jimser Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 But how will bending the fork give you a longer throw? It'll relieve the pressure on the piston all right but if the pivot and points of contact remain the same so will the throw. throw was only too short with shorter piston,with original piston i just need to relieve the pressure on the bearing. bending the fork will hopefully give me that and enough throw to engage gear.this is no black and white solution as when i spoke to mark at lateral on friday he said there is no way i should have fitted a 5 speed kit in a 6 speed gearbox
jimser Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 I have heating equipment at work. Workshop is the next farm up from AVA behind Glasgow airport. Can be organised for you to use it on a Saturday afternoon. stewart if i cant get anything sorted before saturday i might just take you up on that offer,thanks
colin_ross Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 I think I see what you're getting at. You want my spare fork so you can bend two of them at diffeerent angles and see what works best?
StewartyBoy Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 stewart if i cant get anything sorted before saturday i might just take you up on that offer,thanks Just give me a PM mate. Plenty of tools and equipment use there.
fai17 Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 trying to bend it in situ may prove difficult as there may not be enough leverage. i hope it works out for you Jimser
StewartyBoy Posted June 1, 2008 Posted June 1, 2008 trying to bend it in situ may prove difficult as there may not be enough leverage.i hope it works out for you Jimser If an Agricultural workshop cant bend it, then he's no chance thats for sure!
jimser Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 I think I see what you're getting at.You want my spare fork so you can bend two of them at diffeerent angles and see what works best? again colin i appreciate the offer,i've got a spare 5 speed fork here which i've compared to the 6 speed fork which looks like it would make matters worse,which makes the whole episode even more confusing.i must admit though if this gets the better of me then it will be a first!i suppose none of us are invincible after all lol
jimser Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 trying to bend it in situ may prove difficult as there may not be enough leverage.i hope it works out for you Jimser stop being peter,you must know by now we're hardcore
jimser Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 Just give me a PM mate. Plenty of tools and equipment use there. cheers mate
jimser Posted June 1, 2008 Author Posted June 1, 2008 you are hard core m8.......i just drive fast remember
AlanG Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) Jimser If i'm reading this right it sounds like you have reduced the throw the slave cylinder can move, therefore the best solution would be to get some 5mmish thick flat bar and drill 4 holes, two for the gearbox casing and two for your slave cylinder. This will allow you to position the slave cylinder in the correct position and give a slight clearance needed for the clutch release arm, which will stop the clutch slipping, but will also allow full travel for the clutch slave cylinder, so that the clutch releases enough to engage gear. The plate will have two holes for the slave cylinder above and further back from the two holes used for the gearbox casing. Keep the two drilled and tapped holes for the slave cylinder as close to the gearbox casing holes in terms of height as much as possible. Edited June 2, 2008 by AlanG
AlanG Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 Ignore the bracketry surrounding the cylinder, that's for a Giken clutch which has the cylinder reversed, but you get the idea.
nanaki Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) you know as much as it amazes me that people on here come up with weird and wonderful solutions to problems... I find it even more incredible that most of you mad lot seems to have a picture gallery of every engine part, mod and bodge job available. Onward with the hardcore!! Edited June 2, 2008 by Nanaki
thewelsho Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) you know as much as it amazes me that people on here come up with weird and wonderful solutions to problems... I find it even more incredible that most of you mad lot seems to have a picture gallery of every engine part, mod and bodge job available.Onward with the hardcore!! I'd just like to know what it all meant! But not to take away from your point; amazing what people know. Edited June 2, 2008 by TheWelsho
jimser Posted June 2, 2008 Author Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) JimserIf i'm reading this right it sounds like you have reduced the throw the slave cylinder can move, therefore the best solution would be to get some 5mmish thick flat bar and drill 4 holes, two for the gearbox casing and two for your slave cylinder. This will allow you to position the slave cylinder in the correct position and give a slight clearance needed for the clutch release arm, which will stop the clutch slipping, but will also allow full travel for the clutch slave cylinder, so that the clutch releases enough to engage gear. The plate will have two holes for the slave cylinder above and further back from the two holes used for the gearbox casing. Keep the two drilled and tapped holes for the slave cylinder as close to the gearbox casing holes in terms of height as much as possible. Ignore the bracketry surrounding the cylinder, that's for a Giken clutch which has the cylinder reversed, but you get the idea. thanks for the input alan,after much deliberation tonight i've decided to cut my losses,take the 5 speed clutch out while it's still got value and buy the right clutch for the job.mark(lateral)reckons i'd be on the limit with this carbon clutch anyway so i'm going to get this sorted once and for all and have a bit of piece of mind.just don't think any of the other solutions were going to be 100% right long term.thanks again jim ps.twin plate carbon 5 speed clutch for sale shortly if anyones interested? Edited June 2, 2008 by jimser
fai17 Posted June 2, 2008 Posted June 2, 2008 (edited) sorted.... good on my m8..never be put on a downer.. onwards and upwards m8...now get it ready for Crail. Edited June 2, 2008 by fai 17
jimser Posted June 2, 2008 Author Posted June 2, 2008 here there and eveywhere lol oh the famous beatles song
AlanG Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 (edited) What's the twin plate carbon rated at and what's recommended to change it to? Edited June 3, 2008 by AlanG
fai17 Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 What's the twin plate carbon rated at and what's recommended to change it to? He is changing to a 6 speed clutch like on mines Alan.
AlanG Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 Certainly the larger diameter clutch of the 6 speed can help future proof for further mods, but that bracket is sold by RCM now to counteract the issues Jimser is seeing. The 6 speed that went into mine after i sold the car still had the 5 speed clutch in it. The only reason the clutch in there just now is slipping is because the release fork has been putting pressure on the cover plate continually. As an aside the 1/4 mile times could have been even better if that problem wasn't there!!
thewelsho Posted June 3, 2008 Posted June 3, 2008 Certainly the larger diameter clutch of the 6 speed can help future proof for further mods, but that bracket is sold by RCM now to counteract the issues Jimser is seeing. The 6 speed that went into mine after i sold the car still had the 5 speed clutch in it.The only reason the clutch in there just now is slipping is because the release fork has been putting pressure on the cover plate continually. As an aside the 1/4 mile times could have been even better if that problem wasn't there!! Does that mean that clutch plate is not fully engaged with the flywheel thus less friction and less power?
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