supremeweb

Depends on other mods. FMIC without other changes can cause lag.

I would just have my car taken with me!

Plan for today is to finish painting the underside of the car at the front - second coat the hubs and a few engine parts and now that I have managed to remove the headers, take the up pipe off. Got a reconed pair of 4 pots for the front this week so going to paint them tomorrow and then build them later in the week. Not sure wether to paint them complete or do it in two halfs? Probably decide tomorrow. Hopefully take some pics and get them added too..... Still no joy on the Coilover front..... still looking for a GB.......

I had a great day too - my first track day! I had the 02 plate STi with "THE OFFICE" written all over it as my 1995 beasty still aint ready. Great banter, friendly folks and so much fun, will defenatly be back! Hope I did not get in anyones way, especially with my unique line on the 3rd turn. Later found out thats why I was eating tyres! And resorted to a better line. Went through £140 worth of fuel that day! Think I removed quite a bit of the o zone layer! Wont print anything at work for a month to make up for it! Anyone know where all the pics from the many photographers will be? Next time taking the slicks for sure! And gunna invest in some mudflaps so that the guys in the CARS RECOVERY SEAT wont get so covered in my dust

Been mainly cleaning and painting under the car with my many tins of POR15 and some engine parts with POR15 then top coated with lovely smooth finish hammerite. Seems everything I take off needs a good cleaning, preping and painting. Hit a major problem with my exhast uppipe when I tried to remove it though, so not made any posts as a result. A nut partially under the housing refused to come off and was unable to get any socket I had to fit on properly. I had bought 3 different 14mm sockets and was away to grind one down when the nice sealey rep gave me one to test and voilla! Nut off, now need to dremmel off the heat shields on my exhaust so I can access and remove the bolts holding it onto the engine. Hope to get my new coil over shocks next week - looking for a GB on BC's. (hint hint let me know if anyone spotted a GB) Went to the SIDC track day at Knockhill this week in the Bugeye and enjoyed myself to the point I have changed plans (again) with this car to do even more handling mods! Also gunna upgrade the rear disks/pads/calipers when I do the fronts. The Brembo's coped really well with a lot less fade than I was expecting! Decent pads/fluid and lines would have made a difference though. Plan for the next few weeks is to get her road legal and focus on handling, then look for the new ecu, turbo intake goodies and fuel system. Probably lots of painting too!

I got a skimmed flywheel from Wuz via the Aberdeen Scoobies forum and fitted that along with a new clutch last week. Hubs and brake components have been stripped, cleaned and preped ready for painting. I managed to borrow a big jack from my next door neighbour and Aberdeen Scoobies member Monty... BIG THANKS. Should also manage to get the gearbox back in tomorrow. Got the new turbo studs and fitted them in seconds, having the right part makes it easy lol. Decided to take off the side skirts and remove the spats, I like the cleaner look without them. Think I will need to get them prepped and painted as there are a few bits of paint missing. Will post some pics tomorrow after I get lots done!

Damn it! wrong threads! Not to worry will pop by T+C tomorrow and order some genuine ones up. Got to go pick up some other bits and bobs I ordered on Tuesday anyhoo. Removed the flywheel tonight as I have been advised to get it skimmed, hopefully get that done in the next few days. Got my POR15 paint in the post today so painted one wheel well and used the marine clean to prepare the hub carriers and parts of the brake calipers. Will attack the other side tomorrow and hopefully get some pics up! Noticed that the previous owner must have used a big hammer and a chisel to fit the ball joints so will need to replace them while I am at it.

Thanks Baz, I had tried that but it seemed too tight to me. Should they be a bitch to put in?

I do agree, I think the Ksport ones look like they would do the job. The budget I origionally set for all this has now gone out the window. If you are gunna do something do it properly I always say. Lets see what arrives in the post today. Waiting for a message back from a certain person too to see what I should do about my clutch. I had bought a second hand one that had little wear but its not looking that great so waiting for a second opinion. May have to just order a new kit..

Still seems like all I do is remove bits now. Gearbox is removed, clutch is removed, front hubs, front drive shafts, inner wings also removed. I have cleaned the wheel arches and inner wings etc and will mask them once dry to be ready for painting. Cant decide what to do with the brake calipers though, refeb or replace? Or do a quick paint for just now then wait and get new ones? Decided on BC coilovers for now - anyone selling a set? Also removed the final stuck stud from the turbo. Hopefully put the new ones in tomorrow if I figure out how..........

Thanks! ordered the six pack and the metal ready spray to go with it. Off to buy some gloves!

More parts coming off today, cant wait to actually start putting things back together! Seems everything that comes off I want to either paint or recondition. It will be worth it in the end. After searching the web I have found out how to put the studs back into my turbo, I am going to attempt this later. Also going to try and remove the box again! Hopefully some pics up later.

What particular POR15 product you using and where you get it from?

Today at work I ordered new brake pads, brake fluid, stainless brake lines and some of that lovely POR 15 paint that I have heard so much about. When I got home I decided after a 14 hour day at work that I did not want to do any more programing so I decided to do a bit of work on the car instead. I removed the front brake calipers, suspention, disks and brake lines to give me some space to paint the wheel wells and install my new parts. I am going to fit new stainless lines and give the calipers a service and paint too. I also intend to fit some coilovers but cant decide what to go for. A few friends of mine have got some of those D2 coilovers from ebay and swear by them. Any thoughts? Ohh forgot to mention that I recieved a stud extractor set in the post today so used that to remove the ****ty old damaged one. Easy with the right tools! ************ Whats the best way to put a new stud in? ***********

I tend to prototype with an arduino before making a custom PCB and PIC chip to make it all so much smaller - and cheaper lol. If you need a hand with any programming just ask.

LOL, I like your thinking but had already thought of that. Security is a major concern to me. IF someone were to gain access to MY iPhone they would first have to unlock the phone by knowing my 8 digit pin number (car keys dont have codes). However there is a 5 minute delay on that so supposing someone was to grab my phone from me knowing that my car had this system installed then selected the control app and went to start the car or open it they would have to punch in another code. Additionally the wifi network will not be in public broadcast mode so could not be searched for. However, if someone was able to guess the network ssid, channel and security details they would be foiled as I the system checks the mac address of the iPhone to make sure its me. I am using an opensource communication protocol that anyone could download to their iPhone however they would need to know the vairable names I have set on the microprocessor for it to work. So from this point it is VERY secure, a theif would be better using their phone to smash the window and try their luck that way. Although congratulations they now have their picture being emailed to the local police!

Started putting together a few of the new electrical parts last night. Got the router up and running/broadcasting and talking with my iPhone just fine. Connected that up to an Arduino programable microprocessor with an ethernet board/shield. Again got that talking to the router just fine. I started to write a few test programs to see just how usable the iphone controls would be and the speed/delay of the system. I tested the system up to 80m and because of the high gain ariel all seemed fine. There was no noticable delay at any range or with any button/function combination. This got me thinking! Obviously arming/disarming the alarm, starting the engine, honking the horn, flashing the lights would be really cool and quite easy but what about reving the engine! I need to think why apart from the cool factor I would want to do this and what would be the best way. I do not want this to interfere with the cars throttle response during normal operation or perhaps even cause safety concerns with it jamming open! I think I maybe watch way too much mythbusters! New turbo studs came today to replace the old damages ones. May fit them tonight if I can persuade the old ones to come out. Should I copperslip or grease them?

Lol - no worries

The programing part for me is the easy bit. All the electrical stuff I am also fine with, The bit I am having a hard time with is the engine bay. Whilst I do understand how everything works its all these sensors and breathers/vacum tubes that I need to get my head around.

Bit bored at work right now so thought I would write up the spec for the carPc and what I plan to do with it all. I had started with a Intel based board but swopped this out for another I had at work. The new carPC is a micro ATX AMD based system running a Athlon II X2 250 3.0GHz SKT AM3 CPU with 4GB of 800mz DDR2 RAM, 2 motherboard LAN ports and a 320GIG laptop sized hard drive. At present the system runs a chopped and severely modified version of windows XP, this was to get the bootup time to under 10 seconds! The hard drive is far to big for its purpose and will be getting changed to a Kingston solid state 64GIG drive. This will have faster read/write speeds of about 200mb/sec and will help with improving the boot up time and will not be effected by bumps like a traditional drive is. I could have gone for a faster processor but was a bit worried about the amount of heat it would produce and the power it would consume. The new AMD draws just 65w. To power the pc, usb hub and toutch screen monitor I have a Carnetix CNX-P2140 Dual Output 185W Intelligent Power Regulator. This connects directly to the battery via an inline fuse and takes a feed from the ignition to sense when the ignition is on. I have this set up to start the pc wait 5 seconds and then start the monitor when the car ignition is on. The power supply constantly monitors the cars battery level and will auto shut down the car pc if this gets to a user defined lower power level. When the ignition is turned off the car pc will go to sleep for 30 minutes before fully shutting down, this is incase you are fueling up or just popping into the shops or dare I say stall. Nothing worse then having to wait for the system to start up every time you just nip out. At present I do not have a CD drive in the car but intend to have a disk drive and usb/card reader built into the dash where the radio is currently located. Thats pretty much it for the actual car pc. I want to upgrade to windows 7 when I manage to get the time to minimise an installation, there are other operating systems available to me and some specifically built for car pc's but being in the it industry its handy to be able to run other programs from the car in a windows enviroment. Thats not by any means it for the tech stuff in the car! I am at present making a power supply and modified router to put into the boot or behind the glove box to provide a constant wifi signal. I will be mounting a high gain wi-fi arial where the pop up radio arial is as I no longer use the radio. This is the first step in the new car control system I am building/writing as the current one is a bit basic.......... more of that later. The goal is to have a car that can be started/stopped and viewed remotly. I also want it to take a picture every hour and update its own blog! Be interesting to see what a car does in a year. This system has a more practacle side however as it will also take a picture if it senses anyone nearby for any extended period of time. The car computer itself will be used for gps / data logging / music and internet. Better get back to work!

Looking great! I am doing alot of similar things to my classic at the moment and your thread is a great resource when things dont go my way. Your pics have been a constant reference when I need to figure out where hoses go etc. Dont suppose you are selling your old inlet trumpet are you? If so can I have first dibs please.

Ta Iain Is this carbon canister a required part? if not what harm would removing it do? any advice? Yup thats the bit! kinda wished I had done the engine out method now but I had been advised by a few people that the gearbox removal method was easier. Guess you live and learn. There will be many more questions to come!

Took a look over the suspension and brakes this afternoon to see what needed replacing/upgrading/reconditioning. Brake calipers seem fine but pads and hoses could do with being changed. I also want to take this opertunity to clean and paint the wheel wells and calipers. I knew that the springs had a bit of rust on them as there was an advisory on the last MOT but was not expecting this: I think that I will use this as an excuse to upgrade to coilovers, one of the seals is also blown so it seems the sensible thing to do. Can anyone tell me what this round filter like thing does, I have not seen one in anyone elses engine bay pics:

2KG Radiator 12KG compressor 700g Filter looking thing 500-1KG pipes Lets say 15KG in total so far. Not to mention the power it saps from the engine!

Gunna remove them later today and see what it looks like. I noticed one has a small crack in it anyway. Had a busy week working on the car, removed the Air Con system to remove weight and give me a bit more room in the engine bay. I put the parts on Ebay but guess I aimed a bit high, only sold 2 out of 4 parts. I then started on the clutch change. I removed the intercooler. Then the battery, I will be cleaning this area up before I put it all back together. Thinking of moving to a smaller gell battery or two with a dual charge system to help with all the computer systems that I will be installing. Another option is to put them in the boot? Then put a oil catch system where the battery is at present. I then removed the starter, gearbox stabaliser and the clutch cylinder. Next I moved onto the downpipe, unfortunatly the most inacessable nut on the turbo decided not to come off and eventually became rounded. I used a nut splitter to remove it because of its position, I will replace the stud as this had a few damaged threads. With the downpipe removed I was able to remove the prop shaft and central bearing. This gave me access to disconnect the gear linkage. At this point I remembered from my instructions to remove the thrust bearing pin. I tried to pull the gearbox back on a trolly jack but this was just not happening by myself so will have to wait till later in the week when I can get a hand from a friend.