Kenny.S

Whats wrong with that? I'd say it was being quite resourceful! I've done similar things on a lathe, it's quite normal to use a lathe to spin things up and then finish or polish them by hand using wet'n'dry paper or a small peice of cloth. If you were to get them done professionally they would do the exact same thing except it would be on a big lathe.

I've not been on here much since i overcame my Subaru illness It's probably been commented on before but i like your signature That onboard video of him quailfying at monaco is truely awesome! All the best with the career, hope you get where you want to be. Kenny

Had i not been stuck on an oil rig 100miles offshore i can assure you all i would have been there. Just like to say well done to Grant and everyone who attended for organising this and showing the rest of the world the following he had and what he meant to us all. I truely am lost for words, the man was a complete legend and will never be forgotten I cant get youtube out here but this should be a link to a short clip of him, car control is an understatment RIP Colin Kenny

I touch goats

You going to be about tomorrow morning Andy?

You probably could do it with the box still sort of in position but i think it would just make things harder imho, best just to take it out. I'm no expert but ill do my best, this is how i did mine recently, others may have slightly different methods and i dont know how much you already know so appologies i've i'm telling you things you already know Do all the bits under the bonnet first: Disconnect the battery Remove tmic if you have one, Remove starter, Remove clutch slave cylinder but dont undo the line just unbolt it from the g/box and tie out the way Remove g/box stabiliser and bracket Remove speedo cable or pickup Disconnect any other wiring Undo the bolts you can holding the downpipe to the turbo, best do this from completely cold as there is a better chance of the bolts coming off. Remove plug from N/S of g/box using 10mm allen key, pull clutch pivot pin out using 6mm bolt, this will allow the clutch fork to go loose and be disengaged from the release bearing. Slacken off the top bellhousing bolts but leave in place for now, i put the long starter one back in loose. Slacken front wheels Get the car up on 4 axle stands, 16" or so should be enough, you could do it with just the front of the car on stands but at some point you'll need to lift the back wheels off the ground so that you can turn the prop shaft. You dont need to do it strictly in this order but you'll get the jist of it Remove downpipe Drain oil from g/box other wise it'll leak out when you remove the prop. Remove front wheels Remove anti roll bar drop links Remove roll pins from inner cv joint using a flat ended punch think it's about 4 or 5mm, just make sure the punch doesnt go up the inside of the roll pin or you'll get it stuck! They should tap out relatively easily. Remove split pin from bottom ball joint, undo 19mm nut, depending on when they where last removed you might need to give the wishbone a chap with a hammer round the area where the tapered part of the ball joint goes through it, push down on the wishbone to free it from the ball joint, hope that makes sense [:^)] Do this on both sidesYou should now be able to free the shafts from the g/box Undo the nuts from the centre of the propshaft, note: you must undo the nuts dont try to undo the bolts as they cannot turn, the head of the bolt is upagainst a flat on the propshaft. Remove propshaft, you may still get a little dribble of oil so have a wrag handy. Disconnect / remove gearlinkage Remove the x2 10mm studs from the bottom of the bellhousing by double nutting them, if you have a 754 g/box and a phase 2 engine you'll have another 4 bolts to remove Slacken bolts on g/box subframe Support g/box with a suitable jack You might want to get an extra pair of hands for this bit but it is do-able on your own, remove subframe and take weight of g/box on the jack Split the g/box from the engine, (easier said than done) once your satisfied that its free, fully remove the remaining bolts from the top of the bellhousing, i just do this so it cant fall when your not expecting it, especially if your on your own. Wrestle, shout, swear until gearbox is off [] note; the engine will want to tip forward slightly when the g/box is off, if your engine mounts are in good shape it wont move too far but you may still want to support it, ie tie it back against the bulkhead. The box weighs about 59kgs Hope thats of some use to you, Cheers Kenny edit: in the time i took me to write that lot i didnt realise you'd replied Wuz [] Wasn't aware that you could get the shafts off with the wishbones still in place?

As soon as it's mapped ill be along to the next monthly meet [Y]

I saw you just outside Cardross, i tried to get a wave in but you'd already passed. Your car is looking pretty darn awesome !!

Providing i dont get sent offshore i should be going back over to see Andy on the 15th of June to get the final map done []

It's a Lateral Performance kit, from what i've heard the Pace one isnt very good.

Dont worry i will []

With some help from Pavlo I eventually managed to figure out what was up with the iscv, i had the fecker wired up the wrong way [:$] I also had a bit of an issue with water temps which appear to be due to a faulty thermostat, i put the std 78 deg one back in and it's working fine. It was supposed to be getting mapped on the 5th of june but i think i'm going to wait and use this date to get a running in map put on it then do some more miles and go back the following week to get it mapped. On the up side though it passed it's mot []

All the various bits back from powder coating I got a bit engrosed putting it back together and forgot to stop and take pictures Not far away I took the plugs out and turned it over on the starter for 15 seconds or so left it for a few seconds then did the same again. Put the plugs back in and it fired up [] the oil pressure came up within 5 seconds. It sounds fine mechanically but it wont idle worth a dam It hunts between 1k and 2.5k. After a bit of fiddling around i tried unplugging the iscv and it got better, i loosened the screws on the driver and turned it till i got a steady idle, as soon as i put the plug back on it starts hunting again? Interestingly enough doing this doesn't cause the cel light to come on. As you'll see from the pictures i've got the iscv remote mounted but i never really thought that this in it's self would cause an idle problem, but it looks like i could be wrong. I cleaned it with brake cleaner before i fitted it and it was moving freely. Any ideas or suggestions much appreciated. Cheers Kenny

Cheers Colin, but if i did this for a job it would spoil it as a hobby, besides i doubt anyone would be willing to pay for the amount of hours required to make some of the parts. The maf isnt really any closer to the air filter than normal, i'm pretty sure the turbulence issues are caused by having the maf too close to the turbo. However it remains to be seen how badly it suffers from lift off judder on part throttle.

Cheers Grant, It's taken so long to get this far i cant believe that it's almost ready to fire up, just hope it does!! lol The iscv was actually one of the most time consuming annoying problems i had to solve, it was by pure luck more than anything that i stumbled across that iscv which is actually from a twin turbo legacy. The inlet is a straight pipe as apposed to pointing down or to the side. Once i had that it made things a whole lot easier. It's booked in for a re-map on the 5th of June so it looks like i'm going to miss the "June Run" hopefully there will be another one later in the year?

Didnt realise it'd been so long since i last updated this. My car used to have a 90deg turbo inlet and as such the powersteering pipes at the pump end where right in the middle of where the new inlet pipe wanted to go. I looked at using ps pipes from a phase 1.5 car but i also had to make a new bracket for the ps pump, to lower it down closer to the block in order to get the intercooler pipe to clear the pulley. This left me with no option but to have new hoses made, i got them done by a company called spectrum hose, they were very helpful and new exactly what i was after. I just sent them the metal part of my original pipes and told them how long i wanted them, The throttle linkage was clashing with the alternator so i had to make a new bracket for that too This was the first idea i had for a tensioner but i wasnt happy about the belt being doubled back on it's self, the belt can cope with it but i just didnt look right. I've made a much simpler set up now but i dont have any pictures of it. You can also see the dv set up in this one If you recall i was also going to bond the element from my original maf into the trumpet for the air filter but once again i had a change of plan on this and decided to go for a 300zx maf, it also means i can change it easily if need be. I made up a flange from a bit of 6mm ally plate, yes it did take ages, chopped the trumpet down and then made the two a snug fit, leaving the trumpet shy of the other side, i then had it welded from the back (maf side) once the weld was carefully filed down and smoothed off with some 320 wet'n'dry on a flat plate, the weld was almost invisable I was hoping that when i turned the manifold round the iscv would clear the bonnet but sods law, it didnt, after a lot of trial and error i ended up mounting it here The pipe stubs for iscv feed and return from the dumpvalve Inlet pipe in position with the return pipe from the dumpvalve fitted, if you think it looks like its a pig to fit you'd be right ! When i had to move the ps pump that also meant that i had to remote mount the reservoir, I cheated a wee bit with the header tank, i saw it on the rcm car so i gave them a call and asked for the same thing [] it fits up there quite nicely. Due to the size of the throttle body wedge the std throttle cable bracket held the cable too far back, i could possibly have got a different cable but it was easier to make a new bracket I've done a few other wee bits and bobs but that's it pretty much up to date. Before i came offshore i sent all the brackets away to be powder coated so hopefully they'll be there when i get back, along with the last few bits i need, If everything goes to plan i should get it fired up next weekend [] Kenny

Hopefully ill have the car finished in time for this one [] Kenny

Once you've got the belt off, if the pulleys spin freely, and they sound a bit "wirry" then they're getting a bit loose, they could quite probably last for some time like this but it's impossible to quantify. If they turn nice and smoothly by hand but cant be spun the seals are still in good shape and they "should be ok" but if you can afford to, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change them while you've got the chance, i cant say i've ever heard of a main idler pulley failing, tensioner maybe, but if one of them did, the cost of replacing them in hindsight would seem pretty reasonable. Kenny

Car looks ace, What make off boss is that?

It's a 3 bolt one, GT spec II i think, what ever Mark supplies. Managed to get it on with out too much grief, just had to turn it slightly to get it between the head and the cradle. The bolt nearest the head is a bit awkward but i managed to get it with 2 stubby spanners. You know you love them [] Kenny

I know it would of been easier to put the up pipe on with the engine out but i've got to have new power steering pipes made so leaving the up pipe off will make getting in there a bit easier. I had a look last night before i was near froozen to death and i didnt think the up pipe looked that bad? suppose ill find out sooner or later, but i didnt really have much choice. I've still got a long way to go yet, as i mentioned earlier i need to make a new mounting bracket for the power steering pump and i'm using one of those tiny little nippon denso alternators so i need to make a braket and adjuster for that. Kenny

Had a pretty productive day. I went over to John Stevenson's in the morning to pick up a special clutch alignment tool [] Worked a treat too Then it was time to try and get the bugger in It actually wasn't too bad, half an hour or so and it was in The manifold thats on it just now was just to lift it in, i should hopefully get my reversed one back in a few days. Ill probably put the up pipe and turbo on tomorrow and then start working some things out, like where the header tank's going, power steering reservoir, pipes.... Kenny

It wasnt so much because it was lightened, more the fact that i wanted a single pulley with 5 vee's, it would take too long to try and explain what i'm up to but all will become clear in time [] I'm not sure how much longer it's going to take, with any luck the engine might be in tonight and then i can make a start on all the bits i've got to make.

It's nothing special, it was an ebay effort, cost me something like £40 delivered, i could have bought an expensive one but i hope i dont have to use it that often!