arch
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Posts posted by arch
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I have one here phil you can borrow it if needed.
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The one i have hasnt but its not a road car.
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sorry cleared now not been on here for a while.
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I have a PTP one on the RA and it works very well, the MIJ one looks very similar.
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Credit to its previous owner well sorted car with all the right bits. Will definately go round corners.
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Be ready summer 2014
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I will have the rear wing from it when you break it
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There are better options around than the Mintex pads. Some of the new Pagid compounds are very good and not much more expensive.
Give Alyn at AS Performance a ring and see whats available and compare costs.
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Remove the cat in the uppipe and replace it with a standard subaru decat uppipe from a newage STI or classic although the newer the better. Also remove the cat after the down pipe. The other option for your downpipe is a Prodrive sports cat downpipe, this will pass an MOT easily as the only cat in the system and not give any real increase in restriction when compared to a 100 cel cat. I have this on my WRX blob and made 280/280.
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I have a master cylinder and servo from a very low mileage blob STI available if you need it.
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Still money in that.
Rear spoiler and bootlid, hubs, drive shafts, steering wheel, bonnet, wings, doors.
If the wings look as tidy in the flesh as they do in the picture I may be interested in them if you want to whip them off before you send it to the breaker. Just PM me a price and condition.
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The following might help with the understanding of how the system works. The diagram below is of a newage WRX inlet and exhaust. The only difference with the STI is it has no cat in the up-pipe. The cat in the uppipe is critical as it causes a significant restriction with the gas flow to the turbine. Given that the speed and flow of gases to the turbine are what determines how quickly the turbine speed increases and how fast it rotates and hence how quickly the turbo spools, its not hard to see that any restriction in the uppipe will have significant effects on spool. The way the gases are delivered to the turbine has to be the single biggest facter affecting spool. This is one reason why the twin scroll set ups and front mounted turbo instal's have superior spool.
The image below shows the newage STI PPP which consists of the Prodrive sports cat to remove some of the restriction in the downpipe while remaining MOT friendly. (This is the only cat I have on my blobeye and it passes MOT's with ease). It also has a cat delete pipe for the pipe they term the midpipe, an uprated fuel pump and an ECU remap to reflect the changes.
Compare that to the WRX PPP which has only the midpipe cat delete, a silicon intercooler hose and an ECU remap and its easy to see why the WRX PPP is poor value for money.
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To fill the wheel arch you will need a minimum of an 8" rim with a very low offset of around 20 or 22, if you go to a 9" rim you will still need to be around 30 odd with the offset.
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High performance enough to propel most of the 500bhp + road cars around sprint tracks.
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If you go to the 225 45 tyre you will increse the rolling circumfrence by 1.5% in real terms your speedo reading will be 1-2mph out so no real issues there given the accuracy of your speedo from the factory. The 225 wil also be fine on the WRX 7" rim.
As mentioned the Khumo le sport range are excellent tyres just no one knows much about Khumo appart from those of us who use the ecsta range for hills and sprints but the KU39 are excellent road tyres for the price.
Jim Dickson in Cumbernauld is a Khumo dealer and is very competative if your in this area.
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lolly pop stick in the comprerssor
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To be fair i wouldnt post or deliver to renfrew without a police escort
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I would sack the guy that put the Global Rallycross sticker on the door.
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Nah looks rubbish
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You would be better selling me that spoiler it doesnt look right on the car
, it would look so much better with an original white RA mid level spoiler 
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I dont think you can change the bearing seperately best option would be to see if you can pick as et up from someone who is breaking one. What year model is the car.
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So that'll be powerflex parts PFR69-118 & PFR69-122 and potentially aroudn £60-£70
Pretty sure whitlines would cost about that for one set! 
Maybe also a set of the extra diff support washers/bushes while i'll be in that area
(SPF1978K)There is a saying you get what you pay for
You also dont need the SPF1978K with the whiteline bushes.
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I had the powerflex ones in the RA to start with and they were ok. I changed them to the whiteline ones which are press in instead of a push fit but they are so much better but not as user friendly to fit. I am sure Alyn at AS Performance stocks the whiteline ones and the powerflex onesvfor both positions. I think there are some pics of the whiteline ones for the diff cradle on my project thread somewhere.
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Starting to see light at the end of the tunnel although still so much to do.
Diff mount fabricated today so that just needs welding. Pipemaster tool I bought for marking the profiled ends on the bars works a treat takes most of the pain out of creating fish mouth profiles gets the joints pretty close first time then it just needs a final tweek.
Also made a start on the fuel plumbing for the engine side although not much to do there so wont take long to make the necessary pipes up for that.
Next up mount all the ancilliries onto the engine and fit hinges etc to the front fibreglass doors, rears already done so nothing required there other than paint, hopefully.
Bc Br Coilovers
in Scottish Scoobies
Posted
There is no comparison between say a set of KW Var 3 and the BC's. Def not knocking the BC's, for the coat they are good value for money but the KW var 3's are far superior but then they are twice the price.
What did you go for Barry VAR 3 or clubsport