an accident which will end up with him having points and a fine.

In my opinion you will need more than a single 044 for that Turbo.

Swirl pot prob not required given your usage you will just need to manage the fuel levels in the tank.

You should really be directing the questions relating to pump and injector suitability to Andy preferably before you buy them.

thanks agian, some good reading

im not sure where people aregetting 600bhp set up.

the aim is 550bhp and the subsequent parts have been built to this power level. if i was lucky id top out jst over 550bhp.

but i budgeted only for this level, as upping to 600bhp and more, would ioncurr a fair bit more cost that i wanted.

so to track my car, you guys wouldnt do that without a swirl pot and multiple pump set up?

You need to say what turbo you are using you have been asked but didnt say, its impossible to advise without all the info. If your retaining the standard fuel tank then you need a swirl pot if the car is going onto a track to be used competatively, otherwise you WILL get fuel surge. There are also a world of other things you need to think about in terms of whats fitted depending on what class you are putting the car into.