iain_ogston

My 95 WRX RA is still going strong. Has an STI6 engine and mostly STI/aftermarket parts now. No reason to change, it's still pushing 350bhp and bodywork is clean. The new age models don't appeal to me (fugly), and the newest STIs looks like SEATs, so won't be going there. If I change car will be to a classic 911.

Feel of the Toyos is different based on the size of the tyre in my experience. I can attest to this because I run them on all four corners of my scoob, and have recently fitted them to my MR2 turbo rears (previously Bridgestones). Couldn't get Bridgestones in the MR2 size for some reason (seem to have stopped making that particular size) so changed to the Toyo having been pleased with them on scoob. I run my MR2 rears wider than Scoob tyres. On the scoob they feel more planted, whilst on the MR2 they get more of a wiggle on. You get used to it, I'm back to powersliding the MR2 with confidence

Theres a Japanese internet site offering parts which can source these from Subaru Japan if you have a part number. Did have it bookmarked but laptop got rebuilt so have lost it. They quoted me a reasonable price for an Sti part I was then able to source in UK a while back. Delivery timescale was two weeks I think. Google.....

Wow these cars are going cheap! Pat would of been selling the nicer ones for 10k+ I might even bid on one Don't tell the wife.... It's a pity the orange skyline engine is out - it's an ex drift motor I recall. That beast had two massive turbos and was running something like 700bhp+ at 2 bar according to Pat. I've had eyes on most of these cars in the showroom and they are in good nick externally. The WRX ones were all prepped last time I was up and looked very nice and shiny. Someone is going to get some bargains there.

Can anyone recommend a good garage in the Aberdeen area for servicing and MOT of imported Subarus? My usual garage is shut down. My car is due a service and a MOT soon and I want to put it someplace decent (+ it currently runs no CAT which is a problemo)

275 quid sounds about top of the ballpark price range. I was slightly less than that for my original STi motorsport one years ago (think it was 5.4 kg) fitted when an organic clutch went on. Now running an even lighter flywheel which came with my OS Gikken twin-plate racing clutch as a matched/balanced pair. As posted above, engine braking is much less, engine is very blippy and pick up is greatly improved. If you combine a lightened flywheel with correct exhaust/porting/map tweaks turbo lag all but disappears and low end grunt is superb.

Seeing as you are running 400bhp you'll have an aftermarket ECU and remap so lumpy idle needn't be a problem.

My voltage sit at the same level irrespective of driving conditions/engine load. I've not seen the voltage move at all since the regulator went on (not even +/- 0.1v on the digital readout) Only wired up the grounding wires cos they came with the kit, wasn't expecting any real benefit from them since car is mint. One thing I have noticed is that car starts quicker. Fires almost instantly on key turn - hot or cold engine, hot or cold weather, doesn't make any difference.

I have a combined earthing and voltage stabilisation kit. Can't do any harm can it! Only noticable benefit is that lights are steady under all driving conditions.

I've used them a few times. Excellent service, you can phone them up to discuss anything listed on the website (and prices!) Very quick delivery from memory.

I generally work out I need a litre just under every three miles in my modified RA.

That weight of flywheel will definitely make the engine easier to blip up the revs. You can tell a car with a lightened flywheel when it's revved. Aftermarket ECU will help with lumpy idle problems (hunting). You could also fit lightened pullies, take more inertia out of the system.

I have one of these fitted along with my APS FMIC. Excellent valve, vents quietly at low boost (small chamber) but when second chamber opens it shifts a lot of air and is quite loud. As you can see from the pictures on the website this valve opens all the way, leading to an unobstructed chamber. I looked at a couple of other makes at my local specialist which didn't do this and so obstructed the chamber. He recommended the APS valve. Not cheap, but worth the money.

I had exactly the same problem on my MR2 - the temp guage just wouldn't go past C unless I was stuck in traffic. Was the thermostat - when it came out it was in two pieces!! (should be a one piece item lol)

I had an order from them. Took a while to arrive so I don't think they had it in stock (although website said they did). Was well packaged and cheap so I didn't mind (it was nothing I urgently needed).

try another subaru dealer. T&C in Aberdeen supplied cam and crank sensors for my MY95 from stock late last year, and yes it's an import.

Bit of an open question.... What power level are you running? What sort of use does car get? Do you want a lightened flywheel or could you just skim the one you have?

If the car is modified Millers CFS 10/60 is excellent. Ran my old 95 block on it, and now using it in the STI6 block. My local specialist buys it in bulk, but you can get it off ebay or any good motorsport dealer.

new sensor from subaru is in region of a hundred quid or thereabouts I think. Sure some scrapper/breaker can get you one cheaper if it turns out to be the problem.

I get this all the time in the scoob and MR2 which both have turbo timers... park in Tesco/Asda, walk away from car. Concerned citizen shouts: "Excuse me, Excuse me, you've left your car running!" OR "Excuse me, Excuse me, you've left your lights on!" If I had a pound for every time.......

sounds like classic symptoms of a cam or crank sensor on the way out. These are magnetic hall effect sensors which degrade over time. I had this problem on my 95 model, and it got progressively worse to the point car wouldn't start at all when warm (even after a 1/4 mile drive to nearest petrol pump). Car would start 1st time when cold. I admit I was lazy and just kept bumping up the cranking times on the PFC to get it to start

The cost of an engine rebuild will be entirely dependent on the parts chosen! new block? new pistons? new rods? gaskets? porting and polishing of heads? injectors? Good parts are not cheap.

Buying a second car to save on fuel is a great suggestion! Unfortunately I bought a tweaked MR2 turbo which also has horrendous fuel economy

I phoned Brian Downie 4 years ago to enquire about getting my newly purchased subaru serviced. The first thing he asked was "did you buy it from me". When the answer was "no" it ended up being a very short conversation. Haven't tried again and went elsewhere for all my servicing and upgrades/rebuilds. However I know of some people who did buy their car from him and say that they are great cars, they get great service and that he really knows his stuff. 35 quid an hour for big jobs is reasonable, that's about what I've been paying for all my rebuild work elsewhere locally.

I recently got my car undersealed. Guys at my usual garage put it on ramp, blasted any dirt/rust spots off with a wire brush drill attachment, then painted it with something. After that it went to a local garage where it was fully undersealed. Cost me two hours labour for the clean, + 110 quid for the undersealing. Well worth it. (Acid - this was in Aberdeenshire)