craigdmcd

Colzo, the length would probably be the biggest difference, especially if it is for a Legacy estate. What model of Legacy is it for?

Never met you Jimser, but that is gutting to see, especially with it being a special car. Why not hunt down a Spec C Type RA-R?

I'm with this man, Silkolene Pro S 10w-50. Thin enough for these cold mornings, and not too thick if you give it some beans for a while. Opie oils have good write-up's on some forums explaining the in's and out's of different oils. Best idea is to phone them - they stock quite a lot of oils, so I would guess that they'll happily sell you the right stuff and not just one brand because that is all they stock.

Yes, Imy, just do it to annoy them. The only thing is that eventually you will run out of prints, and these scum will still crawl out of the woodwork after that.

That's a good price. I did hear something about there being some Goodyear's in the country a while back that weren't ECE approved. I think the proper ones are made in Germany and China, the dodgy ones are made in Taiwan or Indonesia or somewhere like that, so just check the markings on the sidewall.

Actually, with the recession and the pound being very weak against the Euro, then a lot of tyre prices have increased 15-20%, so dependant on size £100 could be very cheap. I know I don't even buy 225/40R18 F1 Assymetrics for £100 including VAT, so if someone finds them fitted for that, let us all know.

Subaru are still listing them on their website - here's the link for the part number Gold PFF7's

I've had about 15k out of each pair of F1's I've fitted to the wife's WRX but it has PFF7's with 225/40R18's. I'm now on the newer asymetric pattern, he GSD3 is the old arrow style pattern. Can't say I've ever had cause to complain about Goodyear's, I really rate them.

No desperate rush mate. I've sent you a goat, so we can hopefully get you sorted out.

Why thank you kind Sir, commision cheque is on it's way

The 2.5 was bought as part of a package with a car, so don't have an exact cost. Everything transfers from your car, exhaust manifolds, inlet manifolds, turbo, ECU, so could build it to what spec you want, or just leave it as and bolt everything on. Yes I am a mechanic, and work in my father's garage in Paisley. Done work for quite a few folk on here, and nobody has mentioned anything bad yet (although I don't know if they are just being polite!). To be fair, I don't check my oil anywhere near enough, but in any of my 2 litres , I never seem to use any. I have heard of 2.5's using quite a bit, so I'm going to have to change that habit. To fit a 2.5, you will possibly need different injectors, and at least a remap to use it, but at least you already have the Ecutek license. Just keep asking the questions if it helps you decide what direction to go

Buffalo, the first thing you need to find out is why it was losing oil. To require 4 litres of oil means that it was dry, and that it is quite possible that you wouldn't want to use much of what is left in your engine. The engine that is in the S/Net thread is very nice, but £1800 is for the price of the short block. At that you still need to put heads on it, with quality gaskets, as well as renewing all the rocker gaskets, seals etc. . Add in the price of labour and I doubt you'll see much change out of 3 grand. Fitted like this, it won't have any more power until you do supporting mods (De-cat, bigger intercooler, bigger turbo, bigger injectors, re-map - where do you stop - ask FAI17). Second option is to contact Wilky on this thread JDM Sti bottom end, to see if this is still available. You still need all the bits that are listed on the previous engine build, but you will be a grand better off, and the engine is nearly as strong. The big if on both of these builds is whether your heads are ok, which is anyone's guess. Third option is the 2001 WRX engine that I have for sale. It's been removed because I'm putting a 2.5 in. It is complete with heads and everything, has done 50K, so performance wise it is no better, but is the cheapest option. I'll have it fitted with new oil, coolant, plugs and timing belt for £1200. BTW, I'm in Blantyre if you need any advice. Cheers Craig

I agree that the cost of type approval for low volume units makes things a bit tighter, but pushing the right model is sometimes not always been IM strongest point - for instance, we have always had watered down versions of the Impreza. How man STi's made it to Britain before the P1, and even then it took Prodrive to do the necessary work for that to happen. The Legacy has never been well marketed, even though the top versions in Japan are easily as good as similarlly priced German equipment, we still get the middle of the road versions. Although the current position of falling sales is due to economic decline, IM have only themselves to blame for not getting themselves in to a better position to battle this prior to the current depression.

The S402 has the 2.5 engine in it, and a twin-scroll turbo, so should be able to meet Euro4 if tuned right, but yes the emissions was the problem with bringing the BE/BH model twin turbo legacies to the UK (it uses far to complex a twin-turbo set-up - but now I've got use to it I quite like it). Possibly the other problem with these is that IM isn't that interested in bringing stuff in for enthusiasts.

If they can get a current STi down to Euro4, then they can get one of these down - basically the same running gear - then do the same as Mitsubushi do with the MR versions to get the power back up again.

Sorry, it's a bit Chrysler 300C for my liking. I'm actually quite a fan of the current model, it's just a shame that we don't get what the Japanese market gets in the way of range or aftermarket equipment. I'm sorry, but why do IM not bring something like this in ( and before you come up with all the vehicle regs and import rules - they managed it with 16 22B's didn't they) Please explore this site about the Legacy S402

Geo, bit confused here. That is a later style tensioner (the early ones were a separate swivelling pulley with a hydraulic tensioner like a small ram), but you don't have the small idler pulley that fits between the tensioner and the N/S cam pulley. What year of set-up is this from?

Are you going to heatwrap the headers, or are they of good enough quality to justify getting them Zzircotec'd?

I think they still have a share in them at least. Gav, I know you are right about the whole investment thing, but one of the side benefits of the S2000 class is that you don't need to be throwing at least £20million at a season (what Ford pay for it's 2 works cars alone I believe). The cars are far easier to develop due to the class restrictions with the drivetrain etc. Building a good engine from 2 litre N/A is not that big a thing, with plenty of private tuners getting credible results from everyday engines. Incidentally, the K series engine is not that good a basis to build an engine from, especially when compared to the Vauxhall/Toyota/PSA Group/VAG Engines that are produced. But yes I do agree that money will alweays do the best talking, as it does in any motorsport (well, with the exclusion of Norris Designs). The big thing this class provides is the a more level playing (not flat - just more level compared to the WRC at the moment), and without the enormous outlay that is currently required. This in turn is producing cars, that more of the fast drivers that who can't get a seat because of budget restraints are now using to showcase talent such as Kris Meeke, Mark Higgins and Guy Wilks to name but a few from these shores alone. The greatest thing that the class will bring for all us enthusiasts though is cars that have to scream to work and have to been thrown through corners - just like the good 'ole days.

So what did you say when Subaru first started rallying the Legacy - "There's a Subaru, but farmer Giles isn't driving it!?!?!?" It must have been a relief when Colin came along, as at least he stayed close to Lanark Market.

But to be fair to them Gav, a 2000cc DOHC can be tuned very similar to anyone else's (look at the BTCC), the car has good dimensions and stance, the gearbox and final drive is the same for all cars, and has McPherson struts all round, so Ohlins should get it right if given the job. It's just who actually tries to set it up that will decide how quick it goes. I still don't want a Proton road car though. A bit perversely, I did always say I would have bought a Hyundai Accent WRC car as a 4wd Turbo road car if they had ever built one cheap enough though. Here's a pic of the MEM Proton at the Autosport that I took

I've kept an eye on this throughout the day, and whilst I do agree that it is not fair to call the guy names (although I do also appreciate that this is just your style of posting CraigD - that is your own choice and only dislike it in the same way as I dislike text talk), it is obvious from all the video footage that the man should really spend some of his abundance of cash on proper driving tuition or some of the fabulous Scandinavian Rally schools that teach all sorts of car skills. The first clip shows how he is too focused on trying to catch the boys in front of him, and thinks that just because they have jumped the slower car in front of them, he will automatically be able to do the same. The end result is obvious, and as much as he might have payed for the damage he has done, how do you compensate someone for all the late winter nights and ear bashings from the missus whilst trying to get a car ready for an event like this? The lack of brakes clip is quite disturbing in so as far the man owns a car preparation business. I can't actually recall the last time I saw a total brake failure on a competition car that wasn't down to human error or something damaging the brake system when travelling in a forest. On a circuit it can only be attributed to human error at setup to have that big a failure in such a short time, or that he hasn't been clever enough to notice his brakes "disappearing" over the previous laps - then the error is entirely his fault. Even still, a better exit path over the grass (never a good idea on slicks in the first place) or maybe the better option of killing the engine by selecting 2nd or 3rd might have worked better - yet again an experience thing. Everyone on a forum is entitled to an opinion, it's just how we express them and sometimes comment on other peoples that should be thought of a little longer before we hit the "post" or "reply" buttons.

A man that has obviously mistaken amition and ability - he wants to a talented driver and doesn't realise he is falling short of the mark. I've been in cars with that kind and it isn't big or clever

Judging by the condition of the mounting brackets on the downpipe, I think the a downpipe de-cat is next. Or maybe a set of Samco intercooler hoses? For all the people that needed a car, and passed this up when it was for sale, it seems that Geoff got an absolute bargain because of this. A stunning car for the price.

I was down at the Autosport show, and was talking to the boys on the Zircotec stand, when they showed me an exhaust from a racing bike that had gone down on it's side. The exhaust was worn through where it had scrapped along the tarmac, but had not chipped of flaked, even where it had taken a bend. It was very impressive indeed, and made me very happy about going down this route. I would have liked one of the new colours available, but it was an extra £70, and I was already overbudget on them. I think you could heatwrap again, but I was lucky I didn't as I have very little clearance to the front crossmember, and the wrap might have chaffed away. I am very happy with them now, with the car feeling faster, although that is more down to my pockets being considerably lighter .