Parts help

[Robbie09]

Does anyone know where I can purchase the following 

it’s out of stock at ICP

and they don’t know when it’ll be back in stock 

https://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=6394&cat=96&sub=97&sec=143&var=29&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

[The Don]

Link below will give you the part number (as they are now universal fit - Left and Right), but when this stuff will be available who knows

https://parts.subaru.com/p/subaru__/Brake-Dust-Shield-Right--Front/49235082/26290FE050.html

 

 

[Robbie09]

Ok thanks 

[t5nyw]

4 hours ago, Robbie09 said:

Ok thanks 

also taking out the bolts can be bigger issue than getting. so worth trying to remove first and copper slip back in. Making simpler job next time. some holes are blind and some are threaded right though the hubs.

if I've taking out 3 bolts one would shear off a better success rate method i found, clean out through hole and spray shed loads of WD40. Also spray over the back of plate hub seaps to the blind hole. leave over night even better respray more WD leave again for next day.

Next approx big hammer and 10mm round punch (or old short extensoin socket bar) hit the head of the bolt straght into hub very hard 3/4 times ish.  Then a little prayer spray more WD and undo.

hopefully may save drilling out and re tapping, may not.

tony

[t5nyw]

second hand try here

https://www.autoyas.com/GB/Darlaston/1030628683662708/MB-Developments

the chap posts as MattyBR5 is on most media forums

Tony

[Robbie09]

Thanks Tony.

Im restoring the scooby,it’s been in storage 6 years !!

due to buying a new house and totally renovating it (3 extensions)

And ive  actually built a garage to put it in lol (it was an afterthought)

 

so it’s now time to get it back on the road.

ive been putting WD40 on all nuts and bolts I need to take off for 3 days now.

ill do it again today and then again tomorrow before I attempt to take any off

i expect some to snap along the way as it’s 21 years old now!!!.(I’ve had it 19 years in July)

where does the time go !,

 

[ccrien]

Great advice from Tony in both posts above!

Reminds me of a few things:

The best most appropriate phrase ever heard:

"knowing when a seized / rusted bolt is about to snap comes with experience.

Usually, thats from a lifetimes worth of experience of breaking things."

I tried my electric impact socket wrench on the first bolt, thinking it would come out easily - -  sheared the head straight off - don' t do it!

you might be able to get a thin punch or drift in the back of the "straight through" hub threads to also tap the back of the bolts hard before trying to remove them?

if you need to drill any snapped bolts out, try drilling from the back, if its a straight through thread. I got lucky and the drill just somehow bit and wound the remaining bit of bolt straight out in the direction it was meant to come out! 

Tony' s right though, about 2 in every 3 come out OK.

best wishes for your restoration.

 

 

Edited April 12, 2020 by ccrien

[t5nyw]

The theory is any bolt that’s rocking tight, hitting it into thread shocks and stretches on the recoil.  And becomes losser. 
looks like your mechanically astute so apologies. Not a sucking eggs post.  as we have a very vast range of skills here  

I had access to left handed drills, easy outs and helicoil kit. 
Hardest is getting to drill central. Start with smallest drill first. Try NOT to bend and snap the drill as that’s a complete shitstorm.
 
The open hole can be worse as rusted from rear. But can wound right through with right hand drill.  The blind hole is normally clean once sheared off. 

good luck post some picks up ?

 

[ccrien]

On 12 April 2020 at 13:41, t5nyw said:

 

I had access to left handed drills

Great tip,

   Just ordered myself some.

[Lockheed]

Can bolts like this not be warmed up, also ive had some success tightening the bolt first and going back ward and forward, 

Ive also welded a bar to the bolt, gets it hot and give some leverage. 

[t5nyw]

5 hours ago, Lockheed said:

Can bolts like this not be warmed up, also ive had some success tightening the bolt first and going back ward and forward, 

Ive also welded a bar to the bolt, gets it hot and give some leverage. 

yes heat is a awesome tip. Welding on expands metal and weld cools it contracts can provide thermal shock    

Tip 1

I have rothenberger gas gun in my plumming kit real handy. it can start and stop instantly. Saves knocking over still lit  if not check car insurance first covers fire and theft  

Tip 2

Really need to heat the outside body so expands and cool the bolt in therory. So heat stub area (to expand) watch out for grases and oil etc. Then spay bolt head with cold WD40 (to contract) or even better pipe freezing spray. Caution hot wd40/Oil vapour "steam" can be VERY flammible and Flash

Tip 3

Bearing outer races in a bore and cannot get out. Far to tight and little to no lip to press or hit. We put runs of weld around the inside of outer race, let weld cool and weld "pulls" & contracts the race just falls out.

Tip 4

if inner race on a shaft is hard and fast no lip to press etc. put race anvil and hit hard with hammer, heavy cold chisel. if good hard race it will crack and split easy after 1 or 2 good hits. if doesnt put a knick along it with grinder an cold chisel in knick. If still does not snap, avoid using grinder to cut race in half as will cut shaft. Nomally least shat damage by using grinder flat. you will see difference as get nearly through to shaft sometimes blue and splits open.

Tip 5

Fitting bearings on shafts without press.

 Emerse bearings in a tin with oil and heat up in oven 80-120*c and expands them to so Slips on by hand to shafts. But once cool would need 50-200 ton press to get off.

please use eye protection, apprentice tapped a reamer with a hammer, peice hit him in eye VERY lucky never lost it. and other PPE 

Covid 19, should be leaving singapore now for Melboure 

Tony

[Robbie09]

On 12/04/2020 at 13:41, t5nyw said:

 

good luck post some picks up ?

 

How do I do this,it’s been many years and I’ve forgot,all though it’s probably changed now 

[The Don]

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