wrxmania

Bad luck - that's a bad news car - time to get rid me thinks! Hope you get it all sorted. You got your car back Andy? Brian []

Big thanks to Spooks (with contributions from Geo (Cusco Kid) too). After many hours preparation and lots of hours yesterday, finally the next phase of modifications were fitted. The car now has a new radiator cap (thanks Fee), new SUBARU 4 pots, painted and re-con'd with SUBARU discs and Pagid RS 4.2.1 pads and at the rear OMP pads with new standard discs. The rear calipers were stripped and refinished to match the new black finish on the 4 pots (white lettering). Then Motul 5.1 brake fluid was used with Goodridge Blue Braided hoses all round. To finish it off it has a set of solid Whiteline rear drop links (to replace the wire type Whiteline rear drop links it had) and a 22mm Whiteline rear anti-roll bar. This, alongside the new wheels and Toyo T1-R tyres should make a sizeable difference to the car. Just to get the geometry done at Extreme Motorsport ASAP. Anyone got any good geometry settings for a classic with these chassis mods (plus the usual STI V.1 bits)? A couple of phone pics: Old caliper (REAR) before re-con: And rear set-up with Whiteline Drop link behind: Front calipers ready to go on: The front calipers fitted: What's next!

I'd say the standard one is a good buy for an unmodified car. It has a dump valve and the only benefit would be the (soon to be annoying) noise. IMHO. Someone will be along to tell the drawbacks to a standard car with a dump valve - most likely a VTA - such as bore wash, possible boost issues etc. Brian []

No worries - good luck. When Andy looked at my car and it was road tested and run with all the wires, gear and sensors he said with the mods it was running exactly as he would map it with a PFC so there are alternatives too [] People sell PFC's anyway, so you'd get one. And I'm sure Andy will have a few ideas. Brian []

I'd imagine it would - but maybe use plenty of Octane Booster to be on the safe side. You got a knocklink or any gauges in the car? AFR? Not that these would be much use if destruction was imminent... Mine is running a full decat system, up and downpipes but had mods to sort out the fuelling and boost. Maybe ask Andy F? You've also got the issue now that the Apexi PFC is no longer made for the early classics [] but apparently according to one mag (Jap Performance I think it was) someone is bout to start importing them so maybe a new model is on the way.

They should but you'll have to rewire in your foglamp - which may be a good thing if you have a crappy hanging one? Thought about it myself before I got a bit soldering-irony and sorted it myself. No hanging fog light for me. Brian []

Hey Mako - Happy Birthday - you share it with a fabulous guy! . . . . . . . . . . . . Well, you share it with me - 21 again....like yourself. Brian []

Maybe you should check the date this thread was posted on page 1 - it was LAST YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!

And that's just for Martin!!!!!!!!!!!! Happy Birthday April []

Looks great - the drop will be good too. When does the soundtrack get added [] Brian.

If they are WRX alloys - they pit a LOT - take them back to the dealer and ask them about a warranty swap on the wheels, although they may say no blaming the kerbing. They all pit badly. Brian []

Happens to me often when moving from one car to another lol []

Glad it all worked out Craig []

I like both FACT

Mighty fine looking bugeye Chris []. Here's mine with the new wheels: And the other steed: And my last Impreza: Brian []

Like the one with the flames!

No idea mate - try a garage would be your best bet. Sounds like a sensor or maybe a fouled plug? Brian []

True - it would. You'd need to get a loan (easy) - pay off the car then sell it privately. You'll get more for your STI, and you'll also get a much better classic than you would at a main dealer - ie by better I mean one which has good mods, is an probably an import and costs a couple of k less to start with. Do a search on the actual prices classics are going for and you'll find HUGE variety - you would find say a W plate classic standard for £5/6k easily but at a dealer it may be £8k. For £8k you'd be looking to get a late-ish classic STI with sensible mods. Trying to chop in your car in P.Ex against a classic at a dealer would see you saving maybe £5k tops - have you had a trade in price for your car from a dealer yet? That may be an eye opener. Been there - tried this situation with my last car a few times - its' not worth it - and the depreciation loss on these cars is HUGE until they get to 5 years old. I'd say keep the STI, pay it off and work with it. It'll be a good car in the long run. If you don't plan, or find it difficult, to keep a car for a good few years - chop it in - without taking another car (ie sell it to dealer for cash), pay off your finance and buy the best classic you can find - age is irrelevant, just get what you want. And don't be tempted into the buying the rawest one you can find just because it is the most pure - if you're like me, you'll find you never push the car hard enough anyway, and a classic with mods is pretty raw anyway, particularly when the power is upped [] Good fun though. Brian []

You could spend 2k on a decent selection of classic mods and have a really good car - but get a known, well modified classic base and you'll be laughing.

Pleanty of scope for modding a classic same as a newage - it has ECUTEK so can be easily mapped.

EH????????? What about the STI?????? If you are buying a car to mod then the cheapest base/best headstart would be an Import. Neofax is selling a '97 RA for good money. Has lots of good bits.

I think judging by the new Impreza pictures, that will become the equivalent newage to the classics P1 or STI V6. What will the new Impreza be called? Dark Age?

LOL - afraid not - the ones you got would have been on months ago had they been tyre correct [] You used them yet? B.