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You've missed out a hop Archie.

The hard line should pass through the filter first. That may have been relocated so may be closer than the standard location.

For simplicities sake I prefer to use the FPR to tee the rail return lines back together. That and the less joints you have the safer the fuel system will be. Oh, and because those unions are bloooooody expensive.

The fuel system may be man enough for the power levels stated but it's too close for comfort for my liking. I'd twin pump it from the off as a second mapping session, to go to full power after upgrading the system, would cost the same as installing the proper one in the first place IYSWIM.

Valid points Colin but it wouldnt make any sense to me to put the filter in the engine bay.

You use more hose returning 2 lines to the FPR unless its mounted on the manifold, I prefer to mount the FPR on the bulkhead out of the way, the hose and fittings are not that expensive if bought from the right place and made up yourself.

I have already been advised I need to up my current single 044 to something with more capacity so this build will be compromised on a single 044 for definate. Not fitting a swirl pot on a project which will be used on track is a huge mistake.

Looking good some nice parts there.

I think you will have a problem with your fuel lines as they stand. The ones from the fuel rails to the T-Pieces look fine but the other two look too short to do anything. You will need a feed from the hard pipe on the pax inner wing to the first T-Piece which will be your pressure feed. Then from the T-piece that will be your return line to the FPR which preferably should have AN unions fitted, then another line from the FPR to the return hard pipe on the pax inner wing.

Did you go for nitrile rubber hose and cutter type fittings or Teflon hose and olive type fittings?ired

What model of Bosch fuel pump are you using to feed this as i am not sure a single pump will be sufficient to feed a GT35 and you dont mention a swirl pot. Have you thought about the current requirements of the fuel pump and the current wiring gauge/fuse. What make and type of injectors are you using i.e brand top or side feed. Have you checked if your 1000cc injectors will have enough headroom as you might be very close to maxing them on a GT35. Top feed ID 1000cc injectors are maxing out on billet GT30's.

The PF rotors and bells are not available for the 4 pot subaru calipers and are prob a bit OTT for a road car anyway. A decent pad like PF Z rated and a decent set of discs will work well with either the subaru 4 pots or Brembo's.

Gt autocare in cambuslang 50 a wheel for 17 & 18

0800 542 0000

Is that the one that its a couple of older ladies?

If so they fixed two pretty mangled wheels for me and were superb to deal with.

Nice to see this went well. Would like to have made it up but car is still in bits.

Kept getting told off last year for going the same route as the sprint is run.

Have you tried Jim Dickson in Cumbernauld been using him for years and always had really good prices and never had an issue with an alloy and he has swapped a LOT of tyres for me on my RA.

Whats he going to do for speedo drive if using a hatch box?

emails your best bet as previously mentioned.

Will see if I can dig it out.

Already sold mate sorry, they are in Holland now.

Thanks Callum, not sure how long its been like that but suspect a fair while. It was John's old GT30 which we never stripped before fitting it so not sure when it happened. The car still made boost but would have taken MUCH longer to get there than it should have. I have to be honest I was shocked when i seen the state of the blades but suspect it is heat or water related as low compression and a bit of oil usage is the only visible issue with the engine no reason to suspect chunks of engine have eaten the blades. May know more when I strip the engine but also curious about the cause of the low compression would put money on the heads or perhaps an outside bet the rings.

Nice to read up with your build Archie. It's been a while.

No luck with the engine/turbo but without the time issue so you'll no doubt have it sussed.

Already sussed Peter bigger and better

Well back up to date and not much happening this year due to initially looking to move house but in the end decided to stay put and do some building work so decided a year out would be the best idea. That gives me time to sort things out with the house and at the same time take a step back and look to move the car on significantly.

Decided to strip some bits of f the car but before doing so done a compression test of the engine and was quite shocked as the compression was quite low on 3 cylinders but worse was to come when I took the turbo off.

The turbine wheel is badly damaged as can be seen by the pics, sorry for the poor quality. This explains a lot, the combination of the turbo and the poor compression now makes sense of why I wasnt happy with the car. I didnt feel there was enough of a difference in performance between the 20G the year before and the GT30 last year but think the reasons are obvious.

The Turbo was being replaced anyway and the engine was due to come out so neither are a problem but I have now changed my opinion of rolling roads. Had I put the car on a Dyno at the start of the year I would have known there was an issue but hey such is life. The good thing is it doesnt change the plans for the car going forward

In fact taking the year out makes it easier to sit down and make the right decisions for the car without any time pressures that have constantly led to corners being cut.

Well cant believe its almost 7 months since updating this thread. Partly to do with work commitments and partly down to taking some time away from the car.

The season ended on a fairly successful note I managed to win the Lowlands Championship outright which was very pleasing, I only managed runner up in class in the Scottish Sprint Championship which was a disappointment having won it for the previous 2 years, but saying that I was fairly and squarely beaten by Jim Kelly in his EVO. Jim had a cracking year and I just couldn't catch him so it was a well deserved win :thumb: Also picked up the class win in the EACC championship so not a bad haul for a year which wasnt the best in terms of time at home and set up of the car.

As for this year well decided to have a relaxed year and the car will be out when I get round to it. Picked up a few parts along the way. Decided the brakes needed a tweek so these arrived, new rotors required but other than that they are pretty mint condition.

Definately needed to make the car handle better so these have returned from EXE-TC after a full overhaul and some info on custom settings to make them work for me :thumb:

Decided on a change of lateral arms so sourced these.

Lots of other things happening with the handling side but we shall see how that works out :norty:

Also got another rear diff which is being tweeked to suit, but may well go down a totally different route rear diff wise.

Many more things going on behind the scenes that would be just rude to post up so will wait and see where the year takes me.

Both Steve Whitson and Alyn at As performance can have the block pinned for you. There is however no definitive proof for or against this as far as I can find.

They were all semi closed deck blocks to start with not open deck blocks.

Sorted then few been broken on scoobynet at the minute.

0191 410 3770

One of the threads on a front caliper look slightly flat compared to the rest, not totally stripped. Hopefully it should be okay when a bolt is run thorugh it, other than that a slighly bigger thread maybe? They're in decent condition other than that.

When you get the bolts run the bolt through from the opposite side to the side with the damaged thread and hopefully the bolt will clean the thread up.

The front bolts for the brembo's are matched to the caliper they are nothing to do with the hub. They are a totally different size to the rears and to subaru 4 pots. Are the threads on the caliper damaged.

99.99% certain they are M12X1.5 and 53mm long.

Give Alyn at AS Performance a ring I know he has stock of these as I had exactly the same issue and he had them in stock at a fraction of the subaru price.

The only reason to use Newage WRX hubs is if you want to easily fit the 2 pots and retain the R160 diff and shafts.

If not then go for newage STI 100 PCD rear hubs and shafts and find an R180 diff.

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/full-cars-breaking-for-spares-438/879898-fresh-in-for-breaking-2006-2-5-wrx-sl-hawkeye.html

If you retain your current hubs you will also have to chop or remove the back plates, which is a good idea anyway regardless of what hubs you use.

looms for classics are cheap to pick up its newage looms that are fetching decent money. Just make sure you get the right loom for your year of car.

Alex you need the bigger shoes that Ian godney does. But to be honest for what the shoes cost you would be far better changing the rear hubs to newage WRX hubs, that way you can fit the 2 pots and retain your R160 rear end.