wilky

Colin its cool, like many on here he likes to keep the spec quiet. If he PM's you the spec you will see why. There are many standard position turbo kits which you can source from the US which promise the earth, however WHP/BHP etc etc get kind of lost in translation as do the actual spec of the turbo and I know of a few guys in the UK who has been upset by buying a turbo for standard position which was not the spec they thought it would be. The last I thought about this sort of thing was the MD321V, but the actual results depended on what you were running and how much boost you could SAFELY get away with. Same as any turbo really. My advice would be to call Mark at lateral who sells them, or Speak to the Uncle Andrew down in Port Seaton who at the end of the day is the mecca of turbo knowledge. The main problem with standard position is the turbo making contact with the intake manifold etc. Callum

In an earlier post RB said that he was polishing his head gasket. The heads or a head has obviously been taken off because of issues or whatever, and it has been noticed that the gasket in certain areas looks shiney, or polished and I would bet it was in the area where the gasket seals between the cylinders and the heads. Thats would suggest movement, metal on metal contact which is causing the polishing effect.

At that kind of boost you are going to see alot of heat being generated by track work. The Squirrel will back me up when I say that when I started running my original track car (The Millenium Falcon) putting 1.85 bar through a WRC CDB by about lap 4 the water temp was slightly higher than normal but the oil temp was unacceptable so a zerosport 70 degree thermostat was put in along with an oil cooler and that sorted it all out. I don't need to tell you that if you are having a polish affect on the head gasket at 1.8 bar and nothing has given way and you havent actually distorted you bores, stop doing it lol!!! Im pretty sure that Zen ran their green TA car for a while on a pegged block, and I know that people in NZ have experimented with welding the whole lot up and drilling holes as required in it, however there is no conclusion to that story and you really dont want to be welding at the top of the bore, A. your going to affect the properties of the metal its constructed from and B. If you ever do see any det and you have messed it up its all going to end in tears because thats the area of the bore that will suffer the most during detonation. I have read about and seen Honda 4 pots use an insert into that area of a block to "close the deck", the insert was obviously made for that type of block. wether you can get something similar for a Subaru EJ I don't know, but again you need to ask how are we going to fix it in? weld or whatever? Back to square one. In my humble opinion which mean hee haw, I would steel sleeve a 2.0 CDB to whatever you want, have the bore a bawhair proud like we spoke about, and keep the boost below 2 bar. At the end of the day we are not trying to win Le Mans. Try and get the performance you need with as little boost as possible. Callum

What makes you think you are getting movement? My linered 2.35 is a 2.0 CDB relinered to 2.2 and a 2.5 crank.

The problem with sleeving the bore, or "pinning" (Some call it wedging) a semi closed deck block, or even a closed deck block, is the fact that over a certain amount of boost/power the block will actually stretch. What I mean by that is that once you are pushing the envelope way beyond what the EJ engine was ever designed to handle but uprating the rods, pistons bearings etc etc you are still left with the same block design/material. Above a certain tolerance the block will elongate a bawhair, maybe only a thou, but its enough to drop the liner or the wedge and give sealing issues which under WOT will induce det and the rest we all know. Some combat this by making the sleeves sit a thou or so proud of the block to compensate and give a good seal even if the block stretches. Prodrive used obturation (or Wills) rings which eliminated the gasket, and used very long bolts on all four corners which went all the way through the block to the other side to torque the whole lot together, and it worked pretty good for them. (sometimes they were running 2.7bar) At our level on a sleeved block for reliabilty unless you are trying to win Time attack, I would not run a car with sleeved bores or anything pinned for strength over 2 bar (1.95 to be safe) On a semi closed deck block like the one you say you have, even with uprated internals I would not want to be running more than 1.7 bar max. Others may say thats being gay, but thats as far I would be happy with. What you intend to do should dictate whether you need to strengthen the block or not. If you do, SW Motorsport can give you all the guidance you need. Which takes you back to why GMac says get a CDB.

Im loving the mini! I hope they bring out a prodrive version of the 4WD version!

Where have you been hiding za? Havent seen you on here for ages!!!

We are not talking about injectors Improving spool, or at least I wasn't, we are talking about replacing a turbo with one which will flow more air which in turn will require more fuel and if he maxes out his injector duty cycle he may require a larger size of injector, or he may get away with being very very close to being maxed out, and just to give him a bawhair of headroom increase his fuel pressure, providing whomever is mapping the car is happy with that. He has said that he does not wish to change his injectors, and with the ones on his year of STI, he MAY not need to and get away with a wee bit more fuel pressure if he was to choose a standard position after market turbo such as an MD321T/H or such like. On a top mount I don't think spool will be an issue even on a T.

800cc injectors would give plenty head room but you may get away with your STI injectors if you can up the fuel pressure a wee bit without kicking the hole out of it, and your mapper was happy with that.

An MD 321T, depending on your injector size maybe an injector upgrade, FPR, headers, upipe, decat exhaust, decent filter and as long as your Top mount is a newage STI type or up to the task, you could see around 380-400bhp and 360-380lb ft at 1.4-1.5 bar of boost. The MD321T sits in the standard position. Its been a while so there may be better alternatives.

Please can we refrain from the "Holy Thread resurrection Batman!" Post, Thanks.

Feck me Grunt! Your left alone under your own supervision and you slip this one in under my nose whist Im in transit..... I only noticed this whilst looking for a thread on another subject and was humbled by your nice words. I regard you as a family member as well, however Im glad you have moved out of the parrots cage for all our sakes. We spoke about your health at Xmas and I am hoping that there is really something positive comes out of you upcoming tests and that you can move forward. As others have said never give up the fight (and keep your teeth in, Shergar) ;-) Your achievements have been remarkable, with the runs you always put so much effort in to, to the McRae Gathering, from those of us who gave what help we could it was awesome watching your coordination and Imy cracking the whip and keeping everyone from Prodrive to past Office Bearers in line as the show rolled forward. You are one of my best friends Grant, and you always will be. In the words of "Satchel" Paige America's first black Major League Baseball Player "Never look back, cos you don't know who may be catching you up! always keep running" Callum W (Owner of Bute)

Hard lines Peter, no scandal to spread! ;-)

You would need to think about wastegates, and if it was a twin turbo, running both wastegates off of one solenoid, hose lengths MAY need to be the same etc etc etc. I toyed with the idea and actually bought a 3.3 about 5 years ago. However the costs were horrific and that combined with other issues I had with the Millenium Falcon at the time, meant that it fell by the wayside and the engine was swallowed up in the mounting costs of the other car at the time. Single plenum or twin? If twin you would need to cross pressurize. Would cross pressurization be required on the two banks of headers if twin turbo? Another issue I had that I simply couldn't get round was the amount of weight that was going to be forward of the center of the front wheels ( the correct technical wording eludes me at present, Im sorry) In a rear wheel drive car you can move the engine and gearbox to the rear to help balance the car and make it handle better, however with the 4wd set up etc it is near on impossible. Just my tuppence worth! Callum

You may have a boost leak. I had this once. I checked all the pipes and clips and it all seemed okay until I noticed that a boost hose had actually split. The split had been caused by something touching the pipe and over time with vibration and movement had worn it and caused it to finally split. Check all the pipes properly. If you have a FMIC with hard pipework check for metal on metal contact that could have worn a hole in the alloy. If thats all good look at your intercooler and check for a hole or split in that. Highly unlikely if you have never touched it and you still have the top mount but always worth a look. Your looking for metal on metal wear on that as well. Its a shot in the dark but the symptoms you describe is exactly what I was experiencing. Callum

Big bad diesel hands, Im sorry to see you go Neil, I always enjoyed our blethers at Peters place and your stories about your Sierra. I havent seen you for ages and it would be daft for me to try and talk you round as your a man of principle, however Ill stick up for you and say I also know your a man of your word and helped many a person out sometimes at you own expense. The for sale things doesn't really bother me, Im over here in the USA, only time will tell if these decisions that have been made are right, we shall see. Don't cut off your nose to spite your face, you can take a huff then come back, most people do, FWIW Im yer pal. If your on Facebook add me as a friend. Feck em. Callum

Thats pish Craig, your a decent man. I would be hacked off as well.

He said cocks!! lol. Sorry to see you leave subaru ownership Billy, you were one of the first people I met many moons ago when I started this nonsense. I wish you luck and Im sure you will enjoy the mini! Callum

I think its a Spec C RA not an RAR Jock.

Having been to this garage to view a car with a friend, and experienced the attitude from the staff, the problems he had with the car afterwards and the way the garage treated it all, I would not go near the garage. It looks like a quality car, and probably is, however I saw a car being sold as something it wasn't when I was there and an S202 which was missing all the good bits, ie proper wheels, brakes and interior which had been substituted for WRX stuff. Don't be tempted is my advice or take someone with you who knows exactly every spec etc and a good mechanic as well. Just my tuppence worth. Callum

Did the get the thing I sent you??? If not it will be waiting for you. PM me if you are having problems with it.

Great Videos Adam! What hubs do you have? Are they uprated or standard? Callum

Mercedes CLK 63 AMG Black Series Pace car Spec.

This is dreadful news. Thoughts and prayers are with the family. RIP

Just seen that its only to be one choice, so Ill change mine to a Lamborghini Muira Jota. There were only 3 ever made and one was destroyed in a museum fire.