Dave K

<< Table for 10 reserved for sunday New place, very nice run out to it, (and we can pick you up Dave if needed cos only a few miles from you) >> You got contact details then. Lol, hope to have it running. Could always push it, not that far! A can of zippo lighter fuel + match and no one would know anything is wrong.

Evening dudes.

<< Does powder coating have to be done on bare metal or can it be done over existing coats & stick well? >> I think it has to be stripped to the bare metal, as powder coating is an electrolytic process.

First job for the weekend was to pull the gems ecu; Removed from case; Hope to have it back mid week. Next job install the rear strut bar, first remove rear seat; Remove top mount nuts; Fit rear strut mount, the pink finish blends right in! ; Repeat on the other side; Next fit centre bar; As you can see from the last pic bit of a mess, thats next on the list; Then before refitting I tidied up the wiring; An other job to do, fit new 3 pod a-pillar mount; Anybody after 2 pod a-pillar mount with knocklink remote mount for a classic?

<< Bloody hell Dave! Next you'll be putting a 2.5 block in there. Are the rear strut braces worth fitting? >> Lol, when it goes pop I may well do that! 67k on the clock it's only a matter of time. As for the rear strut, dont know only fitted it today. Andy should be able to answer that better than me.

Richard DaveK - Pending ECU repair.

Michael, go to Autocrash they do the best work on alloys that I have seen over here. Just to add this is spraying not powder coating which is how most alloys are done from the factory, hence why I?m waiting to sort mine in the UK as no one on island can do powder coating to an acceptable level.

Mornin dudes!

Porting of the turbine housing begins; Using an old gasket as a guide for the uppipe as it is the same diameter; And the finished product, looks a bit rough in the pics but its not; Before porting; After porting; And the wastegate got a bit, to prevent boost creep;

That has to be the answer then Jim to save all the agro with shipping, which IMO is a rip off to this island.

I would say the Dark alloys Jim. I think they suit the car best and you stealthy build, but that's just my opinion.

<< Not mapped much on mine recently. Hardly played with the logging software at all yet! Need to figure that all out then analyse things. That's a real bugger re' your ecu though. Bought a strut brace, hopefully new wheels in the next few weeks too. Will get those bits of silicon from my mum's Dave - sorry, I'd completely forgotten about them! >> I'm not into the fuel maps and timing yet, just smoothing out the start up enrichment and idle duty tables etc. As most mappers can?t spend hours on your car and it don?t tend to stay cold for long this doesn?t get much attention. Only problems is I may be wasting my time due to running battery compensation to fool it into think its running 12-14 volt. So will have to start again after repair. Cheers Jim, need to sleeve my IC pipe in wing as it's rattling on the wing!

<< Ha, one or two of margys hot toddys Always works You cant walk or drive for two days afterwards, but hey, the cold will be gone!!!! Ta Ta Richard >> And you forgot the loss of eyesight to!lol

<< Good stuff Dave! Didn't know you were going for the G! You should have fun when that's on!!! Might well add it on there, cheers! That entrance at the inlet is pure nasty! Never thought about doing that on mine when I fitted it. Doh! Next time my motor is out when it's clutch time I'll hopefully be doing header porting and will do this at the same time. Have you still got that other up-pipe of yours Dude? >> Yep TD05 is most suited to my needs, try and keep the spool of the VF24 but get 350bhp and a stronger unit. With about 1.0bar @ 3000rpm & 1.5 bar @ 3800rpm & the headers back on should get a nice hit in the back. From what I have seen on 22b etc the 90° entry does not cause any problems re flow etc, so you should be fine with your setup. I have to go front entry as the 90° wouldn't fit and I would also have to change all the pipe work. So cut the end off get it welded on then machine it out, well thats the plan. Yes still got it. << Dave dude you have been a bizzy tart !!!! It is nice to see the inside of a turbo Have you got your new camera yet Dave??? My 300d is up for sale soon.. >> Always wanted to strip one, lets just hope it all goes back together. No I haven?t, on hold for the mo. How much you asking out of interest?

I'm sure you wont have trouble selling it, fine example.

<< Morning.. Anyone else got one of those colds that just WON'T shift? >> Aye, just got rid of a cold before Christamas and now got an other Evening dudes!

And also waiting to go on;

New turbo turned up this morning TD05-16G, upgrading as my IHI VF24 can't push past 330bhp, or should I say 320bhp with Manx fuel. Also the new unit is more robust which I need due to the occasional bit of over fuelling. As the unit has covered 80k already I knew a rebuild would be in order, this was confirmed when it arrived with a small amount of play in the shaft. So first to come off was the actuator that revealed how much of the wastegate is used, this will be ported slightly as there is a few mm spare. Next removing the compressor housing large c-clip holding this in place; Then remove the O-ring seal; Compressor blades in good condition; As is the compressor housing; Then remove water feed and return 2 19mm banjo bolts and the oil return 2 10mm bolts. A job for latter will be to convert the compressor housing from 90° entry to front entry; After a lot of WD40 and patience the main body was separated from the exhaust housing; Exhaust blades in good condition to; Next before going any further I marked the compressor wheel and exhaust wheel against the main body. This is because the shaft is balanced and I don?t have the tools to rebalance it. Compressor wheel removed 12mm socket on the exhaust wheel and 10mm on the compressor wheel nut; Next strip the main shaft and body, which is a collection of c-clips, bearings, thrust bearings and more clips; Thats the bulk of the unit stripped just got to wait for the rebuild kit to turn up now. So whilst am waiting on with the porting, this shows how much of a step there is from the up pipe to the exhaust housing, so next job is to get the grinder on it; Dont know if you want this Jim for the leggy site as a how to?

Belated happy birthday Andi & Graeme. Hope everyone had a good christmas.

<< << And have had a few fuelling issues with the car, which has resulted in yet an other gauge added to the car That's 10 in total now! >> 10? gaugetart erm dude >> Lol gets better, been driving around for the last week with a laptop on the passenger seat logging every trip, looks a bit suspect at night though! just surfing the web officer. Afternoon dudes. After getting the software for the gems I found the ecu is at fault not the fuel directly, ecu does not read over 8.6volt internally. Apparently a resistor fault which causes the injector compensation to run lean, so have to wait till new year to send it back to Gems for repair, luckily under warranty But have smoothed out a few maps and the car runs a lot better for it. Talking of which how?s your mapping going Jim? So whilst the car is out of action will be fitting a rear strut brace, front lower H brace and brake cylinder stopper. Just waiting on the post for me TD05 now. Ps anyone want to buy a defi fuel pressure gauge? Lol only joking be rude not to keep it now I have it!

<< Who lives where then? Unless he's moved DaveK is still in Patrick? Myself, I'm in Tromode. >> Yep still live in devil worshiping country, as a mate once called it!

Went up for a look, fairly busy, 2 scoob's. I didn?t take any pics, it was that cold I wasn?t taking me hands out of my pockets. Take it you were on your way up Graeme when I passed you?

Michael, sorry on slow response just seen this post, not been on for a while. As said before no, no one on island for mapping. You have about the biggest choice with a V5 for mapping/ecu, as Jim and Andrew said Link, Apexi, Gems, Pectel, Motec, Hydra........ or ECUtek the original ecu. All depends on what you are looking to do mod wise, if its just exhaust and filter then I would say ecutek it. Original ecu has more research and development time than aftermarket ecu's have, thus dependant on mapper, helps eliminate some of the problems associated with aftermarket ecu's ie cold/hot start etc. But aftermarket ecu's can also have extra options that out way the use of the OEM unit. Anyway back to the original question, you can fit exhaust and decat without any problems but also as you have been told it could go bang, no 2 cars are the same. I got away with some of my mods for a while as I added various gauges to monitor what was going on and also didn't rag the car as much, which I must admit has spoilt driving the car thinking it could go pop at any time. But the gems went in as I got a good deal and I was also limit to what my car can have done to it as it can?t be ecutek'd. Ultimately it's a gamble, going by the route I took I would say get it mapped from the outset so you can drive the car and not have to worry about possible issues.

Dudes!! I'm still here just been bloody busy with work & out on the pop. And have had a few fuelling issues with the car, which has resulted in yet an other gauge added to the car That's 10 in total now! Also the software for mapping the Gems should be on it's way Mr S. and a possible wideband purchase. And so more mods develop TD05, put headers back on, 550's......... Jim, think we may have a notes swapping session at some point as the theory is the same. Ps have you finished with those bits of hose? Jimmy, hope Chris is all sorted after Jurby.

<< Morning dudes. Front strut brace and Turbo timer fitted today. Had a panic with the Turbo timer, got it all fitted started working but I could not get the car to start , turns out that the immobiliser cable was not close enough to the key. Moved it and everything seems to be working now. >> 20" alloys next then?