arch

OK mate cool If grieg cant supply the radiator mine is still their but since grieg is selling up I would prefer his to go first

Craig this would be a perfect time for you to reply to my PM

Thank you sir and like wise

When I say this I am assuming the eye bolt is attached/welded to the bracket which in turn is bolted under the original seat mount? If that is the case I have to be brutally honest and say I would not trust that bracket in an accident. If you look at the bracket it has a hole drilled in it and if pulled it would bend and deform along the line of the seat frame. I think an MSA steward would laugh at that as he told you that you were not running like that. Worst case scenario is the eye detaches from the bracket - not good. Eye bolts are designed to be bolted into the chasis at strategic points for a reason, the same reason that the seat belts are bolted directly to the chasis - your standard seat belt is probably safer!

Nick that wasnt the point i was making I am not bothered whether I sell it or not

The 4 pots are pretty effective brakes with decent pads. I ran them last year with new age 2 pots at the back and DS2500's all round and it proved pretty effective. Endless do a pad that you can get from Alyn at AS performance which perfoms as well as the DS2500 but is a little cheaper and has much better wear characteristics, I have these on my 55 plate WRX and am really pleased with them. You can fit a newage STI TMIC into a classic but it is a fair amount of work. If you look on my project thread you will see the Newage Blobeye WRX TMIC which I originally had fitted to the RA. This worked really well and fits really easily. I have removed it as I went down the FMIC route but could be persuaded to sell it along with all the necessary brackets and samco pipework, it would require a vent to atmoshere dump valve though. http://forums.sidc.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=122196&st=0 I also ran a set of 8X17 wheels with 235x45x17 tyres on the RA at a number of events (cheers John ) with a similar offset. I didnt have many issues perhaps a very light rub of the rear inner arch but I suspect I had a camber bolt move. My rear arches are rolled so not sure if you would get away with that width without the rolled arches and coilovers. It would be close. Hope this helps

Well I havnt updated this for a few months now and since John is blatantly flaunting his rear end in his Rocket thread it seems only fair I do the same. I have been busy at the rear of the car with absolutely everything removed from the rear suspension. I decided to give the rear end a rub down even though it was in very good condition with no rust at all. I painted the whole back end with POR 15 paint which goes on really nice and looks like it could have been sprayed on even though it is brush painted. The pics really dont do it justice. I done the centre of the underside last year and it still looks perfect. Before some smart individual says anything the trailing arm is just hanging there thats not how it mounts Also have some pics of the lateral arms I used last year they are just standard arms which I removed the old bushes had them powder coated and then fitted powerflex poly bushes. This year though I will be fitting a set of fully adjustable rose jointed lateral and trailing arms along with a few other changes. The car handled really well last year but I hope to get it a bit better still so that I can try and get a little closer to the boys with the big power I have also removed the powerflex diff carrier bushes I used last year which were a massive improvement over standard and fitted a set of much firmer Whiteline items - cheers Geo These had to be pressed in as opposed to the powerflex ones which are a push fit. Powerflex Whiteline even if they are blue I hope to have the back end completely rebuilt this week and then start on tidying up the inside as well as fitting a new cage and new dash. Then sort the front wheel wells with a lick of POR 15 and some new whiteline bushes for the alloy arm front mountings and a few more suspension tweeks. Might as well add some new brakes so i can brake a bit later as well well it would be rude not to change them since I have already sold the 4 pots fronts and two pot rears. Then the final hurdle will be a few engine tweeks to try and squeeze a little extra power out of the car

Looks crap

Cannot for the life of me understand why you want to go to a breakers when you are being offered bits for your car from members on here, with bits probably in better condition than from a breaker and possibly cheaper, bizarre

Not if you have a habit of ripping them off

Is there anyone travelling down from Arbroath for this. May have a few small parts that would be nice if soemone could bring them down or even if someone is coming down to Glasgow ish area before that

Simple job all you need is a single din head unit and one of the Forrester pockets. Get the pockets from the dealer. There are 3 pocket types a black one which has no hinged door and is just a pocket type affair, then there are the two silver forrester flap style pockets one has a hinged door which is the full width of the pocket and the other has a fixed bit about 1cm wide at one end and the rest is the hinged door. The pocket and single din unit mount pretty much on top of each other held together with the brackets and cage etc from the double din unit just removed. Depends what head unit you buy but you may also need a iso convertor lead which you can get from halfrauds for about £15. There are some ptetty good guides on scoobynet in the ice section that show how to remove all the trim and how to mount the single din head unit and pocket. I have listed the part numbers below but the prices may be out of date but are unlikely to have changed much. The head units fitted to the new age cars are pants. I changed all the speakers, fitted bigger components in the front and larger rears in the doors and fitted a single din head unit as well as a bit of dyno matting on the doors and it transformed the sound. Hope that helps. Stereo adapter autoleads head unit PC2-44-4 Silver Forester pocket with flap 66128SA000 £11.65 plus vat Siver Forester pocket with Flap full length 66128SA040 Black pocket 66128AE000 £18.27 plus vat Couple of links below but cant find the link which shows the head unit removal and how to mount the single din head unit and forester pocket but it is over on scoobynet in the ice section somewhere. http://www.connec2.co.uk/subaru/subaru.htm http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/ice-2/424816-gu...ard-05-wrx.html

I would and do always use Alyn at ASP top guy knows the cars inside out and prices are always very competative but then maybe I am biased

At the Scottish events the measurement is taken at 2/3rds max RPM so in "theory" that would be 4000 revs

Richie your problem is probably related to your eibach springs these seem really prone to clunking of the spring coils. Do you have the spring coil covers on them. The subaru problem seems to be pretty much confined to the rear shocks the fronts dont seem as unreliable. I was going to replace my springs with eibachs a while back but didnt bother due to the number of people complaining about clunking after changing to the eibachs. The suposed fix is to put a rubber coils round the spring coils to stop the metal clunks as the coils touch. Thats the explanation I got anyway but I wouldnt have expected the coils to be compressing enough under normal driving to start bottoming against each other

Def rear shocks had the same issue on my 55 plate wrx. Exact same symptoms. The shocks are known to fail and are not the best quality. If the cars still under warranty you will get them done no problem if not then oem replacements is probably not the way to go. If you open the boot and sit on the boot opening and push down to rock the rear of the car you will prob be able to reproduce it Welcome to the standard shocks are crap club

I have a radiator in good condition if you want it. I work down at the airport and am working Tue night. Looking for £50.

Looking good geo how easy did your rear hub bushes go in.

Drop cusco kid a PM and get a pair of whiteline bushes it will prob be around the same price but much better quality

lots of the above

Gearbox, front and centre diffs are all housed in the gearbox case so same oil feeds all

Hey Don at least they wont wear to quick if they are the hard compound

Geo How do they compare on price to pirtek

Now not to be one to say i told you so but the subframes i posted the links to on scoobynet have height adjustment and the ability to tilt them back and forward dependant on what holes are used.

each to their own I suppose but I personally wouldnt have them in a road car purely for comfort and ease of use.