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Vimmy

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Everything posted by Vimmy

  1. That sounds great Myles, I was after just that thing to match the backbox..
  2. Matty/Iain, thanks for the confirmation on the number plate, my new birthday plates turned up today I'm just waiting for the cups and and saucers to arrive and I'll be set I think the number plate would look better on the bonnet, far out of reach of boulders etc. Myles yes funny you should mention it, I have a date with Bob Rawle in sunny swindon at the end of the month, hopeully fitting a Simtek ecu/board and live map to suit. I plan, boss depending, to have a decat Afterburner downpipe and centre pipe in place too to match the FMIC. My biggest dilemma is should I opt for the optional (not free) Antilag(switchable) and LauchControl option too, I dont know if I should do it or not - oh the decisions a girl has to make I'm thinking of painting the middle black grill blue to match the rest of the car too, I've seen a few P1's done that way and its looks rather nice
  3. I was thinking about that, but at the time wasn't too sure on the legality point of view from the federalez. It would look more aesthetically pleasing there too and not get knocked by speed bumps and stones. Do you know if its legal to have it there? If i put it on and the fedz catch me it might rip off the paint when pulling orf again Any thoughts welcomed...
  4. Yeah I think a big beanbag is required, nothing like a numb bum working on a car
  5. And finally bumper back on, with the fog lights and the fog light brackets still in place which was a bonus.....
  6. After a damn good bit of drilling, sawing, banging and bashing the FMIC was in place .....
  7. I'm liking it muchly...I only popped into Iain's for a cuppa and went back out to find someone had run off with the front of the car...
  8. Aye definitely happy, I forgot to show you the filter shroud though, I'll pop by on friday and see if its any good to you. Cheers, Col
  9. Once again many thanks Iain for the help with the FMIC, I wasn't expecting to get as far as we did on Monday. To say I'm pleased with the end result would be an understatement First time cut and fit for the bumper was a bonus too. All I need to do now is to cut my air filter shield and connect up the two remaining pipes and its out with the TMIC for me Time for a reverse scoop now too, get rid of that nasty hot air I have a couple of photos with the whole front end missing, when I get the pesky things off me phone. Thanks again Iain Cheers, Col.
  10. Great news on passing the wife test, a bigger challenge than an MOT with no cats was it the back box fitted or more bits ? I'm looking to replace my ageing pipework very soon and was going to get the afterburner downpipe and centre too Gotta love the pop's bangs even more now tho' Cheers, Col.
  11. I've not had any problems so far,had two set of discs off them, lasted well and so did the zinc coating, however my last set have been delayed as they bit they used to make the smaller grooves in the disc face was broken - I'll give them the benefit of doubt and wait 'til friday and see what happens
  12. All the ideas put up look a lot of fun, I was going to mention some sort of track day event. I've never been round a 'proper' track and I'm sure the M25 doesn't count, and to be able to go round with the aid of more advanced/experienced drivers at the helm pointing out decent lines, braking points etc would be a lot of fun. I have been for a spin in a 911 at Rockingham laat year for my birthday but as good as it was 5 laps just wasn't long enough. Having looked at prices for Castle Combe at around £170 its a lot of money so don't know if its a worth while venture.
  13. Hi Guys, if you were after some pads and discs I'd take a wee look at CRN Products I got a set of 294mm / Vented / 88 groove discs with a silver zinc coating for the centres and a set of EBC red stuff DP31200C ceramic pads with P+P all for £165. The pads retail around the £100 mark a set, the cheapest TarOX disc with 88 grooves are around the £200 quid mark. CRN make their own discs, and can be made to pretty much any configuration you want (within reason) I've had 40 grooves on the last rear and front sets and they have lasted a damn good while now, the yellow stuff (front) pads are now down to the metal . Its time to retire the 'lil two pots and put the 4pots on, not huge but bigger than whats on there now so its time to fit my bigger calipers, discs and pads. The braided hoses are in place and all that left is to fit the master cylinder bracket to finally give me some decent stopping power Got a spare set of 2 pots now - i wonder if they can be converted to fit the rears. Anyhoo I'll stop rambling now, Cheers, Col
  14. Happy Birthday Andy, that cake looks too good to eat, very nice of Stu to make you one Cheers
  15. Thanks for having a look Iain, much appreciated Would I get away with using a small air filter type thing like the ones used when you vent the cam covers to atmosphere or is that the wrong thing? Would one of these be a better option? Cheers, Col
  16. Nice one, have a fun time over there
  17. Hi Iain, I have checked with the powers that be in work and my services are not required for the next few sundays, have you got some spare time over the next few sundays to squeeze in a few hours work? Cheers, Col.
  18. Hi Guys, I've seen a few threads about removing the carbon canister. Having wanted to do it myself to stop them nasty vapours getting back into the air intake I went through all the pdf's and other docs I have to make some sense of it all and have documented it below. It should apply to most Imprezas, although I can only verify this for mine. If anyone has a few minutes to spare could they check over my ramblings, I think I have it right and wanted to give something back to the forums in the way of helpful diagrams/how-to's etc. Anyhoo here goes: Break A: EVAP Line - from fuel tank to be passed into the canister and purged (1)Remove short hose from the two way valve to the canister (2)Reattach this to the evaporation line where it comes into the engine bay and vent via another rubber hose (to atmosphere) under the bottom of the engine bay. The evap line is one of the three lines next to the fuel filter. Two of these lines (fuel in from filter and fuel return to tank) have jubilee clips holding them on, the 3rd (evap line) has a small push clamp as it is under less pressure than the fuel line pressure. Break B: Throttle Body Line - where Purge Control Solenoid Valve has opened under ecu control to allow TB intake vacuum/pressure to pull tank vapour through from canister. Remove the rubber hose from the throttle body (#2) that goes to the Purge Control Solenoid Valve(#3) (under right hand side of Inlet manifold) then place a plug/bung onto throttle body (where hose had been) to stop leaks to and from the throttle body. Break C: Canister to Purge Control Solenoid Valve line - where tank vapour is pulled out of the canister under ecu control to the Throttle Body Remove the rubber hose from the hard line (which is the other end of the Purge Control Solenoid Valve) to the canister. The other rubber hose at the far end is still place but serves no purpose. B above has removed the other PCSV hose prior to this. Break D: Aux Purge Control Valve - where canister vapour feeds into cold air intake pipe (between turbo inlet pipe and MAF) Remove the rubber line from the APCV to the air intake pipe and plug the hole in the air intake pipe. Reference Info: Pressure Sensor #4 The pressure sensor alternately receives the intake pressure in the intake manifold/collector chamber and the atmospheric pressure pressure and converts the pressure values into signals and sends these to the ecu. The atmospheric pressure is measured by this device, the intake pressure is received downstream from the Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve. Reference Info: Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve #5 The PSSSV switches the intake air pressure from the intake manifold/collector chamber to the pressure sensor under ecu control, when off the pressure sensor only reads local measured atmospheric pressure. Reference Info: Valve / T-Piece The Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve #5 is shown (lifted from the Subaru maintenance diagrams - Inlet manifold connections) at point F to read intake pressures at the collection chamber, however, after mapping the various pipes and fittings in my car this PSSSV is connected via some kind of 1 way valve (H) to a small plastic T piece (G). The second hose off the T piece carries on to the inlet manifold/collection chamber (F) as normal. This third hose off the T piece now connects to the Aux Purge Control Valve (E). I have to assume that at this point that as the car is running along there is positive pressure in the collection chamber and this pressure (in the direction from F to E )forces the Aux Purge Control Valve open to allow vapour to be sucked through from the canister to the air intake pipe. Break E: Aux Purge Control Valve to T piece Remove the rubber hose from the middle port of the plastic T piece (E) that connects to the smaller diameter connector on the Aux Purge Control Valve. Plug up the now opened centre T piece (E) to remove any pressure/vacuum leaks. This should leave the Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve connected via the two opposing legs of the T piece to the inlet manifold/collection chamber. Thats about it, fairly straight forward I don't like doing stuff to the car unless I understand what I should be doing, although that hasnt stopped me before Thanks for taking the time to read this, Cheers, Col PS piccy below
  19. Ah cool many thanks for the info, mind is made up now, free flow pipes with no silencers or high flow cats If in doubt I'll buy a bung for the rear box for long journeys with the family, and a set of ear plugs for me to protect me from the wife
  20. How are the new brakes Myles, do they have a long run in time. I'm changing my puny 2 pots for 4 pots when I get my new discs and pads and wondered how big a difference changing up disc sizes made. Cheers, Col
  21. I can get to Swindon and Oxford for free now, special parking rates too - just stick on my lil' blue badge and its car abandonment ahoy The big birthdays are the best ones
  22. Hehe, thanks guys, yes the merry old age of 28 has finally caught up with me at last. I know I may appear to look slightly older, but I had a bugger of a paper round Had to buy the cakes in work today too, that cant be right - my birthday and I have to buy them??? It goes against all my Scottish beliefs to pay for something Hmm 42 is a strange number, when I got to 40 every birthday after that I started counting backwards so in reality I am actually 38 I need to speak to the site admins to change their clock system. Cheers Col, (working my way thru a rather large bottle of Cap'n Morgans spiced as I type) p.s. I thought Matt looked older than 28 too does that make me the youngest here ?
  23. Yeah I totally agree, I wasn't there at the time to see them using the stone riddled sponges in the cold soapless water
  24. Sorry Stu, being a tight fisted git I do it (try anyway) myself although one of the guys I work with had his car done at the petrol station /carwash & valet complex at the Asda Walmart in sunny north Swindon, he was very happy with a full valet, but he does drive an Alfa tho' so I guess he cant be too choosy The car was spotless afterwards though, the girl doing it took a good 90 minutes on the job. I don't know how long a valet takes elsewhere to compare it against tho'. Cheers, Col.
  25. If you want to trial it out, you can use my rota's first as long you use reddish blue C'mon the reds
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