colin_ross

Some type r's have that and a bit more

You'd think they'd drive the same but they don't. Type r is much more of a handful even with the same power. Must be down to the gearing and dccd.

I had a similar issue when I moved from a phase II to a phase I block on my 99. The 754 gearbox could only take 4 bolts in the bellhousing and just the same as arch required the block to be tapped to accept the phase II starter motor bolt. It's been like that for 3 years and hasn't caused me any problems.

Tidy. Spec?

Well done mate. Guess you may miss the next few meets, like all of them.

Have you done this yourself? Never tried it personally but have been led to believe it was a non starter.

Sorry mate, didn't want to hear that. Heads can be taken of in situ as long as you don't have arp"s. But I'd recommend taking the motor out as it'll be easier in the long run.

Something tells me legal considerations have come into play. Either that or there's a deal to be done by keeping quiet.

Btw, gutted for you mate if there is internal damage.

Do a compression check first. Yes that tip will have gone somewhere and yes it could have damaged a lot of things on it's travels but it may have made it's way out without doing anything. If compression is fine I'd replace the plug and try another coil pack. If it runs ok then the next thing you need to do if figure out what happened. Do you have a knocklink, wideband, egt gauge to help diagnose it?

First off, the length of the rail has nothing to do with the pressure. If you tee the return lines together the fpr will maintain an equal pressure on both. Second, don't take any chances. I cut my 99 rails but without flared end the hoses worked loose and nearly sent my car up in flames. I knw of at least 3 other cars that haven't been as lucky as I was. Buy the proper parts or you'll end up paying much more in the long run.

Doubt he has abs Ricey. Looking bery nice, need to compare mine to see what else I can ditch to get the clean look.

Leave the spanners at home, let the RAC card take the strian.

Next best to who?

Does the finance company not have his address?

Edited for accuracy

Those 2 statements go really well together. You wouldn't touch anything up there unless your into schemies.

When they get to this age you're better buying on condition rather than miles or spec. You could have bought a rotten v5 or a clean v4, what would you prefer? There are some differences buuutttt if you really intend to leave it as a standard daily driver none of that maters.

The other thing is some of the things you use to tell if it's a version 4 or version 5 have been changed, The original spolier and grill would have given the game away for sure but as they've been changed you wouldn't have known.

The DVLA have a lot to answer for. You're right a T plate should be a version 5, mine is on an S. Have a look at the tags on the bottom of the seat belts, they will have the year of manufacture printed on them, will probably say 98.

Defo version 4, sorry mate.

Not wanting to be picky mate but that a version 4 front bumper. Not that a doubt you or anything. An under bonnet pick would confirm it once and for all. Very nice btw.

Did you say it was a v5, they have yellow 440's as standard.

Kenny Brown Engineering in Hillington gets my vote.

I'm going to have to back out as my new icv has not fixed the problem. The car is running but without anti lag it would only be a nine tenths run so not worth it. Sorry guys.