Vimmy

To try and remove a bit of confusion with the previous diagrams see attached which shows the Logic switching and signal boards to make some sense

Ok this one shows multiple thermocouples being switched via relays which are controlled via a 4 way switch. I want to expand the switch idea to use IC's instead with an up and down set of buttons/switches which then control a counter to give an unlimited amount of switchable inputs (based on the similar number of relays). With this up/down switch idea I want to add a small alphanumeric led display to show which numbered sensor is in use but this is still being designed and tested at the moment. The switch hasn't been implemented as yet as I'd prefer the IC route as its not far off and is shown just for clarity. I will get some pics tomorrow when the shack has defrosted a bit to show the small size of the boxes used to house the differing modules. This can all fit in a bigger box, depending on application, the sky is the limit really . Multiple.bmp

Ok chaps another few hours trying to document the build so far. the piccy below (24bit bmp taken from Visio) may look a bit fuzzy but I can mail you the better quality version direct if you wish. This shows a basic/single thermocouple kit connected to the (interface/compensating amplifier) AD595 chip and then onto the Anders OEM335A module which then displays the output temp with 1 decimal point ie 10.1 / 56.3 etc etc

Ah yes, its a secret patented design, the pics are there really, you just have to find 'em

Hi Guys, I have been working on a wee project in my shack, with time allowing and a temperature above 6 degrees, to set up a system to monitor air temps either around the engine bay or inside air intakes etc. The most basic system uses a standard K-type thermocouple connected to a chip that reads the low output voltages (0.049mV) per degree centigrade and convert them to a more respectable value of 10mV/Deg C. This then is fed into a mini voltmeter/lcd display which then converts every 10mv/Deg C. to a 1 on the counter/display device so that it reads directly any temperature measured by the thermocouple. I've not done any proper design/electronics for a few years and have got the bug again, so much so that I've extended the device to read off of up to (so far) 4 different thermocouples to watch different temps at various points in the engine bay/air intake system using remotely switch relays. I have other plans to have the relays, when switched in, to show on another display which sensor number is being measured. The current method is using a cumbersome 4 way switch which is going to be hard to mount in the car without looking 'fugly'. I have some parts on order to put together brass compression glands so that these thermocouples can be put into the intercooler pipe work (for example) to measure the air intake temps at different stages. The whole idea came about as I couldn't justify spending lots of money on 'branded' devices and displays and wanted to watch what the car was doing with its age and mileage ever increasing. It was also designed to be easily repeatable and be used from off-the-shelf easy to find parts which did not cost the earth. If anyone wants a copy of the diag's to build their own, I can post it up, it still in the experimental 'Heath-Robinson' stage and not a 'production' version as yet but not far off. The last thing had in mind with this project was for it not to turn into a 'fast n furious' system with under car lights et al, but thats given me another idea....... Cheers, Col

For me weekdays, but not Mondays or Wednesdays due to training, are easier and after work hours too but any time during the month is good. Weekends are hard to confirm so I never put my name down, not that I'm not interested in the meets at the time, but i'd rather not put down my name to have to withdraw it and waste peoples time

With my current work load over the last year or so, with having to work many late nights and weekends, trying to get to these meets is a damn hard thing to achieve. I want to come along to them all, but finding the time is hard and when I do get some time I find I've not spent much time with the family. Hopefully things will calm down with a lot of our projects going live on the interweb so meaning a bit more time for getting out. The only time i do get free is after 10 pm and I'm to be found tinkering away in the 'shack' working on projects for the car... The mid week meets are a hoot and, for me anyway, these I find easier to get the time to attend, boss permitting anyway

Nice pipework there, where did you get the air temp sensor from? Does it feed direct to a meter or some other circuit/amp to take care of the small voltages off the sensor. I'm currently building a display (with 4 hex digits) for the temp sensor which then runs into a relay box so that it can switch 4 sensors in and out from a remote switch. Im a curious chap, it gets the better of me most times

Does that mean no January sales either then?? dang them Mayans for spoiling my fun. Good to hear that they identified and cleared the fault code, is it possible for it to latch again or was it possibly down to a one off error. Problem with these cars nowadays their complicated and often a fault is due to something else totally unrelated elsewhere. Bless those little flangesprockets

Jeepers I didn't think it would be so finnicky (is that a word?) about a small change like that, as you say why have things gotten so complicated, why cant it just be simple. l blame the ozone friendly warriors, no point worrying about inflated exhaust outputs anymore, 2012 and the Mayans are going to get us first I'll keep to the simple stuff and get back to my soldering glad I have a Classic now, built to last.

Hi Mark, I agree it could be any sensor that's brought it on, I guess reading the slow/fast flashes on the CEL when the 'diagnostic' plugs are connected may give a further indication. If all thats been added to cause this is the de-res pipe, is the system that sensitive to change that other sensors apart from the the O2 pick up the gas flow change?

I never thought about getting a boss welded to the pipework for temp sensing, I was going to drill into the pipe and make a clamp that secures a k type thermocouple in place. I don't know if you've ever been to the Autospeed site, but I've spent lots of time at this site and this Intercooler spray caught my eye http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0527 It's probably aimed more for warmer climates but any extra drop in intercooler temperatures has to be good Have you made any layout changes to the engine bay wrt air filter shrouds etc, I've been at the aluminium sheets with a hammer and hack saw and started doing my own version, very Heath Robinson I also made one of these side vent covers using foam to stop air going around the side of the radiator and hopefully when i get time to do the same for the FMIC, good article here on Autospeed http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Intercoo...70/article.html then finished it off with a homemade radiator shroud, costing pennies Cheers, Col.

Yeah that would be good to know what the issue was. I'm looking to go down the Catless/Highflow Cat path when mine totally 'rusts' (with a little bit of help) through so and expect problems such as this to crop up. I built myself a AFR reader from a kit which displays either the direct O2 sensor (narrowband) output or the AFR value and comes in handy for watching the O2 sensor outputs as it goes rich/lean whilst driving.

Aye was a giggle, nice pub too, not been there before. Damn shame I could only drink coke, good to see you there Flathead I was looking forward to a sprightly run home on the backroads, but by the time I got home the oil temps had only risen to normal levels as I got to the door I need an oil 'interwarmer' to get it up quicker so to speak

Some good snap there matey, some of the things like the dccd I've heard of but never seen in the flesh. What's the matter with the new battery, wouldn't it still be under warranty? I was going to make a gag about them not 'charging' you for it, but thought it would be in bad taste When you put on the FMIC did you have to move any of the radiator fans to get it to fit without the fan blade fouling the pipework? Cheers, Col

Umm isn't that light to say that the rubber band need re-tightening i.e. CEL=Check ELastic, I think that the 'Classics' had the real engines and when the shape changed they put in rubber bands Wouldn't the fact that now that the higher flow cat is letting more gasses and heat through and at a faster rate that the O2 sensor is seeing slightly cooler air/gasses and reporting a change on the O2 reading. If the original Cat was in place, the O2 sensor is calibrated to read a certain temperature and gas mixture due to the Cat letting it pass through at a predetermined rate and so the O2 output is known. Now that this predetermined rate has been altered its getting confused?? I'm probably barking up the wrong tree, so I'll leaf it to the pro's

Hi Iain, sorry for the lateness but I would like to help out where I can. I'm up for some sort of donation or beverage based offerings or both if it helps. Not being a big beer drinker what sort of 'beverages' would be considered good drinking material, I take it coke and pepsi are out of the question

Sounds good, any photos of the beastie?

Someone mention Classics, count me in then

Ah cool, many thanks Iain, would Sunday or early next week be ok with you, I'm out tonight and away to the Outlaws tomorrow so will be in need of a rather large stiff drink so wont be able to drive We could compare the size of our wishbones then too Cheers, Col

Hi Iain, I read somewhere in the myriad of threads in the forums ( I cant find it anywhere) here about the replacement air pipe you made/installed between the air filter and the turbo inlet pipe. I remebmer seeing the picture you put up showing the red pipework, was that a 76mm ID silicone hose you used or wider? I found a few places on fleabay that do similar 45degree hoses and a 76mm one would/should fit nicely. Did you use one of this size or bigger (allowing higher airflow). Also did you have to fit any extra piping to the hose ie a metal/plastic barbed hose connector to cater for the carbon canister air output back to recirc back into the system again? Cheers, Colin

Sport cat, nah go free flow and keep your cat for the MOT station

Hi guys, I have spotted a set of lateral arms for sale (from a UK MY98) and a set of alloy wishbones from a JDM MY97 sti. Do you know if the wishbones from the JDM classics are a standard fits accross the UK classic shape cars ? Cheers, Colin

Yes there's quite a few clean bays that must have takne ages to do, but I guess done it stages is achievable. Now I see what you mean about keying, it makes sense thinking about it, how many coats of laquer would you recommend. What grade of paper would you say would be ok for the laquered coats, I have some 400 and 800 sheets but have read of others using 1200? Some of the other parts I was going to do may suffer from heat from the back of the engine bay itself, does the laquer withstand engine bay temps in general? Sorry for the questions, im a newbie to this

Thanks for that, I'll put another coat on and see how it looks then, dummy question here but what do you mean by a key? Yeah now that I have this bit almost done, it would be kind of rude not to other parts as well. My radiator fan is a tad rusty around the fan blade edges so I might remove that and clean it up, perhaps give it a black spray whilst it's out, save any firther rust build up too Problem then is at what point do you stop