Fitting Whiteline Droplinks

[tommo9375]

Got some Whiteline alloy front droplinks last week and went about fitting them yesterday- just wondering if i did it correctly,heres what i done;

1; Removed wheel for easier access as i haven't got ramps

2;Put spare jack under alloy arm to help align new bolt

3; Removed old droplink

4; Fitted new droplink ,but had to pull Arb towards myself to be able to get the washer/nut on

5; Tighten up bolts

6; Put wheel back on.

Repeated same for other side.

Took the car for a run and the 'knocking' had gone,looked under the car when i returned and noticed because i had to pull on the Arb's to allow the washer/nut to go on, the bushes are now quite stretched,is this ok or should i have slackened the Arb bolts before fitting the droplinks?

Any advice appreciated.

Edited September 7, 2008 by tommo9375

[fiestajohn]

You should change drop links with the weight of the car on its wheels.

It can be done on the ground without ramps, but it is a bit awkward.

[euan_r]

no need to slacken arb tommo.

i did both sides at the same time with cement block under each wheel.

probably arb bushes slightly worn. i know my parents fozzy were after having knocking droplinks

[tommo9375]

You should change drop links with the weight of the car on its wheels.

It can be done on the ground without ramps, but it is a bit awkward.

Is it worth slackening the top bolt with the car wieght on the droplink to see if it makes any difference to the bush?

[tommo9375]

Will put up a pic to make it easier to see what i'm on about.

[tommo9375]

This is the drivers side;

[fiestajohn]

I think they are the wrong drop links for your car (with alloy arms)

They look like the ones for steel bottom arms to me.

[tommo9375]

They're KLC 30 droplinks converted to KLC 32'S by Whiteline,i checked with Hypertech before ordering and the said these are the correct alloy ones for a bugeye(with alloy arms)

Edited September 7, 2008 by tommo9375

[euan_r]

is the big washer on the right side? check instructions again

[tommo9375]

is the big washer on the right side? check instructions again

Thats the way they're fitted in the instructions Euan.

[tommo9375]

is the big washer on the right side? check instructions again

Thats the way they're fitted in the instructions Euan,would it matter what side the washers go?

[fiestajohn]

I don't know much about newage cars but I know that classics with alloy arms use different drop links with spherical rod ends.

What did your old drop links look like?

[scouk]

These front drop links are more hassle than they are worth TBH... Not for fitting but because of the dodgy advice going around..

When I researched it a few months ago I got completely confussed.. But here's the facts:

Whiteline KLC30 = Used with WRX Steel wishbones to replace "plastic" drop links

Whiteline KLC32 = Used with WRX alloy wishbones and STi's to replace the "ball joint" drop links

Due to the confusion and the shortage of whiteline parts in teh UK at the time I opted for Perrin drop links which have a fancy bearing on them isntead of a ball joint.. But... I think Scooby-Girl had problems with the perrin ones not longer after fitting them and I get a creaking noise form the from of the car since fitting them.. to be honest if I was going to replace them again in the future I'd just buy the steel OEM ones.. Hugely cheaper and they are still made of strong stuff (not plastic).. So the difference between OEM and these "perfomance" ones is probably none.. Unless you replace the ARB's as well.

YOur not the only one with the wrong type of drop links.. I have seen loads of cars now both in the real world and online uing the KLC30's on the wrong type of car after being reccomended them.... They still work.. But they don't line up properly and hte bushes will burst prematurely due to the excess pressure on them...

[tommo9375]

I don't know much about newage cars but I know that classics with alloy arms use different drop links with spherical rod ends.

What did your old drop links look like?

The old ones had bearings,but spoke to Duncan at Hypertech and they're are 2 types of whiteline droplinks i could have used ,1 with bearings and the ones in the picture.I chose these as the bearing ones tend to squeak and get noisy after time.

Edited September 7, 2008 by tommo9375

[scouk]

Here's a pic of the KLC32's

Thing is due to the design.. Both the Bearing and Polyboosh versions will wear out.. But With the added pressure/twist on the whiteline ones, they are more likely to wear out quicker.. Whereas the bearing ones "should" last longer if they are kept sealed and don't get dirt caught in them..

[euan_r]

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z321_KLC30.pdf

check again

personally i would have fitted standard ones again. ball joint is better but wares out quicker, however genuine ones are only like 30 pound or something for a pair. subaru didnt fit ball joints just for the hell of it.

there are no gains to be made by changing any droplinks only the rear u shaped ones that are made from plastic or something.

[scouk]

personally i would have fitted standard ones again. ball joint is better but wares out quicker, however genuine ones are only like 30 pound or something for a pair. subaru didnt fit ball joints just for the hell of it.

there are no gains to be made by changing any droplinks only the rear u shaped ones that are made from plastic or something.

100%! That's after me going through the hassles....

Also the front of the car doesn't feel right since fitting them... It's stiffer but I think it coudl have made it too stiff for our "technical scottish" roads.... Just my thoughts from experience... I'll be getting OEM ones next time..

[tommo9375]

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z321_KLC30.pdf

check again

personally i would have fitted standard ones again. ball joint is better but wares out quicker, however genuine ones are only like 30 pound or something for a pair. subaru didnt fit ball joints just for the hell of it.

there are no gains to be made by changing any droplinks only the rear u shaped ones that are made from plastic or something.

I think your right enough about the washer ,don't think it'll make a difference though.So it looks like i've wasted £80 on these and would have been better putting on 'stock ones'.

[fiestajohn]

They do seem to do the right ones (KLC32) for your car according to the Whiteline website (and if Duncan at Hypertech says so that is good enough for me)

I would have another go at fitting them with the weight of the car on its wheels if I were you though, to see if they sit any better.

[scouk]

So it looks like i've wasted £80 on these and would have been better putting on 'stock ones'.

That's how I felt about mine... But they are on now.. Sure they may creek but they are doing the job so their staying on till they break/fail.... Lesson leant...

Got whitelines on the rear and they are spot on!

[tommo9375]

Cheers everyone for the advice,think i'll try re-fitting them with the car on the ground and see if it makes any difference.Bought some rear whiteline droplinks as well ,so they should be easier to get to and fit.

[Casper Spec D]

Hi mate see you got your droplinks I posted up last time when you were asking about the whiteline stuff I have the same droplinks all round and they are stiffer and you do get a bit of noise but they settle down after a while.As for the spherical ones whiteline said that they are not intended for our climate and will cause a shortened life of the ball joints hence why you where supplied with KL32's as was I from AWD.

[cusco kid]

This is the drivers side;

tommo thats the wrong type m8 they are for metal lower arms

you need klc 39 bud geo

[dipsy]

Cusco Kid are you meant to strip and clean and regease the klc 39 drop links every so often???

Edited September 7, 2008 by Dipsy

[euan_r]

theres been probs with klc39 has there not?

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/suspension-12/683...drop-links.html