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Looking good Geo. I should have popped my hubs over to you I didnt have anything to press my bushes in and ended up getting reamed at West of Scotland engineering getting them to do it.

Bob you have a mail. Scoobnoob nice set up thats the set up I was after for the Race RA just couldnt stretch to the PF discs at this point but will eventually

Guys can you put on the list what brake set up you have and what pads you are after, without that info it will be impossible for Alyn to price. thanks I used the Ferrodo DS2500 front and back on the RA last year with standard newage 4 pots on the front and newage 2 pots on the rear and found them to be excellent. I have put the DS2500's on the rear of my road car now and have Endless racing pads on the front of the road car (Blobeye WRX). The brakes are very effective with this set up. I used the Endless racing pads as Alyn had some surplus stock at a very good price a while back and he commeneted that they were every bit as good as the DS2500's and have to be honest I cant argue. I had standard Subaru front pads on before and the difference between them and the Endless racing pads was a bit of a surprise to be honest. I had thought for a while that the brakes were rubbish on the road car but changing the front and rear pads made a massive difference. Alyn has recommended the PF Z rated pads to me for the race RA as they work very effectively from cold and are very effective on the Brembo set up.

Ok following on from the previous thread. I have spoken to Alyn at AS Performance today and he is happy to do a group buy on brake pads and I imagine discs, didnt ask about them but cant see that being a problem. He has suggested the following pad options Performance Friction and Ferrodo DS2500 or DS3000 pads. If there is any interest i will go back and get prices. I know Alyn was also offering good prices on Timing belt kits. I will start things off and once we have a few interested I will see what deals we can get. 1. Performance Friction Z-Rated pads front Brembo - Arch

Well I think i may have found the reason for my suspension issues. I had trouble getting the rear camber i wanted via the camber bolts as any adjustment to the camber bolts was bringing the strut to close to the tyre for comfort. I therefore had to achieve the camber by use of the top mounts and the adjustable lateral arms. This had the result of widening the track too far as the wheels protruded well beyond the wheel arch. This would not normally be a problem using a 7.5" rim and a 215 or 225 tyre as there would be plenty clearance for camber adjustment but me being greedy and wanting an 8" rim and 235 tyres as well as more than normal rear camber has just streatched the limits of what the AVO set up will allow. Now I could go back to a 7.5" rim and narrower tyres but where would the fun be in that. Apparently the width of your tyres is directly proportional to the size of your gonads mmm maybe a 135 would be more appropriate then The Eibach's on the right fitted fine last year and the AVO's on the left dont. The Eibachs spring seat sits 2" higher and the springs are 2" shorter than the AVO's. This would have meant the Eibach spring seat would have sat just above the tyre and would have allowed the adjustment. So the search is now on for something that will fit but its a bummer as I just spent a fortune having the AVO's compeletely overhauled by AVO with completely new internals, seals and damper struts, new springs, new helper springs and had them valved at the fast road race setting. This with a reasonably soft spring would have made a cracking set up which would have enough give to allow me to hammer over the kerbs without upsetting the car the way some cars are that are too hard and over sprung just cant. Oh well anyone looking for some new coilovers, guess the fronts will be coming off tomorrow. They have only been on the car for a few weeks and have only been pushed onto the ramp at Progrip and back off again - bummer.

If people let me know what they want group buys on i will let Alyn know. I did laugh recently. There was a group buy on scoobynet for a timing belt kit. AS Performance normal price was cheaper and inc a new tensioner did have a chuckle. Alyn is also very good for milers and Motul oils as well as clutch kits etc well pretty much everything but for a group buy we would need a few people interested in individual parts.

If there is any interest I can speak to Alyn and ask him to set up a group buy on any parts people are after. I have spoken to him about this previously and it is something he is keen to do. I will be speaking to him on Tueday anyway

Gus can you also see if they can flare the arches as well in a similar sort of fashion as the link above

Gus if you find anywhere can you let me know I am looking to have mine done again but more agressively and maybe even have the arches flared. I was pointed in the direction of this company down south but they have no one up here. http://www.archenemy.co.uk/index.htm If there are a few people we may even be able to get a deal. cheers Archie

I am aiming for 850BHP and 950 Lbs/ft prob not this year tho George Bowie does make me laugh but his front mounted air bags just arent big enough for my liking

Speak to Alyn at AS Performance you will get a better price. It all depends on your budget. Alyn advised me to change from DS2500's to Performance Friction pads on the RA and there is virtually no price difference. I was going to put DS2500's on the front of the road car but Alyn advised me to use a set of endless racing pads which were as good in terms of braking performance but were a bit cheaper and lasted longer. In terms of Discs if you can afford them the PF friction bells and rotors are the way to go but they are around £550 a pair so not cheap. If the car is a road car with the odd track day a decent set of grooved discs would be more than enough but as mentioned before give alyn a ring I use him for all my spares on the race RA and my road wrx and he hasnt been beaten on price so I dont check anywhere else now. There are so many options around and it really depends on how you use your car, your budget etc etc

The car has moved on a lot quicker than even I anticipated and to be honest thats down to John's help and a lot, an awfull lot of hours in the garage. If some work hadnt dried up it would have been like Johns car from last year apart from those hair dresser style wide arch things. Must admit to feeling I know most of the radio Clyde DJ's better than my own family the amount of time I spend in the garage mmm suzy Maguire now that opens up a new line of questioning

You should def be happy

Highly unlikely Jac

Thanks guys a few decisions to make before sat/sun

Well its been quite a while since I updated the thread mainly due to the amount of hours I have spent on the car over the last 2 months. I have made good progress with the car and sorted out a lot of the issues that were holding me up. That said I have found more and sometimes it feels like you solve one problem and find 4 new ones. The first issue that was a real problem was the gearbox to diff gearing. I have fitted a rear R180 3.9 diff but in order to mate this with my gearbox I needed to change the 1:1.1 drop gears to a 1:1 ratio. Should have been pretty straight forward pick up a set of 754 1:1 drop gears swap them over job done. Well not so simple. I managed to pick up some 1:1 754 and 752 drop gears from Ali Burrows Motorport ( http://www.aliburrowsmotorsport.com/ ). Cant recommend these guys highly enough, dealt with Ali myself and he is a cracking guy and very helpful. The problem is that there are two different types of 754 drop gears some use a normal bearing and some use a taper bearing and surprisingly enough I needed the taper bearing type and could only source the normal bearing type. The only fix open as a quick option was to use a set of 752 drop gears and a 752 rear tail casing, this is not detrimental in any way just a little more work. so once done got the gear box back in and could concentrate on sorting out the inlet manifold and engine ancilliries. The next task was to cut out the holes for the intercooler pipework and start thinking about the routing of the pipework. I made the cuts in the inner wing areas to bring the pipes through using a hole saw and and an air driven pad saw which made quite a neat job of it. Once I had done this my intention was to cut the intercooler pipework I had and use joiners to make up the necessary bends. It became obvious straight away that this would be an impossible task and would always be a bodge. I knew Peter (Fai17) had used the guys down at Meercat a lot so he contacted them and they managed to fit me in at VERY short notice. I had used Wullie and Scott for the exhaust on my road car so knew their work was first class. So I trailered the car down to kilbirnie and they sorted it out quick style using my alloy pipes. They made a cracking job of the pipework and the routing is perfect - thanks guys reall apprecuiate the help http://www.meercat-exhausts.com/ With the intercooler pipework done it was a case of starting to connect everything up. I had to use a 45 deg bend to allow the fitment of the filter and a new inlet filter trumpet from RCM, big thanks to Tom Hayes from RCM for all his help I also had to mount and plumb the remote resevoir for the power steering which was a pretty quick job. I also had to fit the cage which took quite a while and fought me all the way but its in now and will get some pics later. I had a few fuel leaks when I leak checked the system so had to remake a few unions which was time consuming but all sorted now. Next I had to get the geometry set up so it was off to progrip in Bonneybridge for John to apply some Stevenson settings This gave me a chance to get some pics of the underside that didnt invole me lying on my back on the floor under the car. This really has not been a smooth build this year and has caused me no end of grief. I still have running issues and was unable to get the car mapped today due to these. Sorry Andy This is a bit of a concern but hopefully will find a solution very soon. I also have some suspension niggles, but hopefully I will be able to this sort out. I also have to rewire the alternator feed to give it a switched 12v supply but that is a quick and easy job. Oh and sort the breather hose the copper joiner is temporary honest

I reckon 3-4 mins will empty my tank

So how much does that spoiler weigh Andy

Russel thanks there are a number of places inc Merlin which I had already priced and to be honest the price just didnt make sense given it is almost £30 just for a single 180 deg bend. Appreciate the thought tho

Sorted peter thanks

Connor thanks but dont think they would have this pipework on the shelf

Had thought of them and meercat but doubt C+C will be able to do it as quick as I need it done.

Anyone know of anyone around the Glasgow area who can fabricate some intercooler pipework

Was only offering advice and i would certainly not be putting any thing on my Race RA that might "fail" I think the stopping thing is a bit more critical on a track car than on a road car as the level and intensity of use is much more extreme

Thats quite expensive, I paid less for my Performance friction pads for the RA and less again for the Endless racing pads for the 4 pots on my road WRX. I am very impressed with the endless racing pads and feel they are every bit as good as the DS2500's but cheaper and they last longer