iain_ogston

Lady at the propeller garage (Bucksburn) informed me this morning that the Shell there is having a V-Power day next Tuesday 04-Sep. 7am - 7pm Vpower same price as normal unleaded. And a Ferrari will be on the forecourt for inspection. She said it would be a bonus for regulars like me! I agreed, will be taking both cars for a tank.

Wuz The flywheel was brand new 6k ago too. lightened STi motorsport 5kg? version. I'm going to try adjusting the clutch in a bit first to see if there is any life left in it at all. Not too hopeful since I dialled the AVC-r down to 0.8 bar (i.e. about half! boost) and it was still slipping. If that doesn't work I will go for a new clutch May time. Have just bought a minter of an MR2 turbo so that's getting all my attention at the moment

It's an exedy organic which is on there! Would it just be one rated for too low a torque? Was fine when I got it fitted gripped nicely but now slips badly under hard acceleration and I can't get the car to boost past 1.1 bar since it won't load up properly. Is it worth getting an organic rated for 400+ or would it be better to bite the bullet and get a proper plated? clutch. What's the ballpark cost for an organic clutch rated for 400+ lb/ft?

My organic clutch is worn away after 6k even though it was supposed to easily handle my car's 350bhp. When the boost kicks in the engine revs away but the car doesn't accelerate with it. Think the speed at which the revs kick in under boost has wrecked it, since my engine is very free revving as everything is lightened (internals, flywheel etc). Anyone got any recommendations for a decent clutch?

Welcome! I'm in inverurie, in a fairly standard looking red RA.

An RA is thoroughly recommended if you can live with the gearing.

As the owner of an M reg WRX RA (slightly upgraded) I can heartily recommend an RA if you can live without silly toys on your car and the gear ratios (cruising at 70mph = 4000RPM). Want sound deadening, electric windows, electric mirrors, central locking, aircon, hear your stereo over the exhaust and turbo? Buy an E class Merc.....

Toyo T1R are excellent for the money, especially in the dry (don't use my car in the wet, it wheelspins too much). Mine were cheaper than 100 a corner but not 18". Recommended.

I use an apexi b setting of about 0.75 bar when the roads are wet or damp. Stops it wheel spinning in 4th so I make it home. Dry days get the full 1.5 bar treatment.

care to elaborate on the sandpaper theory? Where is the crank sensor and how does sandpaper help? Clean it or something?

Could be the crank sensor, that was suggested to me off forum. Car has been getting progressively harder to start over the last month and now won't fire at all. Car is a MY95, but not much standard in engine bay at all (STi 6 block for a start) so I don't think the standard ECU is an option. Think I will have to get the AA to tow me to the garage!

My scoob just won't start! Battery was low, but even jumped up to another car it just turns over without catching. Fuel pump primes so think fuel should be getting through. Have tried apexi PFC cranking settings (everywhere from 20-60ms) but can't get it to fire. Anyone got any suggestions?

I've got a tuned RA which took me three years in several stages. Drop me a PM if you have any specific questions. Intercooler and turbo next spring to finish it off.......

Do you commute via a car ? Yes Do you take your Scooby ? If the road is dry otherwise wheelspin city.... How many miles do you commute to work ? 20 How long does it take you ? 15 mins. Do you ever take a long way home ? Oh yes indeedy

Anybody with an AVC-R know how to get it into "self learn" mode? I went into my B settings, set boost target to 1.0 bar, duty to 50%. All gears are "O" active for self learn and start duty is zero for all gears. Gear judge settings are 120%, 75%, 50%, 30%, 25% or something like that. Drove home from work expecting AVC-R to self learn boost/duty but it didn't!! Anyone know if there's a step I missed here?

Anyone recommend somewhere in Aberdeen (shire) to buy Millers octane booster. Should really be running my car with CVL in it.....

What you do with a car is personal preference. Personally I bought my car to drive it on the open road. Not to sit around showing everyone how loud my new 6x9s and bass box can play Britney Spears tunes (actually I don't even have rear speakers fitted). My engine has been completely rebuilt and tuned but not so I can sit down the beach revving it, chatting about the "tone" of my exhaust and wasting optimax at a pound a litre. But thats my personal opinion. I'm not interested in the cruising scene. However, I know some young guys who spend nearly their entire wage on cars or mods. Some drive new model EVOs, some old Corsas etc. with "mods". And they like to show them off (however crap we might think they are). So they need somewhere to meet and do it. The problem with the booly is that the cruisers sit next to the populated area - the new Stewarty Mile flats and the road up to them. If they sat up on the beach front (the road heading out from the ballroom) nobody would give a toss since they would be out of earshot of everyone. If they get moved on from there then they will congregate somewhere else just shifting the problem. As for chav mobiles being destroyed, taste was never part of the MOT........ Oh and I'm told by the youngsters that having a nice motor is the way to secure the Chavette of your dreams......

Sorry I couldn't make the rearranged date. Car is up getting a flush and oil change.

I've got equal length headers. As above, at idle car is quiet as a mouse. Once the revs go up she just screams.

My 95 RA TD05 runs 1.5 bar sustained no problem. However, anything above standard boost needs air and fuelling mods. If you don't fit the likes of Apexi PFC, AVCr, fuel pump, injectors and fuel pressure stabiliser and get a remap before running bigger boost it's likely to lean out or knock. When you've got those items, TD05 turbo whine is nice Once I get my front mount intercooler I will be looking for a new turbo, probably something based on a modified TD05 like the AFP5-20.

http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html Useful site for transmission codes giving gear and drive ratio charts. Rab is right, pre production line RAs are individual. DCCD was a post production fit, and if the owner didn't want one, or there wasn't a switch to hand it might not have been fitted. Mine has switches for all the mirror electrics etc., bu no wires connected to them, so sometimes they didn't even bother with blanking plates. You notice funny things like some cars have pillar aerials, some have rear aerials, some have NO aerial lol and so on.

That boy is a right tube.

Count me in (if the date suits)

I paid mine by cash. Two crisp twenties oot o my wallet. BUT I will chip in to keep them sweet. Don't japerformance know the reg of the car who didn't pay?

I asked japerformance gent what torque mine was doing and he said come back so he could wire into the ECU to get RPM, since the ht reader is inaccurate. Suppose I should get it fixed, since it appears my actuator is struggling beyond 1.2 bar and I run 1.5 all the time! Rolling road only pushed the car to 1.35 bar, so more to come from my motor once it's all fixed up and possibly remapped again (it's too rich at low load and ignition timing could be much tighter - more power). Might as well get an intercooler and turbo while I'm at it lol