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stuarted

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Everything posted by stuarted

  1. Yeah standard P1 block is defo open deck. I'd try pistonheads selling it as is. Lots of people outh there would be willing to take it on at the right price. As previous posts people would rather build their own engine to their specs
  2. All sorted, i'd inadvertently put the rears on the wrong side so the nipples were at the bottom, spent so much time worrying the fronts were on the right way missed what was staring me in the face! The new set up is amazing. So sharp it's unbelievable. They'll get their proper test at Knockhill at the end of the month! Cheers for all the input
  3. Think i'll be heading down
  4. I'm in work mate and the cars in the garage, will report back once i've had a shot tonight, providing nothing else goes wrong! Still to bed them in and some nice new coilovers to bed in too. Can't wait!
  5. Got the start of a pedal now after following the above noted bleed sequence. Thanks for the views/posts
  6. Yep Alan, bleeding the inside one first. Praying this diagonal bleeding sequence does the trick so I make Knockhill at the end of the month. Still got a geometry set up and was meant to get some paint done but that can wait!
  7. Thanks Alan. The nipples are opened when theres pressure then closed when at the floor. Found out theres a bleed sequence of pass front, drivers rear, drivers front then pass rear as the system is set up diagonally which is being tried by my mechanic right now. Fingers crossed!
  8. Cheers Euan Brand new AP's on the front and recon twin pots on the back. New washers all round. Just spent another hour with 3 mechanics on it and another litre of fluid. Tried ABS unit again, some device in front of the fluid resevoir all to no avail. Got it down to one pump to get a pedal, no creep indicating no air locks but come off and no pedal again. Totally at a loss
  9. ABS unit now bled, a tiny bit of air from one pipe but the others fine. It's holding a pedal after a few pumps so new master cylinder isn't leaking. Aaaaaaaaaaarrrgh!
  10. Just for fun use really. Totally burst the bank buying it and no money for mods for a while so I mentioned I had some meth for my track use. Wasn't sure if it was OK to use with the CAT/CAT's still in place?
  11. You don't have to map for it but for the best results a re-map is the way to go. Means you ALWAYS have to have a supply of it in the car though which can be problematic, the Police don't seem to like it rolling about in the boot!
  12. Afternoon all. Got some 355mm AP racing 6 pots on my P1 and the Subaru 290mm twin pot conversion for the rear. Replaced the master cylinder and tried everything from Easybleed to back bleeding. 3 pumps on the pedal and it's solid but come off and try again and nothing. Been told to try bleeding the ABS unit which is being done just now but my mechanic and me are at the end of our wits with it. Anyone got any other ideas? Cheers
  13. Is this OK to use? It's my mates motor, I use methanol in my modded P1 but don't want to cause any damage to someone elses car! Cheers
  14. Either or Graeme, i'm in Glasgow? Much appreciated. Stuart
  15. Canny source any anywhere. Just looking for a gallon. I'm in Glasgow. Thanks, Stuart
  16. Sorry I never made it, split a boost hose, although it sounds like it was a very cold day!
  17. 1)PaulC555 2)GaryD NEWAGE STI 3)Terzo Neil (as long as i can run a non scooby at it) 4)superstar_tradesman Classic V3 Sti 555 5)young-buck27 (hawkeye sti) 6)st3ph3n - if it's no broken! 7)rallye 6 8)tommytcut 9)Des 10)Z1000 if its after 22nd october 11)JAC - Newage sti or Audi quatrro 12) Higgy 13) Scoobymark - Newage Sti 14) jk0474 15) A Marshall. ( through superstar_tradesman) Classic Terzo 3 16) Fai17 Newage STI with FMIC 17) B9RY C 18) Coulty 19) FrazA 20) stuarted (Classic P1 (FMIC)) 21) euan_r (classic) 22) ewan (gto) 23) jim dbm
  18. They were in Possil but inn the process of moving down next to Partick train station. Guaranteed no scratches
  19. Toyo T1R, get ESP to fit them, Elite will do fou a good price
  20. On open roads they're fine, Andys got a top mount just now on the race car. Type 25 would probably be even better with a FMIC!
  21. my 550's were at 85% duty with the 20g. Catch tank stops oil going back into the intake which kills the mAF
  22. The car may make the above, but safety is paramount and you'd be pushing it. The difference in charge temps and lack of heat soak from the FMIC makes it easier and safer to achieve the big bhp figures. Also Andy runs his own cars closer to the edge than he would a customers car and I doubt Andy would map a 20g without a FPR or 550's
  23. 1)PaulC555 2)GaryD 3)Terzo Neil (as long as i can run a non scooby at it) 4)superstar_tradesman 5)young-buck27 6)whitelightning 7)st3ph3n - if it's no broken! 8) 9(rallye 6) 10)tommytcut) 11)STi_Bandit 12)Des 13)Z1000 if its after 22nd october 14)JAC 15) Higgy 16) Scoobymark 17) Gus the Bus (Just for the banter tho ) 18) TBC 19) Fai17 20) B9RY C 21) Coulty 22) John (Nothing else to do, seasons finished now) 23) FrazA 24) stuarted
  24. IMO you will need an FMIC, 550 injectors, a FPR and definitely a catch tank. APS Cold air kit APS FMIC ideally, otherwise RCM K&N kit and a cheapo FMIC. I've done it and I needed all of the above and it's happy witn 10%meth and NF
  25. Forge re-circ all the way
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