wilky

You wear the clown clothes Gaysatan, Ill crack the jokes.

Problem solved lolol!! That was quick!!

As titled troops, Im looking for the services of someone good who can transform sun bleached paint to happy shiny paint, and I would like them to do it tomorrow. Car is in Glasgow. Cheers Callum

Shut it LHFOJ. More to follow..... once I beat Grunt for not polishing it.... ;-)

What year and model do you own? Take a chance on ebay or go to a dealer who will quite possibly order the wrong one. You need to be quite clear as to which one you require, and they are not cheap. You do get the odd one popping up for sale on the forums but its hit or miss how long it will last. Check your connections to the MAF sensor and if have taken it off shine a torch into it and have a look at the elements or film inside. I do know of one person who had success cleaning it with brake cleaner but I know of too many who have broken it trying so I would not do that.

Christopher sat in deep meditation, This was his first ever SABBB (Sumo And Bare Bum Boxing) competition. He had been told it was equal if not better than UFC and was honoured to be up again the World champion, a man called Paul Gadd. (google it) Chris so wanted to be in his gang....

Peter thought he would turn up for TOTB dressed for the occasion.

Chris decided to prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that he knew the words to Bohemian Rhapsody without having to use the song sheet at the Jewish Queen Tribute concert....

ROFPMSL hahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!

Yes Dunk, Im home on holiday shortly, and intend driving that road over the next month or so, its always been an ambition of mine since John S did an article in True Grip on it about 2003-04.

Lol!!! I think Peter would have had me kung Fu'd if I'd done that lol.

Yes, they made a smashing job of my car! Look at the detailing!!!! Only joking, I hear they are very good!!!

WRC spares is for pure competition parts and you will Pay for it. Rodney is a good man but he has to make his bread and butter so it costs him so it costs you. You can source the driveshaft on the RCM site without going though RCM and I'm sure it is slightly cheaper. Go through Torqueline themselves.

between .65 and .68. depending on boost. .68 always worked fine for me.

I rest my case.

Lol you penis, at least it isn't like yours which resembles a granny's kiss ;-)

Heres you Fav song. You won't be so bold when muscle nut kicks your back door in during the night!! lol!!!

Your absolutely right Colin, we all know that. However the original question was how to strengthen what he had already. I think a linered block is fine so long as you stay below 2 bar, but as you correctly said there is absolutely no promise that even that is going to prevent dropping something. Once again this is just my opinion.

Good to see things moving forward Arch, as Peter says you have time on your side. I was surprised to see the turbine blades so badly chewed up, how long had the car been running like that? Oh, and congratulations on your achievements! Very well done! Callum

Each to their own I suppose, Andy had it pretty full on which as someone mentioned earlier was good when progressing in a safe and controlled manner, but was a nightmare around the town as it drew unwanted attention from the Feds. If It could have been turned on and off, that would have been different, maybe switching between maps, but that was not set.

Don't do it. I had it on the fatboy and it drove me fecking nuts.

Colin its cool, like many on here he likes to keep the spec quiet. If he PM's you the spec you will see why. There are many standard position turbo kits which you can source from the US which promise the earth, however WHP/BHP etc etc get kind of lost in translation as do the actual spec of the turbo and I know of a few guys in the UK who has been upset by buying a turbo for standard position which was not the spec they thought it would be. The last I thought about this sort of thing was the MD321V, but the actual results depended on what you were running and how much boost you could SAFELY get away with. Same as any turbo really. My advice would be to call Mark at lateral who sells them, or Speak to the Uncle Andrew down in Port Seaton who at the end of the day is the mecca of turbo knowledge. The main problem with standard position is the turbo making contact with the intake manifold etc. Callum

In an earlier post RB said that he was polishing his head gasket. The heads or a head has obviously been taken off because of issues or whatever, and it has been noticed that the gasket in certain areas looks shiney, or polished and I would bet it was in the area where the gasket seals between the cylinders and the heads. Thats would suggest movement, metal on metal contact which is causing the polishing effect.

At that kind of boost you are going to see alot of heat being generated by track work. The Squirrel will back me up when I say that when I started running my original track car (The Millenium Falcon) putting 1.85 bar through a WRC CDB by about lap 4 the water temp was slightly higher than normal but the oil temp was unacceptable so a zerosport 70 degree thermostat was put in along with an oil cooler and that sorted it all out. I don't need to tell you that if you are having a polish affect on the head gasket at 1.8 bar and nothing has given way and you havent actually distorted you bores, stop doing it lol!!! Im pretty sure that Zen ran their green TA car for a while on a pegged block, and I know that people in NZ have experimented with welding the whole lot up and drilling holes as required in it, however there is no conclusion to that story and you really dont want to be welding at the top of the bore, A. your going to affect the properties of the metal its constructed from and B. If you ever do see any det and you have messed it up its all going to end in tears because thats the area of the bore that will suffer the most during detonation. I have read about and seen Honda 4 pots use an insert into that area of a block to "close the deck", the insert was obviously made for that type of block. wether you can get something similar for a Subaru EJ I don't know, but again you need to ask how are we going to fix it in? weld or whatever? Back to square one. In my humble opinion which mean hee haw, I would steel sleeve a 2.0 CDB to whatever you want, have the bore a bawhair proud like we spoke about, and keep the boost below 2 bar. At the end of the day we are not trying to win Le Mans. Try and get the performance you need with as little boost as possible. Callum