craigdmcd

Absolutely correct Peter, as are many that frequent Parkhead!

Strange to be getting thanked for fixing a Merc on a Subaru Forum, but no problem Robert. Like I say, Mercs are my speciality, but Scoobs are my passion.

Not completely right Euan, if you get proper AP8 pots like the ones I have worked on, then they should have 4 brake pads per caliper, and this gives pads that bite harder due to each pad having a "biting" edge. Just the cost of these style of calipers are very prohibitive.

Are you letting the filler "click" once and hang up the nozzle, or do you continue to fill. When I had the Blob WRX, I could neck it, get 60-70 miles before it would move off of full. Best I managed was 330miles, but the Ex got 350 on a tank, and although it was only a WRX, it did have a PPP kit.

You have a Goat

Genuine Subaru filter and sump washer, and should be Shell Helix 5w40, but I recommend 10w50 Silkolene ProS - runs better and not as thick as 10w60

OEM struts have virtually no give in them, whilst aftermarket and specialist shockers seem to have enough play to give on average around 0.5 degree of camber adjustment.

4 hours total for the job, including checking and adjusting the front camber and and checking the front toe - that's all that will be moved with this work, as the rear camber is non adjustable.

Is it to replace as standard head gaskets or do you have mods done to the car?

It's 4am and I am just heading out the door to go to Castle Combe for Rally Day. I'll get down, catch the show and then head all the way back. It's going to be a long day!

Just got a set of Vredstein Wintracs secondhand for £240 and a set of STi8 rims so I can clear my Brembo's., and am looking forward to some nasty weather to try them (if I ever get the car on the road!). And BTW Neil, here is the bad news. Your summer tyres aren't only pants in the winter (compared to winter tyres), but they wear out a lot quicker in cold conditions For what it's worth, apparently Nokian tyres are made in Scandinavia, so their winter tyres should be superb

I did mean a 10-15mm higher than your new set-up - I just prefer a little bit of gap between the wheels and arches. Also on the rally car, when it got wet, we tended to go higher and softer, otherwise a low and tight setting will push the front end and overstress the front tyres. Actually I don't feel that standard Subaru suspension comes anywhere close to doing anywhere near a good enough job compared to what it can do with quality dampers.

Gav, I personally quite like the looks (although the back end is quite like a Hyundai Accent WRC car - I would have have bought one of them if they had made them cheap enough!). But realistically the price is way out there - the Hawkeye STi was 25K, and has jumped to 32k - that is almost a 30% price hike. My house I bought in 2005 cost 200K and I sold it 6 months ago for 208K - has nobody told Subaru that there is a recession on, and big price hikes don't get bums on seats. Oh, and the 17K Fiesta - hunt hard enough and you'll get 3-4K off of that. Are you willing to drop 7-8K on the Sti Saloon?

Told you that you would like them. I would personally raise it about 10-15mm though. By the way, I know it is a completely different car, but when the Finnish Motorsport teams started making Corolla's go faster than the Factory counterparts, they attributed it to raising the car and going softer! Apparently you can feel the grip limits easier

Yep, heading down to meet up with the boys from the UK Legacy Forum. Just going down in the trusty Mondeo TD, down and up for £80. Quite a good day out, really enjoyed it the last couple of times.

ME!!! easy peasy - what wheels do you have Kenny?

Nice to see nice clean emissions Neil, not polluting our atmosphere

I only really used them for oil filters and such in the past. I did go for a test drive in a Classic when they were still new back in 1999, and the salesman drove the car and didn't let me or my ex drive it, even though it was for her! I use Halley's all the time now, Paul in the parts department is awesome, and tries really hard to get it right first time, even on JDM stuff.

Ciaran, I may have someone for the Rallye if you are selling it.

So as the Pirelli add used to say "Power is nothing without control". So you have AP's, but what else do you have in mind to get all the power to Terra Firma. And in all reality, do you have any intention of going on any driver training courses, as even the great Walter Rohrl admits there is a limit to which any man can control, and this reply is aimed at all those with very large power outputs.

Good choice on the coilovers and ALK, you won't be disappointed. Derek if you have a shot in a properly set-up car with KW's it doesn't leave you any option. Definately well worth the money

I actually had the KW's on an original Series 1 Legacy RS. They were bought secondhand, used for about a year and then taken off because I was selling the car on, and the next owner wanted it returned to standard. They fitted straight on to Neil's Terzo, and simply needed some height adjustment to get them right. The ride quality was outstanding even with 215/40R17 Yokohama Parada's on it, with most small bumps not noticed, and reasonable control over large jolts. I've since fitted them for Neil, and believe thet are still working as well (god knows I would have heard about it if they weren't!). The only comment I would make, is to pay the extra (£300 I believe) for the adjustables, just in case the non-adjustables damping isn't to your taste. Hope this helps Craig

Sounds like the rattle pin on the pads to warn you the pads are getting low. Just a guess though.

I had a set of KW's that I sold to Terzo Neil, and we both agree that they are excellent units. The only difference is that I had the adjustable units. Bilstein stuff is generally very good, but you do find the GT-B boys complaining that the standard units do wear out, but only after a long period of time.

Nice to be recommended, Cheers Richie. Stewart must really have put a good word in for me!