supremeweb

After a quick look this morning I think that its just over fueling! Phew! Did not want to have to take the heads off at this point as I want to get stuck in with my new build.

I use Godspeed disks and pads on the back with godspeed disks and either DS3500 on the front or godspeed kevlar. Cant quibble at the price, the next day delivery or the quality!

Had a look last week and cant see any cut resistor and there is a space where a chip could go. Leads me to think that it is a mines ECU. Anyway, I have decided on the replacement ECU now and will be going with a link G4 Extreme. Its spec list is quite complete and it can be used on pretty much any engine with up to 8 cylinders and 16 injectors! Time to do some shopping around, will need to get some injectors, wide band lambda bosch knock sensor and MAP sensor at the same time. Spent this week relocating the battery and water bottle to the boot, used 0 Gauge wire just to be sure. Did a test fit and all works well. Now just need to paint up the custom brackets I made and wait until the boot is painted to mount it all permanantly. Today I removed all of the sound deadening in the rear half of the car in super quick time. I also gave the car new oil and filter. I think something is up though as it looks like I have oil coming through to the exhaust. Makes me think I have either a goosed turbo or leaking stem seals. Will nip the turbo off this week and take a peek. I am looking for another set of heads to get ready for my next engine build also need a CDB so if anyone has either please let me know.

reqar arch is part of the main shell. You can cut it out and weld in a new part. Most people tend to have it repaired however as its way cheaper.

What he said!

300 out of a tank! I wish! best I have EVER had was 200!

Great pics! nice to see.

Thank fook I paid extra for a single room!

I buy canon every time.

Think that's the way forward and if I get a major sized hole(oooh eeer) then I am sure someone will have a spare I can borrow. Non yet but looking at cutting out the whole boot floor and replacing with a sheet of either carbon fiber or alloy. I plan on fitting a huge diffuser thingy eventually (not before fling).

I find many people saying that it can be reversed but no definative instructions or reasons. I think I will reverse it or get another ecu(anyone got one?). Might explain the overfueling and high emissions. Spent tonight sanding down my dash and using a little bit of bondo on the low bits. Will do a bit more work on that tomorrow and hopefully get it ready for a test fit. Carl Davey popped over tonight with a set of injector seals and spacers as I had lost one of the spacers that sit below the filter. Got that fitted and topped up fluids ready for a test start tomorrow. Had another look at the wiring and decided its probably best to put the battery in the boot now. I have some 4guage audio cable but need to check if its up to the job before I go any further. Research time!

Anyone going to have room for my spare wheel?

What year/model, there are a few on ebay just now from £30-75

I found this when I first drove the Bugeye. I find holding the power through the corner really helps with this though. My Classic does not have this issue at all as it has had a fair bit done to the suspension geo etc. Coilovers, drop links and sway bars with proper geo setup!

The UPS is connected to a small 12v SLA battery and takes a power feed from the cars battery. If I turn on the car computer without the engine on the UPS senses that the input voltage is less than 13v so uses the smaller battery to power the computer. Once the car is started it senses the voltage is above 13v so runs from the car battery and charges the SLA battery. What makes it really trick is I have set it up to start up when the cars ignition is on and then if the cars ignition is switched off the computer will go into standby mode. It will stay in standby mode for 15 minutes, if you return and turn the ignition back on it will wake up, if you are longer than 15 minutes it will do a full shut down. If the ignition is off and the SLA battery is lower than 10.5 volts the car computer will also shut down. The cars battery is not sufficient as just a few start/stops around town is enough to cause issues. When testing this I had to carry a spare battery and jump leads.

Had some free time today so decided to make a bracket to hold the computer in place and work out the wiring for the UPS (uninteruptable power supply). I also had a look into relocating the main battery to the boot. Think I will make a custom loom for the engine bay from 300A 2gauge wiring and a 3way distribution block. Anyone else done this? Hope to get the dash finished and painted this week so I can test out the computer. Here are some pics for now:

Happy birthday chief.

can either of them read live engine data or log?

Over the last few weeks I have been working on the interior of the car removing as much as possible. All carpet and trim has been removed as well as sound deadening that had been added to the doors. The doors will be replaced with either carbon or fiberglass when I get it caged. Dash removed to get to the heater and a/c parts. Fair bit of weight when you add it all up. I then had to decide on dash, I made a mould of the origional one and started to plan my additions/changes. Initial plan was to make the whole thing from fiberglass and then have it flocked. The first one I made looked good but needed many strengthening changes to be made and lots of additional supports to be added. Its total weight was just too much. I then took a look at the origional dash, I removed its foamy pleathery coating and was left with a quite light base to work with. I made some modifications to this and added a recessed screen holder for my touch screen. The plan is to eventually have two large screens on the left and a smaller one on the right. These will display live engine data, maps, itunes, shift lights or anything else I need/program. Going to crinkle coat it matt black so I can respray it if I make any changes later down the line. While I was removing the sound deadening I noticed my ECU says "mines" on it, can anyone shed any light on this. Is this an upgrade?

Anyone near you with ecu reading/logging software. Does the light stay on when you start the engine or ONLY when full beans in 5th? Check all vac hoses are present and correct and not perished.

I had to rebuild my engine after it lost compression and refused to start when warm. This was a few months ago now and the engine has now been run in. This was my first engine rebuild, did a few things wrong, did a few right but learnt a LOT! Engine coming out Blaock halfs stripped painted and baked in the oven Block halfs put back together with all new ACL bearings, genuine gaskets and seals, newage rods, new rings and skimmed flywheel with new Exceedy clutch. Heads were stripped inspected and rebuilt with new valve seals. Valves seats were reground I made a basic holder to keep valves in the right order while they were cleaned I also took the oppertunity to port and polish the heads The intake manifold got ported but not polished and was treated to a new coat of paint. Fuel rails got chopped and I did the parallel fuel mod as I had purchased an Aeromotive FPR Engine going back together And the engine back in Started first time! But made a ticking noise, turned out I had managed to trap the thin inspection plate that is under the clutch between the block and the gearbox Straightened out the plate and refitted the engine. Started and drove well! But it was leaking oil, after a fair bit of shouting and peering around the engine bay I found where it was coming from! Had to take the engine out again as oil was leeking from behind the clutch. It was the plastic plate. This got replaced and I dropped the engine in again. So with all this practice I am pretty quick at getting the engine in/out now!

Black smoke is too much fuel, white is water and blue is burning oil. Usually. So yes it could be rings, try a compression test to see.

Keith Michaels gave me a fantastic deal on my renewal. Give them a call, they do SIDC discount.

I have done the roofs of a few nissans. It really is easy. I put it on then cut off the excess with a very sharp scalpel. With the nissans we had to put it on in two strips, cant see the joins like. If you do decide to do it make sure you get medium tack vinyl and change it every two years as it will take the lacquer off your car if you don't.

I have an imported v2 classic and can honestly say it has had no affect to my on insurance costs. MPG whats that when u drive a turbo lol. My car has no rust and was in great condition when I bought it, I would buy a Jap import again.