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API are pretty good. They are near Leamingtom Spa.

The ideal scenario is obviously for the two insurance companies to hit both of you with excesses and removal of no claims bonus. Hence they say, never admit liability. A more sensible action would be for one side to be found liable as that would halve the cost to the two insured parties. It might even make good sense for the innocent party to help the other out with their excess. I don't think this common sense approach takes place very often though.

I am guessing if it is running rich/cold, the petrol will wash the oil off the bores and that is where premature wear may be caused.

This firm has quite a reputation. May be worth doing a little more research before you take the plunge.

Question number one - do you want to track it, or just for road use?

This advice is worth more than two pence

I think the difference between what a tyre comes against on the track cf normal road use is too great for there to be such a thing as an "allrounder". The only road tyre I've used on track that didn't fall to pieces from excessive heating are RE070s. Having said that - there is no rule that says you have to rag the a*** off your car on the track. With a little moderation I am sure that normal road tyres would be OK. Personally I have two sets of wheels - Michelin PS2s on one set and RE070s on the other (track and summer use). Once you have sourced the second wheels, the tyres don't cost more as they last twice as long. You just have to have somewhere to store them and not mind changing them.

IM are International Motors. I think they do all the importing and Subaru business in the UK. They are the big puppeteer behind all of the Subaru dealers in this country.

SKILL

Let's put it this way, my STI PPP is a lot better since I had a remap! Go figure.

I'd have thought cranking the engine at low/no oil presure is more likely to cause wear/damage than just starting it up and getting decent oil pressure. Priming filter can't be a bad idea though. However other high performance engines don't always have filters where this is possible and they don't seem to blow up. I guess it probably doesn't matter. I must say that I am always surprised by how tenaciously the oil sticks to the dipstick after long periods of not running the engine.

Sounds very similar to a method of contaception!

If you can afford it, the type 25 AST is the way to go. Lowers car, handles much better and gives a softer ride. A combination you wouldn't have thought possible!

You get what you pay for matey

It appears that this company will soon cease trading. Long old haul for a dealer service from sunny Southend!

The 2.5 doesn't have equal length headers, just an over efficient silencing system. If you want a bit of burble, you'll need another back box or whatever. I have had 2 l. and 2.5 l. Personally I would always go for a bigger torquier lump. Depends how much you enjoy changing gears I guess.

Don't be so awkward.

So if I murder my wife, that would just be between us, and of no interest to the law - hmm, begins to look more appealing :kerstsmiley:

Rev limits are imposed when you are using their car - not your own :icon_rendeer:

Nice oneTony. I guess it is necessary for me to conclude that some Scoob drivers are less skilled than others!

Looks good, but I don't need brakes at the mo. If I needed to replace my discs, I would be right up for it.

On the race track.

How did she manage to pull him?

I get a clunking from the rear in first when turnig sharply under power in first. Worse with DCCD on. Can't figure what it is. It is the same sound as I recall from a broken engine mount on a Mini. Let us know if you get a diagnosis.

Sounds interesting. Have to have a look on Dec 9th