Jon B

when the prodrive parts are going giz a shout mate..... a mate of mine will take them

you won't get told to mot it but you will get a producer and a defect notice which you have to take to an mot station for them to stamp which states that at the time they saw it the plate was in fact road legal... ie spacing and lettering was legal...

i've always had the smaller rectangular plate on the front ... (like the new bike plates) and standard on rear....

IMO all that should matter is that speed cameras (the feckers) can read you're rear plate clearly as that is all they see.....

maxy u from airdrie?????? ur missus called laura by chance????

absolute load of bull****.... lol

no way that much has been spent for power it supposedly has... pmsl :D :lol:

condition of the paint on the manifold means nowt mate..........

to be honest....... go painted!!

i'm a time served painter/panel beater....

powder coat is ok but the lacquer is too thick......

slight stone chip/kerb incident will have the lacquer of in months...

best choice is paint....if lacquer gets nicked its an easy fix....if powder coat lacquer gets cracked you got a heap load more work to put right..

i had a mate who paid £400 to get his wheels powder coated gold...3 weeks later they were ****ed........

Mind get the pics up mate

found out what i need woooo hoooo

the core plug goes in the water crossover pipe that sits under the manifold...!!!!

i can get on with getting my baby sorted now lol

it depends how bad the damage is mate..... in some cases you can get away with rubbing down and re applying lacquer......its all to do with the prep work....

sounds a bit rattly mate..... then again thats me comparing it to my engine......

you could try kartboy hangers for the rear box and maybe centre section.... they do longer than standard ones so may well create some extra clearance...

oh and welcome to the forum mate

try 1st central mate you'll find them in google.........

they are insuring my scoob £390.....

looks like i'm gonna have to get pics up.....

the blocks i've looked at didn't have core plugs either....

i'm confused.com.....if the plug isn't for the block and isn't for the manifold then what can it be for?????.....

thats the one mate

just that when i look at bare blocks i cant seem to see the core plug

imho it could be a problem with shock mounts??? seeing as SPOT2 is having same issue.....?

then again could be exhaust being close enough under certain circustances where it is in contact with the body...???

i had to fit kartboy longer mounts to mine cos the exhaust using standard mounts was hitting rear arm mounts due to increased bore of my centre section/rear box pipework....

as dipsy was saying....???

mine hits the rear inner mounts of rear lower arms using original exhaust mounts....radius of bend combined with increased bore of pipework was causing knocking...thats on a my98 classic though.....

meercat have done a few systems on cars that i have done engine conversions on and the quality of workmanship is

they are one of the few company's out there who take pride in ther work....

richie if you don't mind me asking how much was the snakehead mate???

are you an officer of the law????

got a few questions for you lol.....

no probs mate i heard that you know your stuff from stewartyboy....

to describe it....

after removing i/c

look down under throttlebody...you can see the hard return pipe from the factory d/v...

below that is a core plug about size of 10p piece....

looking at bare blocks its not there.....

core plug runs directly below throttlebody and is below the return pipe....kinda hard to get pics cos of hoses and **** in the way....

i'll get pics up the morra...... after i see to jef's avcr

cheers for that

thing is that when i take me i/c out and look down underneath the hard return pipe for the oem d/v there's a core plug which is fecked but looking at pictures of bare blocks it aint there... just wondering....if its on the manifold or ????... does anyone have an engine that aint in a car that they could maybe look at and give me the size of the core plug???

dunno mate its a my 98 uk turbo 2000 classic facelift model.....

would i be right in saying that there is a core plug below the throttle body on the manifold???? the original hard return pipe for the dv runs just above it???

you will always get more for it selling private cos it'll be going to someone who knows what its worth.... most car dealers base there prices on book price regardless of whether its standard or got an all singing all dancing big power engine......

me personally i'd go with what book price is for a standard car whether car ur looking at is modded or not and take cash off for cars with more than average mileage for year..... i count that as 10,000 a year.... i do on average 7,000 if i'm lucky.....

as far as service history goes then if its got full service history (dealer stamped) then its book price.... part history gets classed as having none.....

as far as scoobs being worth feck all i'd kinda agree......

i got my 00 plate scoob classic sport wagon with full dealer stamped history and and all available factory add ons only 48,000 on the clock with 1 owner for £1000 and that car was as fresh as the day it rolled off the production line...ashtray had never been used and you could have eaten your breakfast off the underneath...

at the same time though i disagree cos there's classics out there on 98 plates pulling 3 or £4000 with a few light mods...depends on the market i suppose.....

just been lookin at an ej20 block here...http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/subaru-ej20-engine-block_W0QQitemZ230422190245QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item35a63b98a5

and i've noticed that there aint any core plugs at rear above bell housing which makes me think the manifolds are water cooled/heated....

would that be correct???

if that be the case then my manifold has blown the core plug which means cheap fix...will any turbo inlet manifold fit a 98 turbo 2000???

how you get on with your parts hunt mate???

i'll second that me personally i'd have the sti....

list of parts needed so far:....

new water pump

core plug (for rear of block)

new timing belt/ tensioner/idlers etc changed while i'm at it...anyone got a tutorial on doing the timing belts??

MORAL IOF THIS STORY IS.....CHECK YA ANTIFREEZE.... LOL

hopefully that'll get her back on the road till after mot time in march.....

then after that i'll be on my quest for more power...

Keeping body standard...... she's got a jun splitter on at mo with crystal pack

thinking sti 6 rear spoiler/new set of wheels....