arch
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Posts posted by arch
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Nei I had two wheels that had been stevenson'ed repaired in coatbridge at a place that was recommended by Jum Dickson they were almost as bad as that. They repaired both perfectly but it wasnt cheap total was £130 for both but was still cheaper than two new wheels. Will try and dig out the name.
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I also had a set if Ian's discs on the road car when it had Subaru 4 pots on and never had an issue.
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It would be a struggle to build a competative sprint car for 10G never mind a 1000 bhp capable car.
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If you were doing most of the fabrication and chopping your self and building the engine yourself you could do it on a fair budget. To pay someone to do it mmm not sure its worth it and once built what would you use it for.
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While your speaking to Sy you could also ask him about his gearbox
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wouldn't touch them, i've seen his work and it looked like a 3year olds dot to dot. not pretty.c&c costom exhausts in hillington do a good job,
But are expensive!
There is no way C+C would have spent 2 days making my rotated turbo set up to exactly the spec and position I wanted and charged me what meercat did, or would have spent a day fabricating and fitting my rotated FMIC pipework. Meercat charged the same to do my FMIC pipework as C+C did to adjust a centre exhaust section.
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As peter says if your down that direction it makesno sense not to use meercat. The unit doesnt look that fancy but the quality of the work speaks for itself.
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Got some nice group N mounts that fit straight onto them shiny struts if your interested.
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Still waiting for my quote from Keith Michaels, cannot wait much longer, time is running out.
Try chris at A-Plan at least he will get back to you and they are pretty competative.
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That seems really expensive to me given what blobeye WRX's in excellent condition with some mods are going for. I looked at selling my 55 Plate WRX and thought around 7K with the mods was fair but £5500 for one that price
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I have done this re-greasing malarky twice, the first time with a high quality grease recommended for the job on a set of rear struts on a 55 plate blobeye. Lasted a week and had to change the struts replaced them with KYB's. These lasted 2 years, thought ah well might as well try it again, but this time used heavy duty aircraft strut grease lasted 15 days and then repalced all 4 struts with KYB Ultra's havnt had a problem since - touch wood. It is worth checking there is no play in the top mounts but in my opinion you are wasting your time repacking them.
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Go for it then grease away.
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http://bbs.scoobynet.com/subaru-parts-451/882439-v5-6-sti-engine-fordged.html
Bought some parts from this guy, all exactly as described and seems 100% genuine.
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Dont bother repacking the struts with new grease it doesnt work, you will pend two hours doing it only for the problem to return a week later. It will also fail an MOT if the wear can be felt so that being the case the car is not fit for purpose and the struts should be changed under the warranty you have.
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Personally if I was throwing that sort of cash at a rebuild I wouldn't start with an open deck block. If you're already future proofing I pay the extra for a CDB.
If it was my money and I wasn't building a monster I'd buy a used short block and throw it in, far cheaper.
Find the cause of the original failure though or you'll need to go through it all over again. I'd start with the mapping on a P1.
Cheapest option would be a short block from the newest low mileage car you can find. Plenty newage STI's being broken on scoobynet. Put your own heads on, assuming they are ok, and away you go.
To forge a standard P1 block would be madness. Next option CDB and the best crank, pistons and rods you can afford.
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Cool worked out well then. Although the synchro's in the early 6-speeds are rubbish
Might be interested in one of your front hawkeye shafts or both if they are cheap
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Not worth that price as their prices are always high but gives you an idea.
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oops you also need the 6 speed starter and the 6 speed gearbox mount so prob best to just get the gearbox cradle thrown in which will have the mount fitted to it.
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Very surprised you have been quoted "silly money" for a hawkeye WRX box as they go for silly cheep money due to the different clutch set up, they have a pull clutch. Think there is a lad on scoobynet been trying to sell one for a while and cant shift it because of the clutch scenario.
What is the code of your box?. From memory I think they are TY754VG6AA or 7AA. The problem is that I think the 6AA is the normal pull set up but the 7AA is def the opposite push clutch set up. If you are lucky you will have the push clutch as these boxes go for around £200 - 300 as they are a pain to retrofit to pull clutch cars.
Can you check the code on your current box, also try and see if there is is a round plug with a 6mm allan key slot on the box, this is located on the LHS of the box just forward of the starter. If there is no plug then you have a pull clutch gearbox.
If you are changing the box coz you def want a six speed then i would suggest you get a UK 6 speed which uses a 3.54 rear diff. That way you can retain all your rear running gear (hubs, shafts etc) as 3.54 R160 diffs are easily available, all newage bug and blobeye WRX's use this rear diff.
This would mean you would only need the gearbox, front shafts, clutch slave cylinder, flywheel and clutch, linkage and propshaft and an R160 3.54 rear diff.
If you go down the route of using an R160 rear diff you need to redrill the diff flange as the 6 speed prop uses a different PCD, easy job which takes about 10 mins.
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What were the water temps? What ECU?
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I would have a sniffer check done to be on the safe side if it is worrying you. I had similar symptoms recently in my RA and it was an airlock, no matter how hard I tried i could not clear it using normal methods. In the end I filled the radiator and block by doing the following, I removed the top radiator hose from the block water cross over pipe but left it attached to the top of the radiator, I then put a spare top hose onto the water cross over pipe. I then filled the block using the spare hose as the filling point and filled the radiator using the top hose fitted to it. Then removed the spare top hose and reconnected the top hose to the water cross over pipe it then bled up as normal.
It is possible that the thermostat has stuck closed, does the temp come up from cold very quickly?.
When the car is up to temp does it cool down when the fans come on and the fans cycle on and off?
When the car is up to temp is the top hose rock solid, it should be a little bit hard to press but not obviously solid and hard to press?
I would suggest trying to fill the system as above and seeing how you get on.
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Decent pads as well used them for a season on Subaru 4 pots. Do tend to crumble at the edges but a capable road and occasional track use.
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You cant go wrong with PF Z rated pads as for discs you get what you pay for. Give Alyn at AS Performance a ring and get some quotes and advice.
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you may be able to get these at some motor factors, not sure if machine mart stock them.
RMS Exhausts
in Scottish Scoobies
Posted
You should take a trip down to meercat and show Wullie and Scott I am sure they will be able to sort it out for you at a reasonable price. No point in binning the system when the shit work can be cut out and redone.