euan_r

i wonder what a detango would look like.

agree with scooby222 wondering if there is enough indicator showing. could not be bothered with any problems that may ensue with police myself.

speaking of being tight, i had a thought last night. grind down second completely and block shift. who needs second anyway?

dont think a water pump is that common a failure. depends how close you are to him to take a look. a sniff test would be a must for me now that hes mentioned overheating.

this mean youve finally found something you cant fix with an angle grinder and baler twine min?

the drive damaged gear appears to be part of one unit which consists of shaft itself and drive gears of first,second,third and reverse. so unlikely to get replacement to be worth while fixing. will just get other box.

having said that i could build it up with weld then shape metal using a small grinder. think this would work?

i dont think a complete tear down manual exists (may be wrong). there is information avaliable on different sections engine, brakes, suspension, transmission but no one stop shop. scoobynet is good for technical stuff i find.

we could be more usefull when it comes to a specific task.

what information are you looking for first. are you making rolling chassis first?

also is car going to be standard and are you fitting original phase engine etc into it. you could end up with a bit of a diy job on wiring loom if trying to mix and match ecu, loom and engine.

lol was a bit harder than last time but did my best to behave.

thinking about it now it did jumped out of second at alford mid corner, wonder if it was stressed then.

Yeouch! that's a little nasty! What were you doing to cause that!

Little worrying if it happened without warning...

going to shops sedatly. car hasnt been used much for a few weeks

Crunch bang, I would imagine you can source the damaged bits and replace them...(PPG gearkit)

for the price of ppg i could buy another classic min

i was expecting everything to be mullerd but damage seems pretty contained.

well i broke my box and investigated it today.

this is what i found, general box

missing teeth

front diff

the shinny bits is just the flash bouncing off the oil. obviously everything needs a good clean.

the diffs all look ok (to me) its just that gear combination of driven/drove thats damaged.

can these be replaced individually? box worked fine with no noises before.

im going to get replacement box tomorrow but would this be fixable for a spare?, cars pretty standard

i usually go to glenburgie but hes off today on his holidays for a week or so.

very nice canny beat good tools and a proper place for them.

what turned out to be the issue at boyndie btw?

lot 14 looks interesting

nice find col.

herd a while back the main mechanic walked out leaving customers cars in bits. never thought this would happen though.

pat could be good sometimes and off the next.

cars very over priced, which i expected because cars were supposed to be high quality. i looked at a few when i wrote of my last and was not impressed, he started knocking £500 of the price before i even spoke.

thourghly enjoyed the day, saw a few moments but no crashes.

plenty of sideways action though and a dougnut fae block after mucking hairpin up

shame for all those who camped out at last stage.

nae pics, as i was concentating on spectating.

not the best but all i have on my computer just now after reformat.

eibachs with new std dampers. i may have had boot loaded up, canny mind

love a good project thread. cars looking a lot tidier underneath . been there with rear suspension and snapped off captive nut whilst removing rear subframe.

ive rebuilt quite a few now.

easiest think is block the good pistons and use cars brake system to pump out sticky one (could always remove dust boot and squirt wd40 down night before as well if its really stuck).

putting in new seals is easy after that. you can order single pistons online too if required. touch of red rubber grease is important too.

most annoying task would be painting them IMO. i painted mine in the kitchen when the coast was clear. its only when i noticed the soles of my feet were red i knew i was in trouble. vht paint really stinks in the oven too. the dishwasher also cleaned them up ok but i would just stop at wire brush stage next time.

std clutch £150 labour to fit should be about £150

full timing kit about £200 for late classics including tensioner

full timing kit about £150 for early classics with tensioner bearing but without ram.

usually just need belt though about £50 for gates, others cheaper.

a full kit is not the be and end all though as there are other parts in vacinity. water pump,front crank seal and possibly oil pump if you wanted to go the whole hog.

edit: if you remove radiator for access there is also change of coolant to add on to price.

no, i removed box. it can be done both ways, i read quite a lot about it before starting. i presumed box is lighter than engine as i dont have hoist.

i have heard some profesionals can do it by just sliding and tilting engine and can do clutch change very quickly.

i prefered to take my time and do it with plenty of access the first time.

done both.

clutch is not that difficult just takes a while to remove everything to get in about it and box is reasonably heavy.

dont do timing if your not confident as it will cost big time if you dont get it right. i removed radiator for more room. i found the lower left hand cam poised to spin given the opportunity.

warranty, sell it, buy classic

nice to see you got it sold tommo, surprised it took so long.

need a few more local shows next year given polishing standards in moray.

amazing, not only that but most times you order a part here they dont have it in stock either.

i think if you replace front to standard whilst leaving rear uprated, the car will be more oversteery. thats my uderstanding of it anyways, could be wrong.

what size bars did you get fitted front and rear and were any of them adjustable ones?