Kenny.S

Yeah thats me, could possibly do with moving the front arb up a notch

Some good pictures there Stephen

In light of the current shortages of V-Power and the numerous reasons flying about regarding why, did you get any more info on this Davie and whether or not Shell are indeed adding 5% ethanol to their fuels? Have to say, if they are, it would have been nice of them to announce it and keep customers informed and warn of potential distuption to supplies, but then I guess that might just trigger panic buying and make the situation worse Kenny

The clocks output a speed signal to the ECU, at 112mph the ECU activates the limiter by putting a converter in the speedo cable, effectively slowing it down, the limiter is still there but it's at 180mph so doesn't cause many people any issues. Only other way I know of is to fit a different ecu

Have the injectors been disturbed during the rebuild, by that I mean where they removed from the rails to be cleaned/tested etc? Also be worth checking all the grounds in the engine bay, top of stut towers, chassis legs etc as a bad ground can effect the function of the O2 sensor, or more so, what the ecu sees

Took you 2 days to think of a come back and thats the best you could do

No Worries John I didnt get a chance to take any pictures out on track, just a few in the garage

Grp B stuff is awesome, especially the Audi. Totally different noise altogether but equally awesome imho

Ace!!

You can adjust boost from the commander (from what your saying i assume there's no stand alone boost controller like an AVC-R? ) iirc you can set 4 different boost levels on the pfc each one mapped accordingly, it's safe to swap between these as you wish but I would go turning the boost up by altering the boost profiles. As has been mentioned Andy will have mapped the car to the boost level he feels is right for the spec of the car. If your not keen on the noise from the hks ssq you could fit an uprated re-circulating type dumpvalve which will probably improve the way the car drives and also gives the turbo an easier time when your cruising on a light throtte.

Depending on what the previous owner requested when it was mapped, the actual map tables may be locked so you cant easily alter anything by mistake. If you just want it to display some information, knock count, water temp etc this has some useful info, may be for skylines but the info is essentially the same http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

How do you tell them to keep hold of the points and let them accumulate? Couldnt see the option when I logged in online? I wanted to do this but they keep sending me the vouchers for £4 or £5, would rather save them up for a few months and get a tanks worth of fuel with them.

Retaining the phase 1 inlet manifold the biggest top mount your likely to get in there is a v3/4 or possibly a 2002 wrx unit, believe Dave (drb5) did this on his RA a number of years ago. Getting either of the units in, will probably require some alteration (read batter with a hammer!) to the gearbox stabiliser mount, not pretty but nobody will see it unless you later decide to go front mount. You will also need to modify the end tank of the intercooler where the dumpvalve goes in order to clear the idle speed control valve. Which ever one you fit it'll be difficult to make it look factory ie it'll most probably look like you shoehorned it in! Or, and this will require quite a lot of work, you can fit the phase 1.5 inlet manifold which gives you alot more room to play with and with this manifold you can fit the V7> Sti intercooler. It would involve a converting the turbo to front entry, different power steering pipes and a few other bits and pieces, it's all doable but like i said, it is quite a lot of work. The other consideration you have is that the early scoop is quite a bit smaller than the facelift one, not so much in height but area. You have a few options, leave it be and see how it goes, Modify the scoop and make it slightly taller or buy one if theres one available. Again a bit extreme for most people but, there is the option of putting a facelift bonnet, lights and grill on it. If you retain your early bonnet you'll need to make up some sort of undertray to try and channel the air through the core. As for the strut brace, I wouldnt give your self the extra hassle of trying to retain it, sell it on ebay and get some money for it, they do next to feck all anyway, imho anyway Kenny

Bobbing about on the same FPSO I was on last time (Floating Production, Storage, Offloading) I only got home on Wednesday evening, boss phoned first thing Monday morning in a mad panic needing 4 guys to come back out on the Tuesday, hopefully only here for a week though. Mrs wasn't best pleased!

Aye, but dis it dae hawnies

Looks vaguely familiar

Suppose it's not too shabby

Car's looking great You didnt happen to stop for a McD's last night around 6:15pm did you? Looking at some of the pictures on here and reading some of the last posts and it certainly looks like it was you. I was in my GF's Clio, currently car-less but hopefully that might change soon

When you put it together i take it you've tried nipping it up, slacken it off a bit and repeat a few times to help seat the copper washer? Sometimes works better than just tightening it right up in one go. An aluminium washer might have more give in it. I dont know if thread lock would help for this, the leak path is between the banjo, the copper washer and the head so sealing the thead wont help, oil will go up the centre of the bolt and still find it's way to the washer. You could change the fitting in the head to a male/male adapter M10x1.25 to -4 (or whatver size you oil feed hose is) and change you oil feed pipe to suit. This way you could use thread lock, as you would be stopping the oil getting to the washer in the first place, assuming nothing can get up between the heli-coil and the head, which it shouldnt do to be fair.

The washer shouldnt get distorted, even if the hole is slightly bigger, i take it you heli-coiled it back to the original thread? Is the heli-coil definately in 100% straight? If it's off slightly it'll tighten up on one side before the other, possibly not by much but it could be enough.

As long as there's 2-3mm of flat surface for the washer to press against it should seal up fine. Who put the Heli-coil in?

If you want to be really picky i think they're actually wrong at both ends they wouldn't reach if you just tried to swap the ends over.

Car's looking good Colin, i never realised how long it had been either, it'll all be worth it the first time you give it the beans! Oh and just one small thing, you do know you've got the header tank pipes mixed up Kenny

By the sounds of it though it's already stuck open