craigdmcd

Yes Chris, it is now very much the appendage enlargement club, very few people can fully drive a car on normal roads with much more power than you had in the last car, but everyone wants more. I prefer to give my money to dancing Polish girls - far more enjoyment that way.

Oh, BTW, remember I was the one at Dastek, and did actually see your last car make 403 wonderful horses

So what's the Hampden Roar then Chris, did you spill some of the soap down your throat and it cleaned out your mouth and thoughts?

I don't know loads about TV's except what most folk say - go and look at what looks good. My Dad does have a very nice 50" Pioneer Plasma with a Onkya or Oyna or something sound system with the speakers set in to the ceiling.But as you can guess, that wasn't cheap. I also went in to get some spares for my headphones at Bang & Olufsen, and ending up looking at their beautiful 55" TV. Stunning is an understatement - but at 16K, slightly over your budget. And lastly, was in Selfridges in Manchester, and saw a new Sony, with really fabulous colour and depth in the screen, but again about 2K. So realistically what I'm saying is that I really like very expensive TV's that I can't afford. Sorry for not contributing anything worthwhle to this thread

Absolutely correct Peter, as are many that frequent Parkhead!

Strange to be getting thanked for fixing a Merc on a Subaru Forum, but no problem Robert. Like I say, Mercs are my speciality, but Scoobs are my passion.

Not completely right Euan, if you get proper AP8 pots like the ones I have worked on, then they should have 4 brake pads per caliper, and this gives pads that bite harder due to each pad having a "biting" edge. Just the cost of these style of calipers are very prohibitive.

Massive undertaking to fit a twin turbo engine, far better sticking with your standard set-up or upgrading to a twin-scroll set-up, although a remap would be required if youdo this. Hope this helps

Leave the generator section on it Neil, and I don't think it would mix to well with that watery stuff the boat runs in!

Hmm, that sounds like a VERRRRY dear beer!! I really shouldn't be bothering with games (or the internet for that matter) and just getting all the cars fixed!!!!

Are you letting the filler "click" once and hang up the nozzle, or do you continue to fill. When I had the Blob WRX, I could neck it, get 60-70 miles before it would move off of full. Best I managed was 330miles, but the Ex got 350 on a tank, and although it was only a WRX, it did have a PPP kit.

I'd been considering buying this, but really didn't like the old versions, so am keen to get anybody's views on it before spending my hard earned. I am stupidly considering getting the collector's pack of the GT5 that is in Game when it eventually comes out

You have a Goat

Genuine Subaru filter and sump washer, and should be Shell Helix 5w40, but I recommend 10w50 Silkolene ProS - runs better and not as thick as 10w60

OEM struts have virtually no give in them, whilst aftermarket and specialist shockers seem to have enough play to give on average around 0.5 degree of camber adjustment.

4 hours total for the job, including checking and adjusting the front camber and and checking the front toe - that's all that will be moved with this work, as the rear camber is non adjustable.

Is it to replace as standard head gaskets or do you have mods done to the car?

It's 4am and I am just heading out the door to go to Castle Combe for Rally Day. I'll get down, catch the show and then head all the way back. It's going to be a long day!

Just got a set of Vredstein Wintracs secondhand for £240 and a set of STi8 rims so I can clear my Brembo's., and am looking forward to some nasty weather to try them (if I ever get the car on the road!). And BTW Neil, here is the bad news. Your summer tyres aren't only pants in the winter (compared to winter tyres), but they wear out a lot quicker in cold conditions For what it's worth, apparently Nokian tyres are made in Scandinavia, so their winter tyres should be superb

No problem, I hadn't looked that far back. I think that Ken and Travis liked Colin sooo much because of the way he liked to drive - ie sliding it to within an inch of it's life (and sometimes a few inches too far), and for this reason I believe that Ken would have been awesome in the older days when rally cars slid about.

I did mean a 10-15mm higher than your new set-up - I just prefer a little bit of gap between the wheels and arches. Also on the rally car, when it got wet, we tended to go higher and softer, otherwise a low and tight setting will push the front end and overstress the front tyres. Actually I don't feel that standard Subaru suspension comes anywhere close to doing anywhere near a good enough job compared to what it can do with quality dampers.

Stephen, I don't know if you were making a point at my post (no offence was taken if it was), but I was comparing his WRC Focus with all it's trickery to the Fiesta which clearly has different settings to allow it to slide as it does (you didn't see the WRC cars sliding like that in Germany)

Gav, I personally quite like the looks (although the back end is quite like a Hyundai Accent WRC car - I would have have bought one of them if they had made them cheap enough!). But realistically the price is way out there - the Hawkeye STi was 25K, and has jumped to 32k - that is almost a 30% price hike. My house I bought in 2005 cost 200K and I sold it 6 months ago for 208K - has nobody told Subaru that there is a recession on, and big price hikes don't get bums on seats. Oh, and the 17K Fiesta - hunt hard enough and you'll get 3-4K off of that. Are you willing to drop 7-8K on the Sti Saloon?

Told you that you would like them. I would personally raise it about 10-15mm though. By the way, I know it is a completely different car, but when the Finnish Motorsport teams started making Corolla's go faster than the Factory counterparts, they attributed it to raising the car and going softer! Apparently you can feel the grip limits easier

Brake pipes where the plastic covers end, handbrakes, water pipes to rear heaters if it has them on that model (they drop the water when they corrode). Apart from that, fairly robust as you would expect. My mum has had hers since 2000 and it is a great big bus.