craigdmcd

Thanks troops. Stewart, yours was nice and easy to do - I like it when they are that simple. No doubt Mic, I'll be doing the full Xzibit to yours when I see you.

Does anyone know if a lambda sensor from a 2001-2005 2.0 WRX will fit a 2006 2.5 WRX - plenty of listings for the early ones, but none for the 2.5

How big was his paper round!?!?!?!?!?!? Have a nice day G

The goats have been touched

To do that level of damage to a wheel, you have to hit something pretty hard (nice kerb maybe?). I'd be back at Evans Halshaw trying to find out where that happened and why your car is pulling. Time to stop being so calm about it.

Get a full reprt on what was done by Nobles so all of us experts can give you a second opinion

Never heard of tappets being "too tight" as part of a service and MOT. I've not seen the insides of a V8 STi head, but I'm assuming the adjustment is out if somebody has had the engine apart taking tuned parts back out, and not been rebuilt correctly, or due to the mods on the car, the valve seats have been burnt. Either way, get a proper description of the fault and post it on here to get some feedback to see if the car may have other underlying issues. Fixing what has broken doesn't necessarily mean the cause will be gone as well, and the fault may re-appear after the warranty has gone. Keep the car by all means, but cover your butt to save big bills in the future

Would love to go down but am getting ready for my Holiday tomorrow, so no chance. Shame, as I've got a wee one on the way, and was hoping to get a bargain on a Recaro Childseat

I personally would love to see Toyota back in a proper sport that showcases products from it's sales range (although extensively modified)

Got a good TD04 sitting here for 75quid if you want a standard replacement for a short term over the summer.

Got to agree with Baz on this one. Or find the last owner (do you have the log-book?) and find out exactly what had been done to it. If it has had that amount of work done to it, then it doesn't seem to have had the easiest of lives.

I got my PFF7's done by Pristine in Milton Keynes. I boxed them up (easy - just get boxes from a Alloy wheel shop), they got them collected, cleaned and inspected, found one was damaged and repaired it (where a stupid Subaru lock nut had broken and had to be ground out) for an additional 40 quid, then took them back to bare and coated /painted /whatever they do to them. They then sent them back and actually look better than when I got them new from Halley's. Total cost - 280GBP (no stupid pounds sign on this keyboard). I can't recommend them highly enough. Craig

TBH John, I'm always fitting new Gates belts, so I use the marks supplied on the belts that line up to the pulleys, so you can't go wrong, and as with all timing belts, Subaru or not, the belt is always fitted with the tension side first, and the section at the tensioner to be fitted last, as this is always where the slack should be taken up, but any self adjusting system should always pull itself tight anyway. It's like I say, the 2 notches that line up on the N/S inlet and exhaust cam pullies always seem slightly out if the notches against the cam covers are spot on - no biggie, they always run perfect.

Hmm, sounds like a fabulous load of bull to extract more money from you. I've not done a VVT belt yet, but all the pullies I have done on the N/S bank never line up absolutely perfect, always a smidgen off, but never any issues with them. And yes, you would notice the car running rough if it were a tooth out on any of the cams.

Yeah, I think so. It was back in the days when I used to chase the RAC Rally. The car just danced through the corners.I seem to vaguely remember a road close to it that was on the way out from the Kielder stages, then headed north - it had the most awesome unexpected jump in it

Got to admit, some nice roads down that way, but I prefer mine a bit twistier. The Strathaven to Miurkirk road is superb, if a little badly surfaced in places, and another favourite is the road that brings you off the A68 just as you've passed the Welcome to Scotland sign, and turns right towards Hawick or something like that.

Would it help if I mentioned the Subaru powered karts? (Not a flatfour though)

Sorry to sound like a blowhard boys, but please feel free to PM or call me on this one. I've been heavily involved in karting for around 12 years now, and was even the chairman of the WSKC for a short while. I've drawn away from the scene a little now, but still help with my 20 year old nephew who is currently 2nd in the MSA Super 1 championship in the KF2 series. Also his 8 year old little brother has just started racing in the Honda Cadet class. I raced TKM's myself for a few years(seriously slippy in the wet). The only kids mentioned here that are ineligible, is the 5 year old. Kids from 6 upwards are allowed to practice, they can get 50cc Bambino karts if they are very small, but would be best suited to getting the Honda engined karts for simplicity to drive due to the low down torque of the engines. The Comers are ultimately faster in the right hands, but a good deal of practice is required to get that point. Baz, going to the meeeting is a great thing, but remember people will quite possibly vear you in a wrong direction if they think it may help line their pockets. Kev, in Scotland, Rotax classes are dying away, with the most popular being Formula Blue in the teenager and adult classes, with some juniors still leaning to the very affordable TKM class, which is where a lot of the recent top motor racing drivers learned there trade. It is a sport that can still be done on a reasonable budget at club level, but you don't want to know the costs when you get to British Chamionship competition (Cadet engines swapping hands for 10K!!!)

What do you have planned for your gearbox as it won't take all the power the 16g can supply never mind a 20g

Got a set from a V3 STi if you need to check them. PM me if needed

Got a very good one for sale - £150

As much as many people will tell you through experience that the TMIC will struggle to cope with high speeds, I believe Subaru's ultimate proof in the pudding was the BH model GT-B's gaining and holding the World Top Speed record for estate cars at 170mph. I believe that it was set on the salt Lake in America and you should see the size of the TMIC on a BH, and the under bonnet heat 2 turbos generate. Just my Tuppence.

Contact Duncan at Hypertech, and he can give several options including an EcuTek remap

I guess you'll be asking for a price soon then Neil? I still prefer Goodyear's and don't really like Bridgestone's (I find there sidewalls far too stiff), but am now a supplying agent for Toyo, so let me know what you decide. As for Nitrogen in the Aerospace and Motorsport Industries, it has nothing to do with longevity or pressure retention, it has more to do with the fact that Nitrogen is almost immune to pressure changes related to heat (and lack of it in certain situations). Both tyres on Aeroplanes and racing cars can generate absurd amounts of heat and dramatically change the pressure in the tyres, creating the risk of a tyre exploding or in teh case of motorsport, can give a more consistent tyre throughout the race. On, BTW, Richie, did you ever get to the bottom of the charging/ECU problem?

Nice clip Baz. I couldn't get the sound but watched the video. It's funny how he managed to look quite good in the Group N, but looked quite stilted (if that's a word that suits) in the Group A and WRC cars. It just shows how talented works drivers are to make these cars look as good as they did. It's also the reason that WRC is starting to bore me - I yearn for the early days of WRC cars (late 90's and early noughties) when WRC was awesome, with many different driver's that could win and mad F2 cars that could scare WRC cars on dry tarmac.